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Oil Analysis Reports Only

64K views 154 replies 43 participants last post by  rafciu123 
#1 ·
This thread is for posting your oil analysis reports only. We dont want to start conversations on this thread. Just list the oil and filter combo you are using. That way it will be easy to view all the reports quickly. Thanks to everyone for participating!;):)
 
#29 ·
You should still be able to use Blackstone labs to have your oil analyzed. Blackstone Labs

You may want to call or email them to check but that is where most of us have had ours done. They send you a free sample kit that you mail to them.
 
#30 ·
You should still be able to use Blackstone labs to have your oil analyzed. Blackstone Labs

You may want to call or email them to check but that is where most of us have had ours done. They send you a free sample kit that you mail to them.
Thanks for the link, I could find the province of Quebec in the drop list so I requested my test kit. I'll send my oil sample in march when I'll do my next oil change.
 
#32 ·
Dyson also provides a commentary on the oil and vehicle and is there anything that you can share as to his comments? He knows his stuff but kind of $$$$ for the average driver and even he needs a trend to really see what is going on with an engine so you are into him for at least 2-4 UOA before he can really conclude anything. Well, other than a head gasket or coolant leak.
 
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#33 ·
My experience with Dyson has been a bit different. My experience has been that he has enough data not just on oil analyses, but from things like drivetrain development work, lube formulating work, and other realms as well that he can tell you to look for xx issue, even on a first UOA. That doesn't suggest that multiple analyses aren't beneficial, of course.

I've had him I.D. things like poorly-performing plug wires, coil packs, and PCV valves, as well as intake systems with _small_ leaks or filters that are starting to load. The nice thing about Dyson's work is that you don't have to wait until shortly after timing chain (and engine) failure to be able to say. 'A-Ha! That's what the 500 ppm iron trend was all about!' :) I'm really just saying that it's nice to be able to have a more predictive service, with solid recommendations as to where to look to try to head things off early.

I think that Dyson's service may not be for everyone, but he never leads us (I had him watching the fleet at work, before he shut down that side of his business while he's been working at a major engine manufacturer) down the wrong path with mis-interpretations of the data. That's key, IMO, if you're going to pay someone to 'interpret' the numbers.
 
#36 ·
2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS
Oil = Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20
Hyundai OEM filter
Mileage on oil/filter = 6,723
Mileage on car = 14,636
Drove Car for 10 min prior to oil change

Techron Fuel service treatment at 14,000 miles
I also have a Magnetic drain plug installed
View attachment 138898
Great to stretch to 8K intervals. Pennzoil seems to be one of the top recommendations out there these days.
 
#38 ·
Yes, Iron is a little high (for a 3k mile run) but one UOA doesn't establish trends. This is what your looking for. Do a couple more UOA and see if you're trending higher or lower on the same oil. Two more results of 27ppm will have an insignificant effect on your engines wear rate. If you change the oil brand or viscosity and run a UOA then, it may come back better or worse but that wont mean the change was the reason, and thus you'll be getting inconsistent results. Most D.I. cars dilute oil and show no ill effect by doing so...even with dino...even with xw20 oils. Lots of excellent Pennzoil conventional + Sonata 2.4 UOAs out there.:wink:
 
#39 ·
2011 Sonata SE 2.4L
Oil Used: Quaker State Ultimate Durability 5w30
Filter Used: Fram Ultra Synthetic
Miles On Unit: 69334
Miles On Oil: 4594


I also run Techron through the tank, usually one run per OCI (I know this is an old one from this past November, however, I just saw this thread and thought I'd post, as this was my first UOA on the car). Also of note: I had remnants of a quart of the old formula Pennzoil Platinum 5w20 laying around, so I used that as top-off when necessary. For my current OCI, which I will cap at 5500 miles to test the waters with running a reasonable OCI on a GDI engine, I am running solely QSUD 5w30, for initial fill and top-off, to see if the TBN or anything else really changes.
 

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#42 ·
Oil = Pennzoil Ultra 5w-20
Hyundai OEM filter
Mileage on oil/filter = 7,553
Mileage on car = 22,189
Drove Car for 5 min prior. Not warmed up all the way.
Magnetic drain plug installed

Fuel was up this time but probably due to Idle time during the winter.

