Oil Pan Torque - Page 4 - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#31 Old 07-11-2012, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Bearcats View Post
Don't forget to take the opportunity to pre-fill the oil filter prior to installation. Depending on the filter it will take 1/8th to 1/4 of a quart to fill. Saves on a bit of startup wear and cost nothing!

And dont forget to put a NEW crush washer (or make sure the old one is still on the drain bolt) or you WILL get a weeping leak from the drain bolt. Ask me how I know...
You still need the washer with the new valve?
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#32 Old 07-12-2012, 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Dave-S View Post
The very first time I changed my oil I installed the Fumoto drain valve to do away with having to deal with the drain plug at each oil change. You might want to get this valve and try it on the old pan first to see if it leaks. It has a regular gasket not one of those crush washers. Fumoto Valve | Qwik Valve™
I bought one of these today, thanks for the tip!
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#33 Old 07-12-2012, 04:35 PM
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I bought one of these today, thanks for the tip!
Which one did you purchase ? (model #)
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#34 Old 07-12-2012, 04:45 PM
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F-106
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#35 Old 07-13-2012, 10:07 AM
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Ok, here's an update. The wife takes her car over to the dealer and says the drain plug is leaking oil so they put it up on the lift and they tell her the drain plug is loose. She brings home the invoice and it says "tightened drain plug to mfg. specifications". I tell her no way was that drain plug loose cause I checked it twice with a wrench not a torque wrench and it was tight and still leaking. So I check it after the dealer torqued it and so far no leak. I guess a word of advice is always use a torque wrench and tighten to 25-32 ft.lbs. I've never in all the years of changing oil used a torque wrench to tighten a drain plug. I told the wife not to cancel the pan that's on order just yet. I'm not convinced that the dealer took care of the problem.
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#36 Old 07-13-2012, 10:18 AM
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Dealership charge $29 for oil change, why mess with it?
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#37 Old 07-13-2012, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mkong View Post
Dealership charge $29 for oil change, why mess with it?
Stealership doesn't use synthetic. Stealership is two hour round trip.
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#38 Old 07-13-2012, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by mkong View Post
Dealership charge $29 for oil change, why mess with it?
No synthetic. job not performed correctly. Oil all over my wind pan which then leaks on my driveway. Over torqued drain bolts that shake the car. Tons of reasons.

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#39 Old 07-13-2012, 12:45 PM
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First item, to get it out of the way: what do the bolts holding the oil pan to the bottom of the block have to do with the oil drain bolt? How can a leak in one be related to the other?

Second item: Who can possibly believe that it takes 24-32 foot-pounds of torque to secure a drain bolt? My guess is that it's an aluminum pan, and this is a recipe for disaster (stripping the threads out, sooner or later).
I have done my own oil changes (steel bolt in an aluminum pan, copper washer) on 12 SAABs over 40 years. That's a lot of oil changes, and I have never, ever had a problem.
When putting the drain bolt back in, if Hyundai supplies an aluminum crush washer, throw it as far as possible and go to Auto Zone or somewhere and buy a copper one. Copper has "spring back" when the bolt is tightened, aluminum has none. This means that the washer is reusable, and it helps to maintain the tight fit.
My technique for re-installing the bolt is as follows: 1) screw the bolt back in finger tight, making sure you have that copper washer on there, 2) using a standard 3/8 drive ratchet and a socket of whatever size your bolt is, tighten the bolt just snug, and then give the handle of the ratchet one (1) nice tug. That is all it takes, and it's certainly not more than 10 foot-pounds. If you feel you cannot control this process well enough, install a Fumoto valve in place of the drain bolt (Google is your friend).

I have done oil changes on several of my kids' cars, and the guy at the dealer or Jiffy-Lube must have thought he was reinstalling the head bolt on a D9 Caterpillar. I have had to use breaker bars to get the drain bolt out. I have had several oil filters put on so tight that the housing of the filter was distorted. This should never, ever happen.

(NB: the following may be more information that you need or want)

Torquing fasteners is something that, if done repeatedly at high torque, is going to weaken not only the fastener but the threads it's engaging. Sooner or later, those threads are coming out. With some things, like cylinder heads, it's unavoidable. With things like oil pan drain bolts, it most certainly is.

Current ride: '04 SAAB 9-5 Wagon. Doing the research on a new car, YF Sonata and new Santa Fe Sport are contenders.
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#40 Old 07-13-2012, 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by guitarfish View Post
Stealership doesn't use synthetic. Stealership is two hour round trip.
The two hour trip is the killer. Synthetic? I'm always on the fence about that. I've seen engines go 300K+ on WalMart Supertech conventional oil changed every 3K miles.
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