LED Door Sill Install - Anyone done it? - Page 3 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#21 Old 05-15-2013, 09:35 AM
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Originally Posted by jimrinflorida View Post
Here are some of mine.

Awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww SNAP....

Me likey me likey...

I've seen these on ebay ranging in price....I think I've seen them as low as $50 and as much as $200....

$50 I would pull the trigger....for $200 I want to put that towards new heads and tails...

Great job Jim... btw you know I love all those blue LED's

List of mods in order of install: 35% Tint, Weather Tech Rain Guards, 18" OEM Wheels, Rear Lip, Chrome Grill, LED DRL, LED DRL's down low, LED cup holder mod, Led door plates , Paddle shifter steering wheel LED Switchback Turn Signal Rear Window Lip, H&R Lowering springs...More to come
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#22 Old 05-17-2013, 08:46 AM
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Bristerboy911
Definitely kept it clean I see! Any delays on turn on or dimming using the relay? I don't imagine it'd be noticeable and mostly negligent if any. Thanks for the diagram...definitely helps seeing it on paper so I can actually picture it. Where'd you mount the switch? I've got an '06 and am thinking of hollowing out a blank by the ESC button and mounting there.
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#23 Old 05-17-2013, 09:25 AM
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The sill plates and foot lighting dim just like the dome lamp and come on instantly like the dome lamp since the ground control for my LED circuit is connected directly to the BCM dome lamp ground circuit thru the relay. The relay disconnects my LED ground circuit from the BCM dome ground circuit and connects my circuit straight to ground when I flip the switch. The switch just grounds the solenoid in the relay to activate it which flips my ground circuit between BCM control or directly to ground. The relay also separates my LED circuit from the dome circuit so I can run the LEDs independently while driving when I flip the switch. The switch is a small black rocker switch I mounted in the drivers kick panel by the emergency brake. The relay is also mounted behind the kick panel.

Relay
AGT (5 Pack) 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style (40AMP-HRNS) : Amazon.com : Automotive AGT (5 Pack) 30/40 AMP Relay Harness Spdt 12V Bosch Style (40AMP-HRNS) : Amazon.com : Automotive

Switch
JT&T Products (2700J) - 10 AMP @ 12 Volt, Non-Illuminated On/Off Round Rocker Switch, Black : Amazon.com : Automotive JT&T Products (2700J) - 10 AMP @ 12 Volt, Non-Illuminated On/Off Round Rocker Switch, Black : Amazon.com : Automotive
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#24 Old 05-18-2013, 04:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by astark8120 View Post
Where do I get the MOBIS one?

Stainless Steel Door Sill Scuff Plates 1set 4ea for Hyundai Sonata IX45 Part | eBay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-Hyun...#ht_3220wt_917


Last edited by OMAN KOREAN TEAM; 05-18-2013 at 04:23 AM.
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#25 Old 10-04-2013, 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Bobb4484 View Post
Hi,

I've done the door stills. You remove the back ones by removing the seat cushion, then the screw that secures it to the body, then ply up same as the front sills. To remove the seat lift up hard on each side, then remove the bolts at the rear holding the seat in place, 2 on each side. I'm trying to remember but I think you must remove the side pieces on each side after the seat is out to get to the screw. Its not real easy.
Interesting... I'm considering replacing my plain sills with non-LED versions that have the scuff plate (the Mobis ones mentioned elsewhere in the thread). However, when I pulled up the edges of the rear seat, there was no bolt holding the trim in place - just a thread sticking up through a hole in the plastic:



I felt around the edges and couldn't find another screw. It appears to be held in only by clips. Am I missing something?
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#26 Old 10-04-2013, 03:49 PM
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astark8120
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Yes, there are in fact two screws that are behind the rear seat bolsters (the part where the seat belts are. You have to remove the rear seat in order to access those screws in order for you to remove and re-install the door sills. I have done the LED Door Sill install and my rear sills also had a thread sticking out which just holds the original sill in place.
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#27 Old 10-04-2013, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimrinflorida View Post
Here is the circuit I designed to control my footwell and sill plate lighting.

The colors on the relay wires at the relay are the colors that came with the prewired relay connector and I only used red and black wires of my own to make the circuits.
Jim, you obviously put a lot of thought into this circuit design.
I saw a different install method,somewhere and would like to get your opinion.
They connected the led sill ground to the door switch and ran a wire from a constant 12v source( using a add-a-fuse in the fuse box) and connected the positive from the sill to that wire.
Does this sound like a good method?

thanks
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#28 Old 10-05-2013, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by astark8120 View Post
Yes, there are in fact two screws that are behind the rear seat bolsters (the part where the seat belts are. You have to remove the rear seat in order to access those screws in order for you to remove and re-install the door sills. I have done the LED Door Sill install and my rear sills also had a thread sticking out which just holds the original sill in place.
Thanks for the tip! I assume it's the same process as this video: Remove the trunk lining, remove the seatbacks and then the bench?

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#29 Old 10-05-2013, 08:30 AM
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astark8120
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Yes, the removal is very similar to the Kia Optima video you posted. I actually looked at that myself to get some tips. One thing you need to be careful of is that if you have rear heated seats, do not pull the bottom cushion too hard. You will need to unplug the wire for the seat heater before you completely remove the seat. You will need a 11mm or 12mm socket (can't remember which) for the bolts.
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#30 Old 10-05-2013, 08:34 AM
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astark8120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swordmaster View Post
Jim, you obviously put a lot of thought into this circuit design.
I saw a different install method,somewhere and would like to get your opinion.
They connected the led sill ground to the door switch and ran a wire from a constant 12v source( using a add-a-fuse in the fuse box) and connected the positive from the sill to that wire.
Does this sound like a good method?

thanks
That is exactly what I have done. I ran the ground wire to the door switches and then ran the power wire to a add-a-circuit and tapped into the fuse box on the driver side. Tap into the TRUNK light fuse which is a 10A fuse (it is in the first row on the left side).
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