Temp Needle Going to Red Zone - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
#1 Old 01-20-2012, 12:23 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
sumit381
(Thread Starter)
Temp Needle Going to Red Zone

I have a 2005 Elantra GLS with a couple thousand miles over 100K. There is what appears to be an overheating issue with my car. When I'm driving it in city driving usually less than 45 MPH, the heater blows cold air. However, on the highway (greater than 50 MPH) it blows hot air and the temp needle stays in the normal range (just below the halfway point between hot and cold and more towards the cold). However, when I slow down and come to city speeds, the temp needle starts to rise and the heater blows cold air. The needle went to the red zone this morning but as soon as it got to the red zone, it slowly came back down to the normal point (within 2-3 seconds). And @ the same time, the heater started blowing warm/hot air like it would be functioning normally. When the needle got the red zone, my car didn't stop or I didn't see smoke coming from the hood or anything like. It was almost like something (maybe thermostat) tripped and allowed the engine to cool.

After doing some research on this, the potential issues point to thermostat, coolant level, radiator crack. I haven't checked how the coolant level is doing but I will check that this weekend. Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you.
sumit381 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 Old 01-20-2012, 01:06 PM
Senior Member
 
sbr711's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: hiding from those who might be looking for me
Posts: 8,695
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
sbr711 is an unknown quantity at this point
STOP DRIVING IT !!!!!

You'll need head//engine if you keep it up..2.0 not a heat friedly engine


Replace the thermostat, look for upper hose to leak at back of head, clean the joint and use #20 clamp.

Look at radiator upper tank for leak, they crack all the time.

Look at the fill neck where cap seats, is the raised ring clean and defined, or is it white/grey melted looking.

In all, verify the cooling system hold pressure (use tester)..

<--- please fill in the 'location' and 'what you drive' boxes on your personal profile page.
This information makes it much easier for other members to answer/comment on your posts.
sbr711 is offline  
#3 Old 01-20-2012, 06:28 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
sumit381
(Thread Starter)
Thanks for the reply. When I drove home today, the car seemed to function fine. The temp needle stayed in the normal position..didn't even go past the halfway mark between hot and cold.

I opened the hood after the drive and the radiator fans were running fine. I did notice white residue on the 90degree hose below the upper radiator hose. And there was white residue on the upper radiator hose where it lead back to the head. I am currently looking on autozone's website for replacement hoses. Their site has several hoses for my car listed below

Hose (Bypass)
Hose (Heater)
Hose (Lower)
Hose (Upper)

Which hoses do I need to replace? Also, is there any other name for that #20 clamp. I'm trying to find it on autozone's website but cant?

Also, I want to replace the thermostat so I will get that too. I looked @ the top of the radiator but didn't really notice any cracks but it was dark outside so I will look again in the morning to double check.

I checked the radiator cap too and I didn't notice anything abnormal with it. I will check these things again in the morning and check the coolant level when there's daylight.

Please advise which hoses I should buy?

Thank you again.

Last edited by sumit381; 01-20-2012 at 06:36 PM.
sumit381 is offline  
#4 Old 01-20-2012, 10:49 PM
PLP
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Haslett, MI, USA, Earth
Posts: 998
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
PLP is an unknown quantity at this point
do not get hoses yet as hoses more likely will not correct the issue.
Do not get the thermostat either.

The thermostat is not a problem as when you are driving on highway the temperature is OK, right? But when you slow down, it rises... unless, what is unlikely, the thermostat is intermittent problem

Check the following.
First, where do you live? Could you add this info to your profile?

Take the car for a short drive (like 2-3 minutes). Park it and let it idle.

Is the whole radiator hot? Is the upper hose hot? (I am sure it is)

Observe the following:
is the lower part of radiator getting hot (I am almost sure it is), is the lower hose getting hot (upper/lower - to and from radiator).
Finally, when the temperature is about to go beyond the half mark - can you see the radiator fans spinning?
I bet you do not...

Other possible causes
- damage to radiator (clogged/bent fins)
- weak water pump (although I doubt this one)

And last question - do you use A/C? If so - is it working fine?
PLP is offline  
#5 Old 01-20-2012, 11:20 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
sumit381
(Thread Starter)
Thanks for your input PLP. To answer your questions:

I live in Michigan.

"when you are driving on highway the temperature is OK, right? But when you slow down, it rises"
Yes that is correct.

