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oil drain plug problems

14K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  avisitor 
#1 ·
I went to a brand name garage to get an oil change and state inspection.
A few days later, there is oil dripping from the car and all over the drive way.
Took a rag and wiped the suspect areas. Found the oil drain plug was loose and tightened it with my hand.
Then, went to get a wrench to tighten it. It was stripped. The plug went round and round with out much effort.
Called up the garage where I had the oil change. They pretended like it was all because the drain pan is
all aluminium that the threads stripped easy.

Now, I got to figure a way to fix this?
Will heli coils work?
Or should I find a way to drill and tap a bigger hole with threads and then look for the bolt that will work?

The manual says that the plug is a M14 x 1.5
The auto parts store only have the M14 x 1.25 heli coil repair kit
Can I use a M14 x 1.25 heli coil without drilling and re-tapping the hole?
 
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#2 ·
Well, went on youtube to search for solutions
One person said to buy a longer bolt and cut it so it is twice the length and use that.
That is fine if you still have threads left.

No one used helicoils on drain plugs.
But, they did use over sized drain plugs.
Didn't know they had this.
Will check out AZ tomorrow to see if they have them in the store.
 
#5 ·
That old - a - bomber,, need to know it had the short plug in it which eventually rips first section of threads out (some time in long lost past),, as alloy for pan is soft, and flunkie hang on wrench, or what ever tool to tighten plug..

Hyundai come along with longer plug that grip more threads, but that usually didnt happen till tech at dealer find front ripped out, add long plug, and car then get "quickie" changes for next few yrs, and shows up with plug that tight coming all way out of hole since now it has ripped the rear section of threads out.. been there... especially on a Saturday, old ratty XD, oil change waiter.... plug snug-grtty coming out.. knew right where that going,,, oil draining out, and no threads to put plug back in..

She got new oil pan,, swapped it Saturday, let goo cure till Monday morning, refill with oil, bye-bye car
 
#4 ·
I have Heli-Coil'd a number of pan at previous dealer.. part Mgr wasnt happy, he lost $250 oil pan and tube of goo sale..

You want 14x1.50 coil set.. probably 3/4 (19mm) coil length.. Coil set will cost you just less than 1/2 cost of new oil pan.

Look at drain plug, is it a short reach that pull out front section, or the replacement long reach ??

Go to local Hyundai or Kia dealer part dept and buy drain plug if short..

I have torque wrench set at 35 with 6pt socket on it, pull --> "CLICK",, all done
 
#7 ·
A new oil pan is out of the question.
My wife has had enough of spending money to fix this car so that it keeps running.
She wants to buy a new car ... we just don't have the money for that.
But, this morning, on the radio, some Hyundai dealer was leasing the new Elantras for $99.00/month

Al I want to do is fix this little problem and drive on ...
Not spend more money that I don't have.

The over sized plug is like only 5 bucks at AZ
And will probably last longer than the car will ... lol
 
#9 ·
Understand that it is an aluminum pan ...

The oversized drain plug is essentially a sheet metal screw - they work great in stamped steel pans - I doubt it would even thread into an aluminum pan.

I'm also not sure you can use a heli-coil in an aluminum pan, but I'm not sure of that - actually, there are inserts for head bolts on aluminum engines, so you likely can, but the thread-sert tool to install them is expensive.

Rubber expansion plug idea is probably the best bet if you just want a cheap fix until you can sell the car.
 
#12 ·
I think it is 14mm

Not sure if 1/2-inch will work, but I would think so.

You might print one of those out and check Home Depot or similar.
Wow, did not think of those things.
Thanks for giving me another option.
However, I am thinking of just using an over sized plug.
Saw on-line at N... Auto Parts for one which has another screw inside of the plug.
So the over sized plug stays put once installed and the screw in the middle of it is used to drain the oil.
 

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#13 ·
As I said before - those work fine with a stamped steel pan.

With an aluminum pan, I don't think the oversized plug will be able to cut new threads in the pan, and if it does, it's likely to leave aluminum shavings in the oil.

I could see MAYBE using that if you were going to drop the pan and use some JB Weld on the threads and clean the pan from inside before you re-install it, but if you are going to that much trouble, you might as well just get a replacement pan from a junkyard and fix it properly.
 
#14 ·
Go back to the shop and don't take no for an answer. If they are responsible for stripping the plug, they owe you a new pan. I would get a print out for cost of a new pan and tube of sealant and present them with it. Tell them you want to be made whole. They owe you. Then take elsewhere to repair or install the new pan yourself. That's my take on it at least.
 
#15 ·
#16 ·
a helicoil is a reasonable permanent fix, as is a longer threaded bolt. Do your own oil change from now on and tighten only to 5-7 ft.lbs or 70 inch pounds... a great temp fix is to wrap the existing steel plug with several layers of teflon tape. That will allow it to be tightened slightly without leaking. stick with the low torque. there is no pressure on that bolt and it only has to resist gravity leak.
 
