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2013 Sonata Belt & coolant change

10K views 39 replies 17 participants last post by  Hueydriver 
#1 ·
I am @ 83,000 kilometers which is roughly 52,000 miles...

I am all set to change coolant in my car & change serpentine belt.....

The question is, am i doing these things too early?

Belt looks good and there is no issue @ all.....how long can i wait before it needs to be done?

It is exactly 4 years from purchase date by original owner, i have it since November 2014....purchased @ 71,000 kilometers....

No issue whatsoever with this car....

On coolant change, is it OK to extract old coolant with a siphon i have and drain last bit from drain valve, and wash it away with a hose.

I just want to do " drain & fill "......coolant looks very fresh & clean.....its only 4 years in use.....

Do not have facility to take the engine shield off, or else i have to pay someone to hoist to do drain & fill, already purchased Zerex Asian coolant 2 jugs.....

Belt will be purchased by me, looking @ Dayco serpentine belt 5060840 or Bando 6PK2135...will pay someone to install it for me....

Any feedback will be appreciated.....
 
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#2 ·
Coolant is good to change now, think the maintenance schedule calls for 60K anyways?

Belt - if you're not seeing any visible cracking then I'd hold off for now. I would say change around 80K if you don't notice any cracking before hand. Mine had visible wear and was starting to crack around 75K.

With the coolant, the environmentalist in me will say to please have someone else do it if you can't properly drain it and dispose of it in a safe manner. Coolant is very toxic to animals and animals love it because of its sweet odor. It is also illegal in some states to dump down storm drains.
 
#3 ·
Thanks for your feedback regarding belt, very helpful.

I was planning to siphon coolant in a container and dispose off properly.

By opening drain valve, i may be looking @ 2% leftover......that is what i cannot capture in container, it will be splashed on shield, have no choice but to wash the shield.
 
#5 ·
Zerex is 50/50 mix and it says for use in Toyota, Honda, Nissan, Hyundai & others in Front......

Silicate free & phosphated HOAT chemistry

5 year and 150,000 mile warranty

This what Hyundai antifreeze states, except its not diluted.
 
#9 ·
I changed my belt around 65,000 miles even though it didnt show any bad wear, i did it myself and it was a little tricky but i got it done.

thanks
pat
 
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#16 ·
Be careful here - very careful here ...

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/y2-ef-1989-2005-sonata/499073-any-certain-anti-freeze.html#post4518482

The OEM anti-freeze that Hyundai uses during the warranty is essentially Zerex Asian - that is available in red or blue and either is acceptable - even mixed if you know the age and quality of the coolant. (I agree blue is preferable so you don't end up with brown). Toyota/Pentosin Red/Pink would be fine also as would Honda/Mazda Blue or Motorcraft specialty dark green.

After the warranty, Hyundai really recommends that you use old-school green (hard to find - O'Reilly still sells it) and draining and re-filling every 2-years and 24K miles. I would think it would be okay to use Zerex Asian beyond the warranty also if you wanted to, but that isn't what HMC recommends.

I would definitely avoid Dexcool, Prestone all-makes/models/colors or anything else with 2-EHA in it. Especially avoid mixing it with existing coolant, but I wouldn't flush and run it either.

G-05 (yellow/Gold) is not recommended during the warranty - it would PROBABLY be okay after that, but it isn't recommended and has no advantage over Zerex Asian - unless you happened to have some of it and wanted to use it up, and even then I wouldn't recommend it.
 
#18 ·
I'm somewhat disappointed in the way Hyundai handles this ...

At least for the 2016 Accent ...

Use high quality ethylene glycol
coolant
Your vehicle is delivered with high quality
ethylene glycol coolant in the cooling
system. It is the only type of coolant that
should be used because it helps prevent
corrosion in the cooling system, lubricates
the water pump and prevents
freezing. Be sure to replace or replenish
your coolant in accordance with the
maintenance schedule in section 7.
Before winter, have your coolant tested to
assure that its freezing point is sufficient
for the temperatures anticipated during
the winter.


Replace coolant (First, 120,000 miles (192,000 km) or 120 months
after every 30,000 miles (48,000 km) or 24 months)


Recommended engine coolant
• When adding coolant, use only deionized
water or soft water for your vehicle
and never mix hard water in the
coolant filled at the factory. An improper
coolant mixture can result in serious
malfunction or engine damage.
• The engine in your vehicle has aluminum
engine parts and must be protected by
an ethylene-glycol-based coolant to prevent
corrosion and freezing.


Coolant 4.7 US qt. (5.3 l)
Mixture of antifreeze and water (Ethylene glycol base
coolant for aluminum radiator)

Okay - everything except Sierra and similar which is propylene glycol is ethylene glycol based.
Everything works for aluminum radiators. Old-school green is the only thing that can be used in brass radiators, but there is nothing that says old-school green should be used in Hyundai.

Zerex Asian lists that it meets a Hyundai spec, but nothing in the manual calls out a Hyundai spec - however, no other Zerex lists a Hyundai spec, so presumably that is the correct antifreeze for most Hyundai's.

Nothing really says you use old-school green after the warranty, but @sbr711 works at a Hyundai dealer and he says that is what they use - and they matches pretty well with the 2-year/30K mile change interval.

Nothing really says you can't use old-school green before the warranty - except that there is no way that old-school IAT is good for 10-years or 120K miles.

 
#20 ·
I also considered buying a Corolla and this is very similar to the 10K OCI interval discussions on there - i.e. "Do you or do you not know more than the automobile manufacturer?"

I'm also not the best source of info as I only have 1500 miles on my car and a couple of months of ownership ...

In this case, there are three main issues: (I am speaking about the USA Accent, verify in the owner's manual for the Canadian Sonata):

  • The recommended initial change interval is 10-years and 120K miles. Seems a bit generous - do you trust that? I will probably have about 80K miles on the car at 10-years and will probably change it then - or I might change it at 8-years or so. (And in reality, there is a good chance that I will have a thermostat or hose fail before then and will change it then.)
  • After the initial change, the recommended interval is 2-years or 30K miles. It doesn't specify, but @sbr711 has said they are using non-long life old-school green and that is around the correct interval for that. Good chance I will do that as well - I'm comfortable with it, but in theory, if you continued to run a long-life (Zerex Asian) coolant, it SHOULD be good for 5-years/50K miles from the last change. (I think the Toyota interval was something like 100K for the first change and every 50K thereafter, not that that means anything to Hyundai.
  • Warranty coverage - i.e. it hardly matters if you follow the recommended schedule or close to it - i.e. if I did the first change at 8-years, I would only have the powertrain warranty left and only have two years left on it, so whatever I do is out of warranty - but like you - let's say I change the coolant at 4-years and 50K miles, but I use Zerex Asian. Does that count as the first change that wasn't supposed to happen until 10-years? If so, the OM says I am supposed to change at 2-years or 30K miles whether I used extended life coolant or not. Now, if I run 3-years after that coolant change (well within the limits for extended life) and the engine blows up at 8-years of ownership - can Hyundai deny the claim b/c I didn't change the coolant after 2-years from the first change - technically, yes, they can.
BTW - before it looks like I love Toyota and hate Hyundai - Toyco has some odd wording on their OM also - basically - "If 0W-20 oil is used, the OCI is 10K miles. If 0W-20 oil is not available, other oil may be used, but 0W-20 must be used again after 5K miles." Problems:


The intent is REALLY that I can go 10K miles on synthetic and 5K miles on dino - but that isn't what it says ...


Technically, 0W-20 is always synthetic, so that isn't a problem. However - if I want to run 0W-30 or 5W-20 or 5W-30 full synthetic - according to the manual, I still have a 5K OCI with that. And according to that, I can't run dino oil with a 5K interval - I can do it once and then switch back to 0W-20, and presumably then run dino every OTHER oil change. And technically, I can't run ANYTHING else if I have the OPTION (availability) to buy 0W-20. And the last most confusing one - technically, if I can't find 0W-20, I can run 5W-20 for 5K miles, but then I have to run 0W-20 - so if I couldn't find it 5K miles ago and I still can't find it now, I have to park the car until I can get some 0W-20 from Amazon or E-bay or similar.
 
#21 ·
How much coolant will the Sonata take on a drain and fill? Amsoil makes great fluids. Their coolant is good for 5 years or 150,000 miles and are compatible with all ethylene and propylene antifreeze and coolant colors.
 
#22 ·
Here is my take on the whole coolant thing. After a bit of research a few years back I decided on Zerex Asian coolant for both my Hyundai and Nissan vehicles. Initial batch of coolant should be changed at 5/60 for a normally driven car. The Zerex is good for another 5/60 after that. High mileage guys can go more miles based on climate.

My process is to first flush with several gallons of distilled water. Next fill with distilled and run around the neighborhood to bring engine up to temp. Finally run another gallon or two of distilled thru the system and fill with Zerex. Simply buy two jugs of premixed Zerex and use about one and a half in most vehicles.
 
#26 ·
That's basically what research I did on the subject lead me to believe as well. I'm all for changing it at the 5/60 interval as I was one of the "unlucky" masses that had a GM Dexcool disaster (trashed a good engine due to it) in a 2000 GMC Jimmy 4x4 some years back. I'll never own a GM vehicle again over that.
 
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#23 ·
I dumped the Dex-Cool in my FREE ride and filled it with Hyundai Life.. Iron block, aluminum heads, Harrison Radiator...

Got 4 or 6 old school Toyota Red sitting in garage,, sweet stuff, no bitter add.... Put Hyundai Long Life in the Toyota too when I went through it and put back together,, iron block, aluminum head, aluminum radiator..

Dont get all worked up in the Aisian - Zerex thing,, I more concerned with coolant & anti-freeze aspect of it
 
#27 ·
Ordered Dayco 5060840 serpentine belt through Amazon.ca, they reduced the price to $38.55plus tax of $5.01 = $43.56

Going to Connecticut in 2 weeks, will change belt there by a family mechanic.

Coolant change to be done @ 60,000 miles or 5 years which is 11 months from now.

Currently I am @ 82,300 kilometers or 51438 miles.

Trip to CT will add 1000 kilometers or 600 miles.
 
#29 ·
Thanks for Pentosin info.

In Canada, Canadian Tire carries that coolant, it is on sale this week till Thursday @ 15% off, cheaper than US price.

I already purchased 2 jugs of Zerex Asian, states good for Hyundai, but in Canada only Red color is sold.

When I change it, I will flush it with distilled water, to ensure green is gone completely.
 
#33 ·
So today I decided to do coolant flush and fill.

It took me 5 hours to do it properly.

First drained Green coolant.

Started flush with half gallon distilled water waited for it to drain,then added another half gallon to drain radiator.

Repeated this step in same order.

3rd gallon was poured to fill radiator only 3/4 gallon to fill,started engine for 15 minutes drive in neighbourhood, drained distilled water again.


Poured 2 set of half gallon distilled water, drained each time and clear water came out,total 16 litres of distilled water was used to flush green coolant to clear water.

Filled radiator and reservoir with Zerex Asian, started engine with heater @ high, started to purge air by squeezing hose.

After 15 minutes shut the engine off.

Checked after 2 hours reservoir was down little bit, so filled it to high again.

For my car,was surprised that I used only 1 gallon of Zerex Asian so far,have another unused gallon IF i need it.

My car flush and fill was done @ 82,300 kilometers.

Car has been in use for 4 years and 1 month, I bought previous rental @ 71,100 kilometers in November 2014.
 
#34 ·
Holy zombie thread Batman!

I'm at just over 100k miles and looking to change my coolant. How much will the distilled water deluge the 50/50 mix when you drain the radiator and tank? I'm not looking to really mess with straight coolant and ratios and seems like there's not much in the engine that's going to throw off the mix that much, is that correct?
 
#36 · (Edited)
I've got the same question.

I did a flush at 79,000 miles. I drained the coolant and flushed the radiator twice with distilled water (Running the car after each fill with distilled water). I re-filled with 50:50 hyundai coolant to water ratio.

Second time I just did a drain and re-fill at 123,000 miles with 60:40 Hyundai coolant to water ratio.

Now approaching 150,000 miles - should I just re-fill with 60:40 again? I should probably test my coolant with a hydrometer.
 
#37 ·
Most of the time if the tensioner is bad it will always make noise any time the engine is running.

It takes 2 minutes to be sure and check it. You only need to have a 17mm wench (easier if it is a straight box end "0" degree) and take the tension off the pulley and spin it. if it is bad you will hear it or feel it as loose.

After market (Rock Auto and others) and Hyundai sell just the pulley/ tensioner instead of replacing the complete assembly. Hyundai pulley/ tensioner $ 169 complete assembly $ 260, Rock Auto gates pulley/tensioner $ 89.
 
#38 ·
I still have the original belt 106,500 miles 8.5 years old and still looks good. Changing the coolent is is pain because you cannot get close to all the coolant out. It takes about 3 drain and fills just to get the water clear. It is much simpler to drain and fill with new coolant 3 times and should take less than 2 gallons.
 
#39 ·
I still have the original belt 106,500 miles 8.5 years old and still looks good.
I changed mine at 95,000. I thought it looked good but decided to change it due to miles to be safe, esaier to change it on my terms then on the side of the road.

When I got it off it looked good until I turned it inside out and flexed it and then I saw it had a lot of tiny cracking throughout the belt.
 
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