Also, I'm not sure about the A/C but it was working fine over the summer. I will try out the things you mentioned on Saturday.

When I got back from work after highway driving and got to my driveway, I put the car in Park and opened the hood. Both the radiator fans were spinning and I didnt experience any unusual behavior as far as the needle going to the red zone this time.
sumit381 is offline  
#6 Old 01-21-2012, 10:29 AM
PLP
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Haslett, MI, USA, Earth
Posts: 998
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
PLP is an unknown quantity at this point
where exactly do you live in Michigan?
Still, a ZIP code, or city/state/country would greatly help in future as cars differ from country to country... and also weather affects the troubleshooting.

In Alaska I would not really consider A/C as a problem... while in Florida heating is not really an issue...
PLP is offline  
#7 Old 01-22-2012, 04:12 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
sumit381
(Thread Starter)
Hey, PLP. I live in Novi.
sumit381 is offline  
#8 Old 01-22-2012, 04:52 PM
PLP
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Haslett, MI, USA, Earth
Posts: 998
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
PLP is an unknown quantity at this point
why I was asking, if you were from UP, it is possible (if it was cold enough) you got kind of frozen coolant in radiator. It would not be rock solid frozen, it would be rather kind of slush or so... It happened to a friend of mine. But it was -35C overnight...

update about your tests.

And fill out your profile, please.
PLP is offline  
#9 Old 01-26-2012, 10:12 AM
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Novi, MI
Posts: 34
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
sumit381
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by PLP View Post
Is the whole radiator hot? Is the upper hose hot? (I am sure it is)
I touched the upper part of the radiator and that was warm to the touch (not so hot that I couldn't touch it). The upper hose was also hot.

Observe the following:
is the lower part of radiator getting hot (I am almost sure it is), is the lower hose getting hot (upper/lower - to and from radiator).
I wasnt sure where to check this one. But I felt the 2 hoses going into the engine block and they were both hot.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PLP View Post
Finally, when the temperature is about to go beyond the half mark - can you see the radiator fans spinning?
I bet you do not...
After driving it to work this morning (20 mins of highway driving + 5 mins of city street driving), the fans were not spinning when I parked the car and it should shut off. Should I have checked the fans while the car was on? (cause sometimes fans can spin up after car is shut off) When I parked my car, the needle was in the normal range, but there was cold air coming out instead of hot air (hot air still comes out when highway driving).


Quote:
Originally Posted by PLP View Post
And last question - do you use A/C? If so - is it working fine?
It's winter here in Michigan now, so no I don't currently use the A/C. But it did work fine in the summer altough it takes 4-5 minutes before the air gets cold.


I checked the coolant overflow bottle after driving this morning and the coolant was below the L mark. And when the car is cold, I opened the radiator cap and I didn't see any coolant in there, I saw the aluminum part inside but I did notice that rubber gasket inside the cap was wet with coolant. Also another thing to note is that I have not done much maintenance on the car like sparkplug change or coolant flush.

Thanks for your help and advise.
sumit381 is offline  
#10 Old 01-26-2012, 09:37 PM
PLP
Banned
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Haslett, MI, USA, Earth
Posts: 998
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
PLP is an unknown quantity at this point
All right.

First thing - add coolant. At least to the MAX mark, if not even above. Add some coolant to COLD radiator.
Do NOT drive until you fill it.
Second, check if you have a small rubber pipe connecting the small tip on the left hand side on the neck where the radiator cap is installed with the coolant bottle. If it is, check for any cracks.
Another thing is if the cap on the bottle has another similar size tubing going down to the bottle.

You MUST have both tubes. If you do NOT, then get them. Otherwise, you car will overheat as the reservoir serves as the coolant reserve/overflow. Heat expands both metal and liquid, excess will drain to bottle. When cold - coolant will return to radiator.
Makes sense?



YES, fans should turn on when engine is running. I meant, let it get hot, if both hoses are hot - good news. Next, after you parked, let it IDLE until either: fans kick on or the needle go above half mark. In case of above half mark - cool off engine by running heater on max speed.


If you ever get to Lansing area, let me know, I can help you diagnose the problem.


Could you elaborate - you do NOT get heat? Recheck the heating after refilling coolant.

A/C - 5 minutes to start cooling? It does not sound right... but lets forget about it now.
PLP is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Random Question


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome