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rubber steering couple DIY??

144K views 259 replies 87 participants last post by  Itsameamario 
#1 ·
My steering wheel is clunking bad!! I hate the car more and more every time I drive it.

Has anyone successfully replaced the bushing coupler thingy?

I don't mind spending the time to do it. Are any special tools required?


I'll be damned if I'm going to give a dealer $350 to do this.


I wish someone would t-bone this POS car.




F**K YOU and your phoney warranty, Hyundai!! I hope you're reading this! Y'all still have a long way to go!

:)
 
#2 ·
my steering wheel is clunking bad!! I hate the car more and more every time i drive it.

Has anyone successfully replaced the bushing coupler thingy?

I don't mind spending the time to do it. Are any special tools required?


I'll be damned if i'm going to give a dealer $350 to do this.


I wish someone would t-bone this pos car.




F**k you and your phoney warranty, hyundai!! I hope you're reading this! Y'all still have a long way to go!

:)




i agree !!!
 
#6 ·
My father has a 2007 Camry which he purchased new and at 60k miles it started consuming oil. At 100,000k miles, it now burns 1qt every 1200 miles. Toyota says that's "normal consumption."

No Thanks.



An F-150 or RAM 1500 is more along the lines of what I want to go with next.

So no one has done the coupler?
 
#4 ·
I had the same problem, was told you had to recalibrate the steering, so I reluctantly took it and got the rubber coupling replaced. Costed me $669, steering is perfect again and enjoy driving the car again. Then I learned you don't have to recalibrate the steering if you just replacing the coupling.
 
#5 · (Edited)
I've read the TSB and it is not a DIY job. The m/h time is only 1.5 hours per the TSB for the YF but i don't see how it could be done that fast. Just getting the column out and then back in must take an hour. Plus the fact that this job is not done too frequently (YET) so the techs might screw something up worse than the original problem (yes i am a pessimist). Then you have to take the mechanism apart to get to the rubber donut (coupler). If we estimate 2.0 hours of labor and $10 for the part, aren't we at about $250 total for the job?

what am i missing?

The pdf is too large to upload. It does state that the ASP steering calibration is required after reinstallation.
 
#7 · (Edited)
The dealer replaced the coupling in our 2011 and it took about 1.5 hours total so their estimate is right on. It was done under warranty as the auto had about 32K at the time. It did fix the problem. They calibrated it too soft so I took it back and the steering was set to sport. Much better. I believe there are 4 or 5 possible settings for the 2011. Other years are different. Some have less settings.

You can open the TSB on steering coupling repair from a post by Tony. It tells how to do the job and why the shop is paid the amount charged. The coupling replacement TSB is the 1st one on the list.

Here is the post to view: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/yf-20...technical-service-bulletins-us-yf-sonata.html
 
#9 ·
It works, just checked it. Click on the link, it opens 12Tony list of TSB's. Then click on 1st TSB (YF steering noise TSB.pdf) and this will open link at bottom of page, click on it and TSB will open. Double check as I just checked and it works. No invalid PDF problem. You can view or print the TSB.
 
#10 ·
Take your time, it could be a DIY.. I did 1, but I think it was Elantra.. But as mcc17ss said, visit to dealer for steer angle reset and set to level of assist you desire while plugged in, figure 0.5 to 1.0 shop labor for use of GDS (depending on shop policy)..

You'll likely want an assistant to help remove column, and definitly help when re-install so you can star bolts
 
#20 ·
I'd do the same as you. Even though I do a lot of DIY which saves me a lot of money, it always takes me at least 5 times as long to do something I haven't done before. For $300, it would be worth it to me to get the job done faster and get rid of the irritating, noisy clunking. Plus, if they screw up something, it's their problem.
 
#12 ·
There was a poster on here (papayadialog) that did it himself and said he lost electronic steering after he replaced the coupler. The thread ended without him updating on possible trip to dealership to have it reset. I pm'd him a couple of days ago, but have not heard from him. I really want to replace my coupler, but am wondering how hard it will be to drive to dealership if I lose the electronic assist. My steering wheel clunks, but not bad enough for me to sink a few hundred dollars into it.
 
#13 ·
Is this the same thing that causes the column to rattle when driving over washboard surfaces? I don't hear any clunking when I turn my wheel, but I do hear rattling when I drive down my gravel driveway.
 
#135 · (Edited)
More like a soft click when I do that with my 2013 Limited
at 31,500 miles.

Also, when car is dead off, no key near it, I can turn steering
wheel 1/2 to 1" and the front wheels react with no delay.
guess changing my coupler would be futile at this point.
Maybe another 10,000 miles or so.

What i feel on the highway is more like an electrical impulse
pushing the wheel, from one side or from the other, against
my own will. I don't think this is a loose/worn rubber star
coupler.
 
#22 ·
Aint no harder than this,, this being a new unit going in from when the 2011 first came out and had the bolt tighten and program.. your unit will still have column lock on it and multi function switch attached, just unplug stuff to allow unit to come out as seen.. mark coupler at floor with something as reference to assemble joint back in same position..remove bolt and left coupler off top of rack' spool.. If I recall, it be 2 nut and 2 bolt holding column to crash pad mounting.. 3 screw hold motor to column..mark motor to flange for assemble reference too just in case.



 

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#23 ·
I'm dropping it off on the 25th. I have an email from service advisor with the "out the door" price.

I'll post back with my experience.

In the meantime, the clunking has gotten worse. If I drive over any surface that isn't absolutely smooth, it sounds like someone unloading a machine gun :)

I'm beyond being upset with this car. Now it's just laughable.
 
#25 ·
I'm upset because I paid twenty thousand dollars for a brand new car that's having all kinds of little issues in less than 5 years of ownership. I don't feel like I got what I paid for.

Now I'm getting a popping sound in the front suspension when I turn the wheel.

The car honestly sounds like an old jalopy when I drive around town.

Is that a good enough reason to be upset? Have I adequatley validated myself ? :)


Long lived Hyundai!
 
#35 · (Edited)
HEHEHEEE,,, neighbor had 1 today.. he had column out in 15 minute I think he said.. Calls me asking about take apart.. told him 3 screw and lift, swap, set motor back and assemble..


Motor side -



Column side -


Motor on the column -


Steering column -
 

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#55 ·
HEHEHEEE,,, neighbor had 1 today.. he had column out in 15 minute I think he said.. Calls me asking about take apart.. told him 3 screw and lift, swap, set motor back and assemble..
So yea, dropping the steering column looks easy enough and from what I can find vaguely online is anytime the EPS is serviced/disconnected you have to perform a ASP (Absolute Steering Position) calibration. Now, most items I can find online show procedures on how to do that with a scan tool which the dealer would have. I did find a manual ASP procedure for a slightly older Elantra that can be done. You center the steering wheel, turn to left more the 360 degrees and return to center. Repeat moving to the right and then center. turn off engine and remove key. ASP should be calibrated then.

SBR, would you be able to confirm if the manual ASP calibration procedure would work on a 2012 Sonata? If so then I'm golden and can get this done for $1.26 for the part and a couple hours of my time. I'd hate to spend $300+ on this stupid thing.
 
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