Sonata 2.4l 2002 Timing Belt Complete Step By Step - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#1 Old 06-21-2009, 12:25 AM
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all41and14all
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The timing belt that i used was $50 dayco from Pepboys. The removed Hyundai timing belt was made by bando. The new balance belt was $22 goodyear from kragen/oriley (Pepboys was out it would have been a $20 dayco). The removed Hyundai balance belt was made by Gates(powergrip). The dealership in Pasadena wanted $515 for the job and that include all belts (both timing and 2 accessory belts).

1.(optional) Spray out the passenger side front wheel well so that all the brake dust is removed. Make sure everything is dry before continuing.
2.Put the car on a jack stand(1) and take off the right front (passenger side front) wheel (don't forget wheel chocks and the parking brake).
3.Remove 2 sets of splash covers on the passenger side.
4.Loosen Crankshaft pulley bolt - 22mm impact socket + breaker bar + long pipe braced against the ground. Click Engine for 0.5 seconds and the bolt should break free (or use and impact wrench).
5.Support the engine by the oil pan using 2 wood blocks and a floor jack.
6.Remove engine mount on the passenger side. Pop power steering reservoir up and use a 17mm impact socket and breaker bar to loosen the right (radiator) bolt holding the engine mount (after breaking free the bolt you can use a regular socket wrench to turn the bolt out). Remove that bolt. Use the 17mm socket + breaker bar + pipe to remove the 3 bolts attaching the engine mount to the engine.
7.Remove the bolt securing the power steering line (so you get a little more room).
8.Raise the engine till the water pump pulley bolts are accessible by a socket wrench and then loosen those 4 x 10mm bolts (at this time the belts should still be on which will help hold the pulley from turning).
9.Remove the power steering belt (turn the screw holding the belt tensioner closest to the radiator counter clockwise) and alternator belt (loosen the side bolt holding the slide on the alternator).
10.Remove the Upper timing cover.
11.On the crankshaft pulley remove the 4 x 12mm bolts and take off the crankshaft pulley. (an impact wrench really helps for these 4 bolts but you have to use a regular deep socket because the impact sockets are too thick)
12.Remove the lower timing cover (jack the engine up and down to make accessing the bolts easier).
13.Rotate the crank shaft clockwise to set the timing marks. Intake cam, exhaust cam, left balance shaft, right balance shaft/oil pump, and crankshaft sensing blade. 5 sets of timing marks in total.
14.Use a permanent marker and mark a few timing spots onto the timing belt. This is for reference just in case you need to put this belt back on the exact same spot. I used the 2 cam shaft timing marks and an arbitrary place on the crankshaft. This technique is also helpful when installing the new timing belt by transferring the marks on the old belt to the new belt.
15.Unbolt the auto tensioner (2) screws. Be careful when this thing releases the tension on the timing belt just about every cam/sprocket will turn.
16.Check the auto tensioner it should have a 14.5mm extension (top of the housing to the top of the plunger). If not it probably needs to be replaced.
17.To reuse a the auto tensioner get a 100mm (minimum) clamp and slowly compress the plunger. When it is fully compressed put a pin into the hole.
18.Remove the crankshaft sprocket.
19.Pop off the crankshaft position sensor (2 screws) and move it out of the way.
20.Pop off the crankshaft sensing blade to get to the balance belt.
21.Loosen the balance belt tensioner and remove the balance belt.
22.Install the new balance belt.
23.Put back on the balance belt tensioner. The side with the lip and the protruding center should face out. On my car the bolt looked like it was at about 4 o'clock when the tensioner was put back on.
24.Put back on the crankshaft sensing blade and the crankshaft position sensor.
25.Put back on the crankshaft sprocket.
26.Install the new timing belt. Do your best to line up the timing marks. For this step it helps to move the intake cam forward a few(1-2) teeth and have someone hold the exhaust cam with a wrench. That way then the auto tensioner is put in the slack rolls the intake cam into it's proper position.
27.Install the auto tensioner with the pin still in.
28.Once all the timing marks are verified you can pull the pin in the auto tensioner.
29.Reassemble.

Please Let me know if i have missed a step or a tip so that I can update the instructions. My goal is to give any newbie the required instructions to do this job themselves.

SPECIAL THANKS TO BITWORKS for answering the many questions that I had. This job would have been 100 times more difficult without his/her help.
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#2 Old 06-21-2009, 12:46 AM
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all41and14all
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Additional Notes.
Pepboys: PowerSteering Belt $10 dayco with a 1yr warranty. $24 - 3yr warranty.
AC/Waterpump belt $10 dayco with a 1yr warranty. $15 - 3yr.
Idller/Tensioner 3pc pack $90.

Kragen: Timing belt - $62 gates. $68 beck-arnley.
Balance belt $28 beck arnley.
PowerSteering $25 goodyear. $21 gates.
AC/Waterpump belt $19 gates.
Auto Tensioner: $94 beck-arnley. $43 gates.

Hyundai (pasadena parts dept.)
Timing Belt: $113
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#3 Old 06-21-2009, 10:14 AM
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good post.....thanks for taking the trouble to type and post it here



MONTEGO

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#4 Old 06-21-2009, 12:14 PM
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sean1k2
QUOTE (all41and14all @ Jun 20 2009, 10:46 PM)
Quote:
Additional Notes.
Pepboys: PowerSteering Belt $10 dayco with a 1yr warranty. $24 - 3yr warranty.
AC/Waterpump belt $10 dayco with a 1yr warranty. $15 - 3yr.
Idller/Tensioner 3pc pack $90.

Kragen: Timing belt - $62 gates. $68 beck-arnley.
Balance belt $28 beck arnley.
PowerSteering $25 goodyear. $21 gates.
AC/Waterpump belt $19 gates.
Auto Tensioner: $94 beck-arnley. $43 gates.

