Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Central California
2013 YF 2.0T Limited P. & Optima SE V6
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|Thanks for the write-up. Is your car AT or MT? Since you had the steering wheel off, did you think about replacing the plasticky steering wheel with the leather-wrapped one? Will the one from SR fit on a GLS with the 6-speed manual transmission? It's listed as "2011 Sonata paddle-shift steering wheel", compatible with all AT Sonatas... I wonder why it wouldn't fit on the GLS MT.|
|Wait 3 minutes for all voltage to dissipate. (This takes the scare out of working with the airbag)|
|I believe the paddle shift steering wheel that Shark Racing markets will bolt onto your 6MT GLS. The paddle shifters may look a little out of place since they wont be doing any manual shifting.|
Just finished adding the factory foglights to my GLS. Shark Racing supplied the parts, and since I haven't heard of anybody else installing the OEM switch I thought I'd share how it went.
#1, you will need a steering wheel puller. I borrowed one from an auto parts store for free with a refundable deposit. You also need a 22MM socket, although you may get by with a box wrench.
* you may wish to record your AM/FM/XM presets, you will be loosing them*
Start with the car parked with the steering wheel straight ahead so you know how to put the wheel back on in the right orientation.
Next remove the negative battery cable.
Wait 3 minutes for all voltage to dissipate. (This takes the scare out of working with the airbag)
Take something solid and skinney like a nail or #0 phillips screwdriver and poke it into each of the three little holes at 3, 6, and 9 o-clock just behind the airbag housing (aka horn button). This is in the HMA online service guide.
The airbag is now released except for the connections. This is also in the HMA guide, just follow the diagrams on where to remove the connectors.
Treat the airbag gently, dont drop your toolbox on it.
The airbag clock spring is next. It is just held in place by 3 snap type keepers. I think they were at 9, 12 and 3 o-clock. Do not rotate this, later you will need to install it just the way it was. (it has a sticker on it telling what to do if it gets rotated, no big deal)
Now remove the the top and bottom column shrouds (real easy, three #2 phillips screws)
Next use the 22MM socket to remove the nut on the steering shaft.
Use the steering wheel puller to break the wheel free from the shaft. A hammer or piece of wood will not work. You need a puller for this. It only takes about one minute to use the puller.
The switches are now ready to be removed. The left and right stalks are snapped together and held on by two phillips machine screws. (and some connectors)
Once they are off, take a flat blade screwdriver and pry the backside of the wiper switch assembly away from the rest of the assembly. Study the new part Shark supplied and you will see where I'm talking about.
It comes off easy, and now you can snap it into the new Headlight stalk assembly and you are ready to put it back together and wire up the new connections.
Shark Racing supplies the wiring info, and reassembly of the rest is just the reverse of taking it apart. (no need to wait 3 minutes this time)
Hope this helps somebody.
EDIT: Get the steering wheel nut tight! Had to go back and tighten to remove a little play in the wheel. This time I used a torque wrench set to 50 lbs/ft. The first time was probably only about 30.
FYI everybody, that 3 minute dissipate time came directly from the HMA website, in the removing the airbag section. Wasn't my idea...
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