Good Crank/Have Fuel pressure/NO IGNITION
Hello fellow Hyundai users/owners.
First I must say I have learned much from all the posts in this forum. I am not a mechanic, just one with common sense with an analytical mindset.
I am attempting to repair my sons 2004 Sonata EF 2.4L Manual Transmission:
I have read all posts relating to the no fuel/spark issues, and I am now leaning towards ECM/ECU replacement. Also leaning towards a used one due to financial situation.
I will start with my Question? Will any ECM from another 2004 Sonata Hyundai EF with manual transmission swap out without reprogramming or any other needs?
Here is where my problem began. Driving to work and vehicle just shut down. Seemed like a lack of fuel, slight sputtering, then just dead.
Vehicle WILL crank over, yet no ignition of fuel. Left for an hour or so..then restarted fine. Revved up for a few minutes..all good...sputtered and died a few hundred feet down the road.
Started my investigation:
1) Checked, double checked, then rechecked and verified that ALL engine compartment and passenger compartment fuses are GOOD.
Fuel pump getting voltage, checked all wiring all good.
Fuel pump pressurizing fine(found this out as I removed the supply to engine..sprayed all over) Interestingly like many other users I could NOT find a separate fuel filter as shown in my ALL DATA schematics. Traced entire line inch by inch...NOT there. Must be combined on the top of pump assembly...or this vehicle only relies on the "sand filter" attached to bottom of pump? Also there is NO separate fuel pump relay for the manual trans, as it combined with the engine control relay or ECR.
3) Injection diagnosis:
Followed ALL DATA testing and inspection of ignition coil. Checked all wiring harnesses for loose wiring..all good.
Initiated "spark test"..removing coil pack, remove spark plug, reinstall plug on coil, grounding plug to ground, have helper(wife)crank over engine...NO SPARK!!! hmmmm, a place to start!
Primary coil resistance specs=0.78 actual =0.57
Secondary coil resistance specs= approx 20k Ohms, Actual=20.2/20.9k respectively.
Spark plug wires resistance: specs=5.6k Ohms/m =- 20%, Actual=5.7/5.4k respectively.
Power supply to injector harness = battery voltage good!
Spark plug looked good, proper gap. ALL GOOD!
I am getting a DTC of P0335(checked with my new INNOVA 3140 OBD1&2 scan tool) which is the CPK or Crank Position Sensor.
Hmm.. didn't really want to deal with its removal due to amount of work.
Marked all belts and pulleys and removed CPK. Followed ALL DATA CPK test and procedures..IE Battery voltage to harness, ground to ECM less than ohms, ECM disconnect and ground resistance to CPK harness= open circuit as specified, disconnect CPK, ECM connected ignition ON, voltage to CPK harness terminal 2 approx 5v..ALL GOOD. Ending answer from ALL DATA...replace CPK. CPK replaced with NEW.
While I was at inspected all belts...Timing belt bad, Alt belt bad, AC belt bad, balance belt good...Replaced all four. Followed ALL DATA and Hyundai USA instruction manuals for timing belt replacement. applied and replied all belts till ALL timing marks were in perfect sync.(even made my own "tool to hold Cams in place.. two small pieces of old timing belt, epoxy to two small wedges, worked great.)
Reassembled all, cleared code… can hear fuel pump working/smell fuel to injectors, engine cranks…NO SPARK, NO IGNITION, NO CAR START? Hmmmmm.
CPK code comes up again? Hmmm, apparently no 4 second CPK and or CMP sensor signal.
Move on to Camshaft Position Sensor. CMP getting Battery voltage, resistance from ECM /CMP terminal ground less than 1 ohm..good! CMP harness to ground less than ohms.. Good. Hmmmm.
Just in case checked the IFS Ignition failure sensor:
Readings good…yet replaced any way as I was getting desperate. Good crank STILL NO SPARK/ NO IGNITION.
Broke out the electrical schematics: MFI Control / Power Distribution / Starting System…can’t see anything I really missed. Can You???
One final thing I should mention. The vehicle was in a minor fender bender. The drivers front panel was badly damaged as was the inner wheel cover housing. When I got the vehicle, the plastic molded wheel well cover was severely damaged and appeared to be rubbing against the engine compartment junction harness leading into the passenger compartment block. No wires are severed or visually damaged. Did a quick continuity test by poking the wires at far ends…all good, no breaks or shorts.
Also I have not be able to gain access to the Engine Control Relay to check. It receives power from main fuse..it sends power to Fuel pump, it sends power to the Injector fuse, and all those are getting power. which leads me to the only logical conclusion that it is OK. ( I do not want to disassemble the counsel to get to it. I can see it touch it..just cannot remove.)
Thank you very much for any help you may provide. I guess I am looking for validation to my findings as I am not a certified mechanic. Also I posted this to help others with a step by step on things to check if they may be experiencing the same issues..