…for those of you who are wondering
…with 39,000+ miles on my Azera, as well as being a technician in a number of different fields for well over 25 years, I just HAD to do it…if nothing else out of curiosity just to see if the Fuel Filter DID in fact need replacing…in addition, I’d like to pass on some information that isn’t specifically mentioned in the hmaservice-dot-com Shop Instructions:
- the Fuel Filter [p/n 31911-3L000] replacement took a total of 90 minutes to replace, most of which was spent carefully removing all the retainers, the pump, clips, o-rings, spacers, connectors, AND LEVEL/FLOAT SENSOR ASSY etc from the OLD unit in order to assemble a newly-filtered assembly
- removal & reinstallation is clearly easiest from the passenger compartment [driver’s side] with the rear seats folded down…would also suggest performing OUTDOORS in order for the fumes to dissipate unless you AND your family enjoy the smell of gasoline…place a piece of cardboard underneath as well so you don’t stain your driveway substrate.
** WARNING **
- after removing the Fuel Pump Connector [A] and waiting until the engine stalls, it is implied that the rest of the fittings & connectors can be removed without regard for any stored hazardous energy as there is no mention otherwise [THIS IS WRONG, or at the very least incomplete and should be corrected]. THERE IS STILL PRESSURE IN THE FUEL FEED QUICK-CONNECTOR [to the tune of 1 – 1.5 cups of fuel under pressure] – BE CAREFUL. Lift the retainer on the Quick-Connectors and then slide off the respective tube making sure to have some rags around the Fuel Feed tube to absorb the forthcoming pressurized fuel.
** END OF WARNING **
- BEFORE performing Step 3 “Unfasten the fuel pump mounting bolts (E) and remove the fuel pump assembly”… be advised that, you will also need to remove the mounting bracket on the Fuel Tank Level Sensor [10mm nut] and then move to the side…this will allow you to lift the Fuel Pump/Filter/Float Assy cleanly from the fuel tank…BE CAREFUL of the FLOAT and the SUCTION SCREEN as they are very delicate so you may need to change your lifting angle a few times in order to remove the complete assembly without damaging it.
- here’s where the fun starts:
- unless you have a complete [pump/filter/float] assembly you will need to remove & transfer:
- lower retainer clip for fuel pressure regulator
- float assy
- fuel pump
- return manifold [proper name?] assy
- don’t forget to reattach the fuel pump & float electrical connections to the newly assembled assembly [wow, that sounded bad…but you’ll feel good getting it all done without breaking any plastic clips or forgetting/losing any o-rings]
- NOW you’re ready to INSTALL, and YES, from here it is the reverse of the removal EXCEPT, what Hyundai doesn’t tell you is that [in my case] I threw a Check Engine Light ..no bother I figured, once started [took a few seconds] I could shut it down, disconnect the battery in order to clear the CEL and be done with it…not that case…it didn’t clear.
- Knowing that my Actron CP9125 code reader/clearer was manufactured YEARS before my Azera, I thought “I may not be able to read the code, but “ might be able to clear it”…so was the case. My attempt at reading the code was futile but my trusty CP9125 was able to clear the code [connects just under dash below steering wheel] just fine.
...so, do I think it needed replacing ?? ...…YES, for 2 reasons:
 the obvious…the fine print in the Hyundai warranty
 after removing the filter element from the OLD filter with the aid of a hacksaw [and ok, my 4lb BFH], I discovered a paper element [about 4” tall by 3 feet long] that was BLACK. The color of the paper element was itself a manilla/light brown color [as determined by a quick shot of BraKleen in one spot]. Knowing that I purchase fuel from either Irving or Sunoco, I know my fuel supply is generally pretty clean…but I simply don’t have an answer for the filter [err debris] color short of running it through a plasma spectroscopy tool at work [they might frown on that] in order to determine it’s elemental origin. I DO know that it WASN’T magnetic as I couldn’t lift anything off the filter with a couple of high-strength neodymium magnets recycled from some old hard drives
 ok, so I have a 3rd reason [as mentioned in a previous post [ fuel tank air filter], I didn’t want to have to replace the filter in the middle of a NH winter (replacing plastic parts in the winter isn’t very much fun when you have to bend or push back clips as part of the removal or reinstall…as some readers are all to familiar with)
…to “the cause”