2001 Sonata wont shift - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-10-2017, 11:50 PM Thread Starter
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2001 Sonata wont shift

Hi all:
Newbie here but I'm at my witt's end with the sonata I bought to drive back and forth to work. It's a 2001 sonata with a 2.4L motor and a rebuilt 4 speed auto transmission. Base model. I bought this in April of 2016, 132xxx miles on it now and I've been fighting this thing from day 1. Main issue was it wouldn't fill with gas more than .50 at a time, but that's another issue. The issue I'm having now is that I drove it to work and back home. Ran fine, Then jumped in it to go to town and it wouldn't shift unless I revved it to 4-5 grand rpms then let off and it would finally shift and it was idling extremely rough, and died on me a couple times trying to get it home. Also, it now wouldn't read CEL codes (tried 4 different scanners). Checked the battery (good), Alternator was putting out 12.69V when running, and just replaced the speed sensors with genuine Hyundai parts. I'm at a loss on this one. Any help would be great, since driving my truck is starting to get EXPENSIVE!!!
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-11-2017, 02:37 PM
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Sounds like it could be the TPS possibly... I'm assuming you checked the fluid level on the gear box with it warm, level and in neutral? Does the fluid look or smell bad? Also, the filling issue has something to do with the purge valve, Mine is doing that and it's extremely frustrating to fill the tank when it's -20F outside and the tank will only take about $0.50-0.75 at a time.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 02:42 PM
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+1, that's good advice from @Joe slicer. Maybe you could try cleaning the PCM connectors with contact cleaner, look for any corrosion. Or maybe you have a trouble code from the TCM that your scanner can't read. Some transmission shops (such as AAMCO) will read the trouble code for free. Good luck, let us know how things go.
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-13-2017, 03:53 PM
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A fully charged battery is 12.73v open circuit at rest. A reading 12.69 is way too low for an alternator output, it should be ideally between 13.8v and 14.2v.
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 06:24 PM Thread Starter
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Hey guys, Thanks for the advice. Would a TPS (throttle Position Sensor) really effect the shifting? I'd take it to a transmission shop, but I can't get any power to the connection port. Checked EVERY fuse in the car and they are ALL good. so I don't even know where to start on this. Is there any way to test a TPS?
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-14-2017, 06:52 PM
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Best way is to go into current data and watch parameters as throttle actuated.. should reflect couple tenths of volt at idle position (throttle closed) with smooth rise in voltage as throttle open to approx 4.5-5.0v at wide open throttle..

Ideally you need to be able to scan for DTC to see what PCM see for circuit fault, you'll go broke and get angry hanging expensive parts that may just compound your original concern..

2.4L,, Crank Position sensor fault with age, coils burn up and leak voltage out the winding body, tach work, stutter ?

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Last edited by sbr711; 01-14-2017 at 06:56 PM.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Yep, Tach works, no stutter, but I have been noticing recently that when I come to a stop sign or slow up to idle, that is seems like the headlights get dimmer until I accelerate. I'm guessing that would be the alternator. I have a father in law that's ASE certified, but doesn't know hyundais at all, and was told to charge the battery over night then drive it to see if it fixed the issue and it did not. Would a weak alternator cause these issues? I'm starting to wonder as I'm sitting here typing. haha!!
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 11:48 AM
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Yes a weak alternator could be part of the problem, @dougmcp called that one and gave you good info. That doesn't explain why you can't connect to the OBD2 port, sounds like a short to the 12V power supply for the OBD2 connector.
Thanks for updating the thread.
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-15-2017, 12:39 PM
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12.69 volt running = dead alternator... should see ideally 14.2-14.6v running

Add loads and start bringing voltage down into the 10v range,, modules start acting funny, as we need 10.5 I think it is to turn on the control modules

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 01-16-2017, 05:13 PM
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Oh yeah, That would cause it. I had the alternator go out on a Taurus I owned, and that transmission was acting very badly... fixed the alternator, and bam! Fixed the issue. I would also make sure all connections are good, clean and tight.
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