Interesting report.They are tellin[/URL]g you to go 53 miles less on your next oil change. I do not see how that would make a big difference. I would try going down to 6000k,test again and re-evaluate based on that report.

The 2.3% number is also interesting. Would using a thicker oil change that??

Thanks for posting the report!
 
#44 · (Edited)
Assuming this isn't your first uoa on this oil and that a trend has been established wherein you can better come to a conclusion on future decisions...

Neither viscosity or oil type (synthetic, blend or conventional) will make a difference where dilution is concerned. Dilution will still occur. You can either increase vicosity grade to give you more of a cusion or, shorten the oci. Typically, the more miles driven (or after engine break in) the less dilution but on a 2013...that is a little high. Also of note, dilution has shown very little adverse effects on the vast majority of UOA I've seen for direct injection engines but here again, your wear metals, particularly Iron, is high. If this is what's going on while using a very stout oil like PU, i wouldn't spend the extra cash to run that oil for anything shorter. Instead, i would use a less expensive syn or even a conventional, but for shorter oci.
 
#45 ·
I woud like to see more of these UOA's on our GDI motors. Would be interestng to see the oils use,oil change intervals,and other practices such as oil addatives.I will be doing my first one on my next oil change.

There is another thread going on where a member just had one done on a 2011,66k miles, with very good results .
 
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#151 · (Edited)
I woud like to see more of these UOA's on our GDI motors.
My 2013 Accent (GDI 1.6 Gamma engine).

Filter: Hyundai OEM​
Oil: Quaker State 5/20 (organic, not synthetic. I do think synthetic could be better for GDI because synthetic reportedly doesn't coke as easily?).​
Miles on filter & oil: 823 miles​
Time on filter & oil: Exactly 6 months.​

I only drive about 2500 miles per year. So, I've been changing every 6 months (about 1250 miles) due to concerns about moisture/condensation/sludge. That's what the dealership recommends, and I'm even still in warranty for another year.

The analysis suggests that's overkill and I should try 5000 miles That's two years. I think I'll try one year this time, and see what happens.

Anyway, this analysis has limited applicability to most drivers. If someone drove infrequently, this analysis would apply to be useful to them.
448034


EDIT: I contacted Blackstone about the viscosity per @Drunken Elvis in post #153. I will update this post if they reply while this post is editable.
 
#47 ·
Thanks for the advide. I am going to try a shorter change interval this time. The only thing on fuel dilution that i could think of is that it was the winter season here and I let her idle a lot.

Last oil change/analysis was done in the summer with less idling.
Still don't like the high "Fe"

Will change this one before winter and post back and see if fuel dilution changes with the seasons.
 
#48 ·
IMO the engine is still breaking in, some take over 50,000 miles for metal wear to average out. A shorter OCI will indeed make the numbers look better but you either have not solved the problem (unless the PPM or iron per mile go down as well) or this engine will spew iron at a higher rate. A couple of samples is not enough to really look at a trend though
 
#49 ·
I just sent an oil sample to Blackstone yesterday via the post office. Will post results when I get them.Their websites says it could take up to 4 weeks.:surprise: Seems long,how long did it take for some of you to get the results?
 
#51 ·
Got mine emailed to me in about a week. Then again though I live about an hour away from Ft. Wayne.
Just received mine.......mailed it in 8 days ago,thats a far cry from the 4 weeks they say it could take.

Oil = Dealer changed Castrol GTX 5W/30(conventional oil)
Hyundai OEM filter
Mileage on oil/filter = 3901
Mileage on motor = 7282
*2nd oil change with MMO added to oil at each oil change

They say I can go a bit longer on the oil.I will call them on that to what "a bit" means to them.They also say,"The low viscosity is okay". Anyone know what that means?

 

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#52 ·
Thats an excellent UOA and proof that a conventional is up the the task. As for your question regarding viscosity being OK? This is what they mean....

Take a look at your VISOSITY@100*C... it says 8.08. This number is telling you that your 5w30 is now a 5w20. Take a look at the link below. Specifically at the High-temp Viscosities chart (number after the W). For an oil to meat the w30 viscosity, it must be between 9.3 - <12.5. Your oil is now at 8.08, hence lower or diluted(fuel in oil) to a w20. The w20 range is 5.6 - 9.3. Your car is new and dilution is expected. Also, there is no elevated wear in this UOA to worry about so the dilution, in my estimation, is not a concern. Dilution is common in GDI engines and many believe (opinion) that the manufacturers have taken this into consideration. It will lessen as time and miles accumulate. Your wear metals are actually much less than others i've seen on engines this green.

Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms

SAE viscosity grades ? viscosity table and viscosity chart

Thanks for sharing! :grin2:
 
#54 ·
Thats an excellent UOA and proof that a conventional is up the the task. As for your question regarding viscosity being OK? This is what they mean....

Take a look at your VISOSITY@100*C... it says 8.08. This number is telling you that your 5w30 is now a 5w20. Take a look at the link below. Specifically at the High-temp Viscosities chart (number after the W). For an oil to meat the w30 viscosity, it must be between 9.3 - <12.5. Your oil is now at 8.08, hence lower or diluted(fuel in oil) to a w20. The w20 range is 5.6 - 9.3. Your car is new and dilution is expected. Also, there is no elevated wear in this UOA to worry about so the dilution, in my estimation, is not a concern. Dilution is common in GDI engines and many believe (opinion) that the manufacturers have taken this into consideration. It will lessen as time and miles accumulate. Your wear metals are actually much less than others i've seen on engines this green.

Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms

SAE viscosity grades ? viscosity table and viscosity chart

Thanks for sharing! :grin2:
Wemay,thanks for the charts and explaining that to me,I now see the light.:smile: On a different note,I screwed up the viscosity.My Hyundai work order simply states Castrol GTX (bulk oil)was used. When sending the oil to Blackstone,I wrote down 5W30 was used. Out of curiosity,I called the Hyundai service department today and asked what they used for all of their oils.

Conventional Oil.....5W20
Synthetic Blend.......5W20
Full Synthetic(Valvoline)..... 0W20

My service guy needs a smack in the head as he told me 0W was too thin....lol.
 
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#55 ·
On the oil just sampled,I would say it was about 40% city/60% highway as we took road trips to both Toronto and Virginia.

Next sample when the time comes,will be more of how we normally drive which is 75% city/25% highway.

City driving for us is not true city such as in NYC where you are going from block to bock with traffic lights just sitting there.We do drive there but,not enough to change our city/highway ratio mix. Our city driving is more like dropping off daughter to school,grocery store trips,shopping/mall,errands across various towns,basically a mix of short and mid range trips throughout the area.
 
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#58 ·
I agree. what current hyundai model requires 0W-20? it's so darn expensive too. i use supertech 5W-30 full synthetic for $19; PQIA tested and approved

no nasty walmart comments please; it's Sunday after all...
 
#59 · (Edited)
Another good link,thanks!

According to the number of 8.08 in my report,viscosity stayed near the top.The virgin Castrol GTX in your link has Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt, (ASTM D445) at 8.99 .

With this report,if I keep oci around 4000-4500 miles,I should probably continue to do what I am doing including the oil addative. I do not even know if going to synthetic would even benefit me changing the oil at 4000-4500 miles.

I would like to try a full synthetic going into the winter months for the heck of it though,maybe Mobile 1 OW20 ,OW30,or OW40.


Hmmmmm......thoughts?
 
#62 ·
So,I received the oil analysis report tonight which is for the 3rd oil change.

Oil = Dealer changed Castrol GTX 5W/20(conventional oil)
Hyundai OEM filter
Mileage on oil/filter = 4403
Mileage on motor = 11,951
*3rd oil change with MMO added to oil at each oil change

Notes... Both UOA's show that the oil addative is NOT diluting the oil which was a concern.Good news. :smile: Blackstone comments that 2-3k miles may be had on this oil,which is impressive,but,something I am not willing to do or try.
 

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#65 ·
Hi Airforce1,

It will be interesting to see how oil analysis comes with synthetic oil which you are using now.[/QUOTE]

True,if its negative in any way,I will be sumped..:smile:

And I was curious about the "serious fuel dilution" that everyone talks about with the Sonata DI engine. I DON'T see it.

Thanks for posting
NP.
 
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#68 ·
Lighter weight "machine" oil with better dispersion properties. Makes the rings and the cylinders play nicer with each other and also gets into places where regular oil might get bound up by sludge. In fact, it has been said it keeps sludge from forming in the first place, and I can attest to this after using it from new in my Honda and from near-new in my Corollas.
 
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