Hyundai (pasadena parts dept.)
Timing Belt: $113

kudos to you man, I'm impressed a real big DIY job, got any pics to go along with this instruction? I might need it one day, I have an 09 Sonata!
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#5 Old 08-14-2009, 09:51 PM
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Carbuff71
In your instructions,to remove the crank pulley,you only need to remove the 4 small bolts? I did that and the pulley wont budge,should I try to pry it off with 2 bars by wiggling them behind the pulley or should I use a puller/
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#6 Old 08-15-2009, 12:32 PM
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hyperlexis
There are, I vaguely recall, photos of some of the steps on HMAservice.com which may be helpful.

Also, I would recommend not re-using the auto tensioner. My mechanic warned me about that, that to just go with a new one because the old ones do wear and its cheaper to do all the work in one shot. The 2.4 of this generation has a b-tch of a timing belt replacement process. One mechanic I took my car to for the first change at 60k had a heck of a time doing it, mainly because of the secondary balance shafts and securing their position while everything was disassesembled. Months later when the car was towed to the dealer for a bad crank sensor, I was shocked to learn that the prior mechanic had actually installed the timing belt backwards, so I had a new one installed. That was one Sonata breakdown I was actually glad to have happened... Otherwise I may never have known, unless, perhaps the backwards belt ended up breaking.

So, be sure your new belts have the arrows facing in the proper direction....
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#7 Old 07-28-2010, 07:35 PM
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Does anyone have any photos of the timing marks? I can not find the marks for the crank pully and would love get this sucker back together tonight!

Thanks!!!
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#8 Old 07-29-2010, 12:16 AM
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Verify the following timing marks are aligned (refer to photos below):
Camshaft sprockets (intake 1, 2; exhaust 3, 4)
Balance shaft (5, 6) and oil pump sprocket/balance shaft (7, 8)
Crankshaft (9, 10)




******** [b]Set the oil pump sprocket so that timing marks #7 and #8 are aligned. Quickly rotate the sprocket back and forth, between the 9 and 12 oclock position feeling for a centering feel when the timing marks meet. If the sprocket timing mark feels like it wants to move away from the other mark, rotate the sprocket one complete revolution and try it again.Timing marks #7 and #8 will naturally align when the balance shaft is in the proper orientation




Wrap the timing belt in a clockwise direction starting from the intake cam sprocket. Keep the belt tight when installing over the exhaust cam sprocket, oil pump sprocket/ balancer, and crankshaft.
Apply hand pressure to the tensioner pulley to take up any slack, and remove the lock pin from the tensioner. Remove cam sprocket holder.
Rotate the crankshaft clockwise (by hand) 2 complete revolutions and set to TDC. If the TDC mark was passed, then rotate the crankshaft another two complete revolutions. The crankshaft must only be turned clockwise for proper tension and orientation of the timing marks.

Inspect the timing marks of the cam sprockets for proper timing.
NOTE
Due to the difference in ratio between the crank sprocket and the oil pump sprocket, the oil pump sprocket will appear out of time after turning the crankshaft 2 revolutions (provided the sprocket was set properly in steps 8 and 9). The oil pump sprocket will come into alignment on the 6th revolution (1 : 1.5 ratio; crank to oil pump).

If the timing marks are properly timed, rotate the crankshaft an additional 90 degrees to take the marks off of TDC.
Reassemble the engine (if applicable) and install new timing belt cover P/N 21360-38214-D.


Make sure your upper timing belt cover looks like this -

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#9 Old 08-12-2010, 05:25 PM
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gazoom
QUOTE (sbr711 @ Jul 28 2010, 11:16 PM)
Quote:
Wrap the timing belt in a clockwise direction starting from the intake cam sprocket. Keep the belt tight when installing over the exhaust cam sprocket, oil pump sprocket/ balancer, and crankshaft.
The manual I read has the belt go on in the opposite direction, counterclockwise, starting at the crankshaft. I guess it accomplishes the same result your way...

My BIG issue is putting the belt on correctly so that the cams are timed. It appears that the cam marks and the marks on the housing only line up if the cams are moved outboard a sprocket or 2 from their at rest position on the valve springs...is this your take?


Anybody want to count belt teeth between the cam timing marks... so I will know if I got it correct?
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#10 Old 08-12-2010, 09:13 PM
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QUOTE (gazoom @ Aug 12 2010, 04:25 PM)
Quote:
The manual I read has the belt go on in the opposite direction, counterclockwise, starting at the crankshaft. I guess it accomplishes the same result your way...
[b]Nope, Not my way... I should have proof read what I swiped from the Hyundai TSB---- I suppose I "could" correct that error of their way...

I start at the crank, and work counterclockwise, so the last thing I have to do is turn the intake cam to hit the teeth on the belt correct....

My BIG issue is putting the belt on correctly so that the cams are timed. It appears that the cam marks and the marks on the housing only line up if the cams are moved outboard a sprocket or 2 from their at rest position on the valve springs...is this your take?
[b]Is kinda pain in backside with intake cam wanting to flip out on you.. the Hyundai holder tool is a piece of dooo doo, serves enough purpose that I can roll the cams together to align marks..

Anybody want to count belt teeth between the cam timing marks... so I will know if I got it correct?
[b]Before you remove the old belt, paint 1 tooth of the belt at each cog and the matching groove on the cog, then simply transfer paint marks to new belt... then put new belt on with paint marks back the way you took it apart.. then simply verify factory marks. That is how I do the 2.4 and the 3.5, as the 3.5 has (4) cams, so it is a lot more fun to deal with.. The pic gives idea on how to mark tooth on belt to groove on cog...
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PICT0206.JPG (172.6 KB, 235 views)

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