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post #1 of 5 Old 05-10-2012, 10:35 PM Thread Starter
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Amp Remote Power Help Needed!

Okay, so I had a bit more time to work on the car today and continued on with the amp installation project following these (excellent) directions:

Diy Amp/subwoofer Install

However, after getting my remote wire soldered I noticed that it *always* has 12v happening, regardless of key position. The wire is in the exact same position as in the above post, but the wire I've spliced in to is an ugly red-brown, not pink.

Any ideas? I'm about ready to throw this thing out the window because I figured I'd be done during daylight hours and I've still not managed to splice in to all of my speakers yet... next week, I suppose :\
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post #2 of 5 Old 05-10-2012, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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I rummaged around the forum a bit more, would throwing an add-a-circuit on the radio fuse be sufficient, or would I be changing fuses pretty often?

My penance for asking so many questions on this install will be a long post about what I did wrong and how I fixed it.
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post #3 of 5 Old 05-11-2012, 12:17 AM
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Since you've already tapped into a wire that has constant 12v going through it this of course is going to keep your amp on and sucking power when the car is off. You have two options, cut the wire from where you soldered it, and solder it to a true switched 12v power source (use a volt/ohm meter to verify), or install a switch. You can get a small rocker switch from any place that carries electronic accessories for $3-$4. Then you can install this switch anywhere in the car you choose. You will have to make sure you switch the amp off manually whenever your car is off to not drain your battery, but it can be done.

Even if you reconnect the remote wire to a true switched 12v power supply that cuts the amp off every time your car is off I still reccomend installing a switch, especially if you are pushing subs at competition levels. Doing this allows you to at any time disconnect the amp from the stock speakers, thus killing all bass. This is especially handy in avoiding noise violation tickets. It's easy to say "Officer I DO have a sub in the trunk, but it's not even hooked up so it couldn't have been me you heard" and then go on to show them your amp isn't even on
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post #4 of 5 Old 05-11-2012, 12:29 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, the switched power is the issue, there must be a difference between my trim (Canadian-spec GLS) and the trim in that installation tutorial that's changed that lead to a steady 12v. Annoying, because I did a hella good job soldering it!

So now I need to find another switched 12v lead to splice in to. I was hoping that using the add-a-circuit on the fuse panel would be sufficient.

Good call on the switch, I may work that in to it as well. There'll never be any competition-level stuff coming from me, but it seems like a smart call. You guys are going to laugh at me when I finally post photos of this tiny little unit.
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post #5 of 5 Old 05-11-2012, 11:51 AM Thread Starter
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K, I'm taking a leap of faith and using an add-a-circuit.

If this is my last post, my car burst in to flames as a result.
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