#17 ·
Aluminium is a soft metal and will take the over sized plug.
I plan on putting loc-tite on it to hold it in place after I have cut the threads.

The problem with aluminium oil pans is the threads will eventually strip if too much torque is put on the plug.
Unfortunately, one can't tell when it was done until after it leaks
I have gone to those quick oil change guys and this brand name garage .. so it is hard to say who messed up first
And for 5 dollars and change, I'm just going to put this plug in today.
I'm off early from work and have the time to do it.

A new pan sounds like a good fix ... until I realize that it will happen again .. especially with the people I use to change the oil
Figure for 20 dollars, I get 5 quarts of oil and an oil filter .. its okay. It would cost me more if I did it myself.

Teflon tape sounds like a great temporary fix.
If it weren't for having to take the oil out and put it back in .. I would have done that already.

Thanks everyone for the great advice.
 
#19 ·
I tried to put the over sized plug in and I just couldn't line up the threads.
So, I opted for teflon tape this time. The leak has stopped or at least for now.
Cardboard under it to check for leaks.

Guess, I will put that oversize in the next time.
I was afraid to drive it in if it wasn't lined up right
That would have caused more headaches.
 
#20 ·
OE drain plug..

Nail paint is not me, I forgot to get pic till after most all the help gone, I had to have cashier girl hold plug for me so I could get pic..

Screw it up with "oversize" plug, you in for more trouble.. either replace pan with proper plug, or "coil" the thing and use torque wrench @ 30 for the rest of your days

 

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#21 ·
Hours later and the teflon is still holding strong .. no leaks.
The over sized plug makes the most sense if the plug was exactly the right over size.
Side by side with the drain plug and it looks close
But, when trying to put it in, the fit was way too tight.
Afraid to drive it in and cause more problems.
So, teflon tape made sense. I used a lot of it on a plumbing project (brother in law's bathroom remodel)
May decide to stick with it. It doesn't make the hole any bigger.

Note: the plug/bolt is definitely not OEM
it was longer and shined from the chrome on it.
 
#22 ·
Just so I understand, and to mention options ...

I'm a big fan of the Fumoto valve, but ...

- you removed the drain plug to install the teflon tape. To do that, you would have lost all the oil and either did an oil change - minus filter, or re-used the oil oil (preferably not).

Going forward - seems like the easiest/cheapest solution is to DIY and then re-tape the drain plug each time.

Or you could install a Fumoto valve (maybe with teflon tape if needed) and be done with it also - no plug to remove so no teflon tape to re-apply.
 
#24 ·
F106N | Fumoto® Engine Oil Drain Valves

I've had them on most of my cars.

Very convenient if you DIY and you never have to remove the plug again. (If you don't DIY, you might have to explain to the shop what it is and how to use it.)

But if you are selling the car, it might not be worth the expense (although if you get another Hyundai, it would probably work with it.)

I thought I would install one on my Accent, but the drain is low and in the front, so I'll go with a Stahlbus - which is similar.
 
#25 ·
Used a sparkplug helicoil kit to fix stripped drain plug

Someone stripped the drain plugin on my 2002 Elantra but I can't say for sure who!

Here is how I resolved the issue...

I bought a sparkplug helicoil kit and an new drain plugin to match.
It worked great... M14 x 1.25

The kit contains a tool that cuts out the old threads and then creates clean new threads. Then installed a helicoil to match the size of the new drain plug (the only thing I forgot was the Loctite but so far the helicoil has stayed put) It came with a tool to widen the outside edge of the helicoil to help lock it in place.

This is what the kit looks like:

http://i.walmartimages.com/i/mp/MP/10/00/67/02/MP10006702246_P290721_500X500.jpg

Take care to remove all the aluminum filings that are created by cutting new threads... I removed the tool plenty of times to clean it. Don't want to leave any filings to circulate in the engine. Much easier than replacing the oil pan!

**I also had to buy a new drain plug to match the helicoil but now I do my own oil changes and use a torque wrench.. no more leaks!
 
#26 ·
Yeah, I saw those helicoil kits in the auto parts store.
The bolt in the oil pan is a M14 X 1.5 and the kit is M14 X 1.25
The thread pitch is small and thought the tap would make new threads but would need a new bolt to match.
Just very weary of all the filings from cutting new threads.

Have thought that the helicoil is made of steel which would provide for better thread wear /longer life
SBR711 said that is the way to go.
So far I like the teflon tape. I don't have to spend so much money nor do I have to spend so much time under the car.
It also allows me the option of doing the helicoils later when the weather warms up again
 
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