Guys I Really Need Help, 2003 Hyun Elantra Loss Of Power Big Time..,. - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 07:57 AM Thread Starter
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nafeasonto
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Guys at this point I do not know what is going on.

This is the following what has done to my car:

I did all this work, except when I indicate.

1. Spark plugs changed.
2. Wires changed
3. I changed my fuel filter
4. Cold air intake, on the intake with perfectly clean filter
5. Alternator is less the a year old
6. Battery is older, but not super old.
7. Water pump replaced and timing belt
8. Valve stems replaced (not by me)
9. Head gasket redone (not by me)
10. Compression test was ran and came out fine (not by me)

I have a humango loss of power when accelerating, and it's random. Sometimes I can accelerate nicely, other time I feel like the car just doesn't want to move. Especially on a roll, I just move like a snail.

Sometimes it's on a dead stop and it's completely random, other times it's constant. It makes no sense.

Also lately, out of NO where my car will start bucking for a few seconds, at the same time the check engine light (it's on due to a bad VSS for ABS ((but I don't have ABS)) will go off, my dash lights will go off, and the trans rpm will go down all the way. The car feels like it just will shut off, but it stops after a few seconds and the car regains power and the lights turn back on. I have NEVER seen this happen before. The transmission has never slipped and I have felt a bad tranny before, this is not it. THis seems like a power loss or short of some kinds. It's like half of the dash will go off. Pressing on the gas does NOTHING. It doesn't respond until it gets over it's "cough".

If my AC on forget about it. You see everyone at the traffic light passing me, and this is with almost me flooring the car. It's like my car goes down to 40hp. So I don't know what is going on.

The only thing electrical that I can personally think of that i have no replaced yet is the COIL PACK. HOWEVER I mentioned the Check Engine light before, I checked the codes everyday. NO NEW codes. Even after reset of the ECU (Disconnecting the batter) the light will come on for the same code.

So wtf is going on, anyone know why the car is suffering a great deal loss of power?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 10:22 AM
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OTTOMH, possibly shorted crankshaft position sensor or clogged catalytic converter.


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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 10:48 AM Thread Starter
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nafeasonto
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what does OTTOMH mean?
lol

The CAT on the exhaust line as replaced. If it's the front CAT then i am REALLY screwed. That is REALLY expensive, I can do it myself with a few cuss words, it's getting the part is the issue.

But i am going to start the cheap way and replace the Crankshift sensor first. I'll keep you updated. Thanks!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-03-2011, 11:37 AM
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OTTOMH = Off the top of my head


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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-04-2011, 10:46 AM Thread Starter
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nafeasonto
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I replace the sensor. There is no random jerking anymore thanks for that.

However, what I have noticed is this if it's HOT out. And once the car gets hot to it's normal operating Temp. The acceleration sucks. When it's cool, the acceleration is great. What would be causing this at this point if so much has been replaced and fixed. Would the car acclerate like crap at hotter weather because of the front CAT, I don't see how that makes sense?
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 05-17-2015, 09:19 PM
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ever figure this out? Im having the same issue and have replaced most of the same. Like you, its only an issue when hot out, but thats because im only running the AC when its hot and thats when the problem is most noticeable.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 11:31 AM
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check the catalytic converter might be going
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 06-01-2015, 11:57 AM
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Garage
It's illegal, your state may fail you in state car inspections and the car may throw a CEL, but if you are strapped for cash you can remove that cat and gut it. It is not optimal, but at least remove it and inspect it and clean it up if it is clogged.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 10-25-2016, 07:50 PM
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2001 Hyundai Elantra Owner here with the exact same symptoms, SOLVED for me! Car started fine, idled a little rough but barely noticeable. Would accelerate decent for the 1st 1/4 mile or so, then would lose power. RPM's wouldn't go over 3,000 and could not get it above 40 MPH. Would barely make it up hills. Codes given: p1166, 0120, 0422, 0136, 0130. Had cleared some codes along the way. Basically the codes were saying both 02 sensors were indicating rich conditions, there was an issue with my throttle sensor, there was a problem with my catalytic converter. This is how I solved it

-Took off heat shield from main catalytic converter. Saw cracks in the exhaust manifold. Remembered there was a recall from campaign V04. Called Hyundai of America and asked if they would honor it. They set up an appointment at my local Hyundai dealer to verify my claims. They installed a new Catalytic converter. Problem remained

-Changed upstream o2 sensor. Problem remained
-Changed downstream o2 sensor. Problem remained
-Did a voltage check on the throttle sensor. Throttle sensor was working properly
-Removed spark plug cover and noticed oil around spark plug wires. Proceeded to install new valve cover gaskets, spark plug gaskets, change spark plugs, change wires. Problem remained
-Removed fuel injector bank. Made a make shift cleaner after watching a youtube video. Each fuel injector opened with test voltage. Each injector streamed properly with makeshift cleaner and voltage applied. Problem remained
-Went to Autozone and rented fuel pressure kit. Disconnected the fuel line entering fuel bank and cut some line and retrofitted the gauge with the provided T in the kit and some fuel hose and hose clamps. Fuel pressure read 48 psi on ignition on. Fuel pressure read 48 psi with engine idle. Put a small 2x4 under the hood and routed gauge to window and drove around. Car continued to drive like garbage but the fuel pressure never dropped below 48 psi or went above 48 psi. Car held the pressure for 15 minutes after shut off (this meant no leaky injectors which is a problem of running rich) sigh. Problem remained
-Used a $10 odb2 plugin bluetooth scanner that my wife bought off amazon for my birthday with the torque app and put up some real time gauges. This included Intake pressure, Vacuum, o2 bank one sensor voltage, throttle percentage, rpms, fuel trim short term, fuel trim long term, and fuel trim. I didn't really know what I was looking for since I never used this before. What stood out as I drove around was that my Vacuum would keep dropping to about 1 whenever I accelerated. Even if the throttle was only open like 10% or as much as 60%. I found this odd and thought that it shouldn't just go all the way down to 1 no matter what the throttle was. I don't know if I would have saw this sitting in the driveway idled. I drove around while running this app and that is when I noticed the vacuum number going to 1. I google vacuum pressures and found out that if the vacuum goes between 1 and 5 consistently when driving and accelerating, there is most likely an EXHAUST BLOCKAGE.
I went outside and luckily there were 2 nice new bolts and nuts allowing me to easily separate the newly installed catalytic converter (Hyundai recall) to my old existing pipe which includes the secondary catalytic converter, the center pipe and then the muffler. Once separated, I started the car (very loud because muffler is out of the system) and drove off. Full power restored!!!!! Transmission was shifting through gears like it should! Problem solved!!! There is an exhaust restriction somewhere after my new catalytic converter. Decided to ebay the secondary cat, the center pipe, and muffler and got it all for under $290.

If you know someone who understand diagnostic numbers, they should be able to figure this out without throwing tons of money at parts with no fix. For me, the internet, the odb2, the torque app, some luck and persistence got me to the finish line.
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