DTC Description state
P0705 transmission range sensor circuit malfunction History
I have done some google search on the above diagnostic trouble code P0705 and as i understood , it indicates that the Engine Control Module (ECM) has received an input error from the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS).
(correct me if i am wrong)....and since the check engine light illuminated two times (two separate occasion) then it turns off now; the ECM is actually receiving input signal from the TRS .
So that leads me to think that the TRS is actually working but the problem might be one of the following two:
1- Open or short in the TRS circuit?
2- Dirty transmission fluid.
What do you think the steps i should do first of all ? how would i check the transmission fluid since my vehicle has no transmission fluid dipstick. My driving condition would fall into "severe" category and it reached 60,000 miles now ...
Is your dash display showing the proper gear? Are your lights next to the shifter lighting up like they're supposed to? Seems like these are the most common symptoms I've read about with the range inhibitor.
No! the dash display doesn't show the proper gear ..also the lights next to the shifter are not lighting up properly ...but guess what ... it is not always the case ... i mean they do work properly most of the time ! just occasionally...what do u think?
The part you is looking for is called "inhibitor switch",, part of it function is to feed back to PCM the selector shaft/shifter position so TCM knows what course of action to follow..
Dirty fluid is not an input to PCM
Replace the Inhibitor switch, align it proper using 5mm pin or bolt,, clear DTC and ideally reset adaptive learn in case TCM learn bad habit due to bum switch
The part you is looking for is called "inhibitor switch",, part of it function is to feed back to PCM the selector shaft/shifter position so TCM knows what course of action to follow..
Dirty fluid is not an input to PCM
Replace the Inhibitor switch, align it proper using 5mm pin or bolt,, clear DTC and ideally reset adaptive learn in case TCM learn bad habit due to bum switch
So this is what my car inhibitor switch looks like... ..
I think i have not described the problem clearly .. i have to add that while my dash display doesn't show the proper gear, and the lights next to the shifter doesn't light up , the transmission shifts very hard (clunk) into reverse and drive from park (or from R to D ...)
my car is with 60K miles on.. do u think i should change the transmission fluid first and then check if the problem occurs again? ... because it doesn't happen all the time ...only occasionally ...
I've got a 2014 Elantra gt hatchback bought new in September 2014. The issues you're listed here I have them as well!
I've been to 2 different Hyundai dealers with theses issues and none of them got the problem fixed.
Here is a general idea of the problems. When starting up the car, we want to back out of our parking. We put in Revers, when we want to go in Drive the car will jump (with a tock sound) into Drive and the dashboard will then loose all indication of the gear were in and the check engine will light up. We will then put in Park and the car will get stuck in Park. Shifter will no longer move. Only way to move shifter out of Park is to shut the motor off and restart the car. Then the next day the car will be fine. No more check engine etc. Until another moment when all the problems come back.
The Transmission Range sensor (inhibitor switch) has been changed. Problems all came back 24 hours after leaving garage.
I've got a 2014 Elantra gt hatchback bought new in September 2014. The issues you're listed here I have them as well!
I've been to 2 different Hyundai dealers with theses issues and none of them got the problem fixed.
Here is a general idea of the problems. When starting up the car, we want to back out of our parking. We put in Revers, when we want to go in Drive the car will jump (with a tock sound) into Drive and the dashboard will then loose all indication of the gear were in and the check engine will light up. We will then put in Park and the car will get stuck in Park. Shifter will no longer move. Only way to move shifter out of Park is to shut the motor off and restart the car. Then the next day the car will be fine. No more check engine etc. Until another moment when all the problems come back.
The Transmission Range sensor (inhibitor switch) has been changed. Problems all came back 24 hours after leaving garage.
I have a hyundai genesis 2015 seem like it lose power but still on while driving and when i park and turn off the car it wouldn't start again till I to the battery and touch the wire starts right up car will be fine for a day or 2 and do the same thing
I have same symptoms in my Sonata YF 2014 68k miles.
When I turn engine on in the morning SOMETIME I have no illumination near Shifter so I can't switch to R or D. When I shut the motor off and restart the car it starts work correctly. Sometimes I need to restart car several times. Also I have sometime check engine sigh in dashboard.
It happens only in the morning( cold car?) and never returns in the day( when car is warm). I have no other problems with automatic transmission except this.
I read errors and I have P0705 in transmissions and no errors in engine section.
Should I replace SWITCH-INHIBITOR (42700-3B700 ) or not?
The disappearing gear indicator, hard thunk when first driving off and intermittent CEL are the same symptoms I had when my transmission inhibitor switch, or neutral safety switch, went bad. DIY'd this repair and it wasnt too difficult. Trickiest part was getting the stuck on bolt holding switch to transmission off and aligning the shift cable properly.
I was lucky to get the Hyundai TSB for this repair, and there may be 2 possible part #s (at least for my 2013 2.0T). See attached PDF for TSB.
Hi, I have 2011 Santa Fe limited V6 AWD. My car has a gear shifter problem and the car would not go into drive. I would have to tap on the shifter while in neutral to put it into drive. Any suggestions, I have replaced the gear shifter floor assembly and the cable feels not binding. Do I just move the nut on the selector arm. My mechanic did some repairs earlier and said he replaced the neutral safety switch but the fix only lasted a couple of weeks. Any suggestions
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