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Oil Pan Torque

27K views 40 replies 16 participants last post by  Bluesrider.df 
#1 ·
Does anyone know what the torque spec is for the oil pan bolts? I did a oil change on the wife's car (2.4L SE) and it is leaking oil out the drain plug. I replaced the crush washer and installed a new drain plug and it's still leaking. I can not figure out how this happened since I fingered the plug in by hand and snugged it down with a wrench. The online service manual says to torque drain plug to 25-32 ft lbs. but nothing on the oil pan bolts. I have to order a new oil pan since the dealer says you did the oil change and they are not going to warranty the pan. Is this a silicone gasket around the oil pan?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Mine leaked the first time i did my oil change just snugged it some more and that worked hasn't happened since,weird yours is still leaking.... seems like it happens a lot on the YF ,WORSE I'm getting oil at the filler cap? i mysteriously had oil there couple of weeks ago and checked the oil yesterday and again a small puddle around the cap .

i'll look around for the specs oil pan bolts i'm thinking 50-75 ft-lbs
 
#7 ·
Yeah, that's exactly what i said. I've been changing oil on cars since I was 17 and never had anything like this happen. Hyundai must use some type of soft metal in their oil pans. I have the oil pan on order but would like to know how snug the bolts need to be that attach the pan to the block. Heli-coil makes a repair kit M14 X 2.0 for the drain plug but it's $50 and a new oil pan is $52 online.
 
#6 ·
Yeah, I am not impressed with the oil draining "assembly" on this car. The crush washer to the less than adequate removable cover to the barely big enough hole to get the oil filter out.

Great ideas. Poor execution though.
They are over-engineering these days and much of it is in an effort to do away with the DIYers. VW has an absurd setup as well - you need to remove several bolts to remove a bottom cover just to get to the oil drain. Really annoying.
 
#9 ·
For me, going to the dealer for an OC is a hassle. They're an hour away from my house. They aren't open late on weekdays, so that means burning 3 hours on a Sat morning about 4 times a year.

Hey Buckeye, are you planning to change the oil pan yourself? I thought this was a major job that involves raising the engine, etc.
 
#10 ·
For me, going to the dealer for an OC is a hassle. They're an hour away from my house. They aren't open late on weekdays, so that means burning 3 hours on a Sat morning about 4 times a year.

Hey Buckeye, are you planning to change the oil pan yourself? I thought this was a major job that involves raising the engine, etc.
That stinks. My dealer is walking distance to my home!
 
#13 ·
The very first time I changed my oil I installed the Fumoto drain valve to do away with having to deal with the drain plug at each oil change. You might want to get this valve and try it on the old pan first to see if it leaks. It has a regular gasket not one of those crush washers. Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™
 
#14 ·
The very first time I changed my oil I installed the Fumoto drain valve to do away with having to deal with the drain plug at each oil change. You might want to get this valve and try it on the old pan first to see if it leaks. It has a regular gasket not one of those crush washers. Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™
I like this, something to consider with the plastic shield that covers the whole underneath. I like the one with the 45 degree elbow since they give you that little access panel to begin with.
 
#22 ·
On the Fumoto oil change valve

First, I have one of these on my 95 Stratus and it has been in place for about 5 years with no leaks..accidental openings...deterioration or corrosion from the heavy salt use in Pa (its machined brass). So, it is a "no brainer" to try one even if you don't change your own oil, your service person will thank you!!. Now, for those who have already bought one for their Sonata would it be more practical to buy the new version with the 45 degree angle adjustable spout? I have never seen the drain plug set-up on the Sonata so will that spout allow one to aim the used oil flow precisely through the access hole in the plastic engine under cover? Otherwise what model have you bought?
 
#23 ·
Silicone as a gasket material, small bolts (qty16) = 7.2-8.7 ft/lbs; large bolts (qty2) = 22.4-25.3ft/lbs. No specific tightening pattern, uniformly tighten the bolts in several passes. also be careful when removing the oil pan from the block to prevent damage which may hamper re-sealing.
 
#27 ·
Alright so I've never changed my oil before. What I'm seeing is if I want to change it using this, I should buy the one with the short nipple and hose. Drain the oil, make sure to remove the crush washer, put this valve on instead of the oem plug, remove the oil filter, rub some oil around the new filter to pre-grease it and put the new one on, fill the car back up with the proper oil, and start-her-up?

Seems simple enough...
 
#29 ·
Don't forget to take the opportunity to pre-fill the oil filter prior to installation. Depending on the filter it will take 1/8th to 1/4 of a quart to fill. Saves on a bit of startup wear and cost nothing!

And dont forget to put a NEW crush washer (or make sure the old one is still on the drain bolt) or you WILL get a weeping leak from the drain bolt. Ask me how I know... :mad:
 
#35 ·
Ok, here's an update. The wife takes her car over to the dealer and says the drain plug is leaking oil so they put it up on the lift and they tell her the drain plug is loose. She brings home the invoice and it says "tightened drain plug to mfg. specifications". I tell her no way was that drain plug loose cause I checked it twice with a wrench not a torque wrench and it was tight and still leaking. So I check it after the dealer torqued it and so far no leak. I guess a word of advice is always use a torque wrench and tighten to 25-32 ft.lbs. I've never in all the years of changing oil used a torque wrench to tighten a drain plug. I told the wife not to cancel the pan that's on order just yet. I'm not convinced that the dealer took care of the problem. :confused:
 
#39 ·
First item, to get it out of the way: what do the bolts holding the oil pan to the bottom of the block have to do with the oil drain bolt? How can a leak in one be related to the other?

Second item: Who can possibly believe that it takes 24-32 foot-pounds of torque to secure a drain bolt? My guess is that it's an aluminum pan, and this is a recipe for disaster (stripping the threads out, sooner or later).
I have done my own oil changes (steel bolt in an aluminum pan, copper washer) on 12 SAABs over 40 years. That's a lot of oil changes, and I have never, ever had a problem.
When putting the drain bolt back in, if Hyundai supplies an aluminum crush washer, throw it as far as possible and go to Auto Zone or somewhere and buy a copper one. Copper has "spring back" when the bolt is tightened, aluminum has none. This means that the washer is reusable, and it helps to maintain the tight fit.
My technique for re-installing the bolt is as follows: 1) screw the bolt back in finger tight, making sure you have that copper washer on there, 2) using a standard 3/8 drive ratchet and a socket of whatever size your bolt is, tighten the bolt just snug, and then give the handle of the ratchet one (1) nice tug. That is all it takes, and it's certainly not more than 10 foot-pounds. If you feel you cannot control this process well enough, install a Fumoto valve in place of the drain bolt (Google is your friend).

I have done oil changes on several of my kids' cars, and the guy at the dealer or Jiffy-Lube must have thought he was reinstalling the head bolt on a D9 Caterpillar. I have had to use breaker bars to get the drain bolt out. I have had several oil filters put on so tight that the housing of the filter was distorted. This should never, ever happen.

(NB: the following may be more information that you need or want)

Torquing fasteners is something that, if done repeatedly at high torque, is going to weaken not only the fastener but the threads it's engaging. Sooner or later, those threads are coming out. With some things, like cylinder heads, it's unavoidable. With things like oil pan drain bolts, it most certainly is.
 
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