Headlights Dim Fixed - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
 
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#1 Old 04-12-2010, 09:27 AM
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heypal
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About a year after I purchase my 2006 Azera Limited my headlights started to dim while I was driving. Mostly when I had the heater or air on or when I put my break lights on. They would dim for a second or two. I was concerned because while driving on dark roads they would just start to dim and go bright again and cars coming the other way would flash their lights at me.

So I took it to the dealer. Of course when I took it to the dealer it was always during the day. They tested the car on a computer said there was nothing wrong. I knew there was something wrong because it did happen when I drove at night.

The problem kind of went away during the summer and it wasn't until my battery went dead two years later when I left my trunk open that the problem was fixed. I went back to the dealer and bought a battery. I did get ripped off on the price of a battery. Whatever they did fixed the dimming problem. It appears that they put a new harness around my battery replacing the old one. The service teck said that the harness most likely was the problem as dealers were having complains from Azera owners around the nation.

So now it has been a year and the Azera headlights have not dimmed one time. The suspension still clunks but that too isn't as bad or maybe I just don't notice anymore. Power steering makes a whine noise only when I first make a turn after starting the car in the morning. Not sure what is going on there but the dealer says everything is ok under the hood. Other that that not a problem with my Azera after 28,000 miles knock on wood.
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#2 Old 08-15-2011, 03:25 PM
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gregbr
Hi
I had this problem develop several months after buying a used 2006 Azera. Intermittently, the headlights would dim, the air conditioner and radio would cut out. There seemed to be no pattern to the problem, a real "ghost in the machine". I read about the TSB on this forum and checked my VIN with the dealer and was told that the TSB did not apply to my car. I took it to an independent mechanic who spent several hours "troubleshooting" the problem and wasn't able to find anything. I then took the car to another mechanic I'd had very good luck with.
He SOLVED the problem in the following way:
With a volt meter, he tested the positive terminal behind the alternator and compared it to the battery. There was a discrepancy of more than .2 volts. He concluded that there was a
problem SOMEWHERE in the harness between the alternator and the battery. He told me that there were several ways of dealing with this. He could laboriously test everything wired to the harness to find the exact location of the drop, which could take an enormous amount of time (time=money). He could start replacing likely electric components along the course of the harness (expensive and scattershot). Or he could simply connect a 4 gauge wire from the back terminal of the alternator directly to the positive terminal of the battery, after making sure that all the visible wiring and terminals were clean and tight. I told him to do the wire bypass. Several weeks later, this has solved the problem completely. I hope this helps someone else with the same problem.
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#3 Old 08-15-2011, 07:39 PM
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QUOTE
Quote:
With a volt meter, he tested the positive terminal behind the alternator and compared it to the battery. There was a discrepancy of more than .2 volts. He concluded that there was a problem SOMEWHERE in the harness between the alternator and the battery.




REPLACE the positive battery cable assembly... oldest one in the book... part number changed on the cable a couple yr ago..

Typically find an almost 2 volt difference between alternator lug and battery.

Remove the negative cable from fender, grind off paint to bare steel, apply some anti-seize to slow the rust, assemble cable back to fender... do same for ground strap at left frame rail adjacent to the batery tray.

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#4 Old 08-22-2011, 10:46 AM
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djd2713
I also had a problem with headlights dimming, radio and a/c cutting out. I tried the recommened fix by replacing the positive battery cable. I my case this did not fix the problem. I also had a reading before & after replacement of 12.8 volts coming off the alternator and battery voltage of 12.3 volt's. So I took the car to the local parts store for a battery/alternator test. Turns out that the alternator was fine, but battery only had 1/2 of the CCA Amps. Replaced the battery but problem still remained. Next I went under the hood and cleaned evey ground terminal I could find (removed battery, and air filter box). The ones I cleaned were battery to chassis, transmission ground cable (located on right side of engine compartment from front, ends under removed assemblies), motor ground cable (located on left side from front, on top of motor mount ends on inner fender). Also cleaned PCM ground (located on right side of engine compartment, appx 5 small black wires terminated on inner fender. Also cleaned 2 more small black wire grounds (did not trace back to see what they were for. After I cleaned all terminals and sanded paint off all painted parts I reassembled using Di-electric grease. It's been 2 months now and everything is great. Also electrical system sems stronger ( even my remote key fob is working better) and getting 14.5 volt reading from alternator with all heavy electrical loads running. I do beleive that anyone with minor mechanical apptitude and 10 & 12 mm wrench andsockets can perform this repair. I would try this before replacing the positive or for that matter any negative cables.
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#5 Old 08-22-2011, 10:53 PM
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kleaver641
QUOTE (djd2713 @ Aug 22 2011, 10:46 AM)
Quote:
I also had a problem with headlights dimming, radio and a/c cutting out. I tried the recommened fix by replacing the positive battery cable. I my case this did not fix the problem. I also had a reading before & after replacement of 12.8 volts coming off the alternator and battery voltage of 12.3 volt's. So I took the car to the local parts store for a battery/alternator test. Turns out that the alternator was fine, but battery only had 1/2 of the CCA Amps. Replaced the battery but problem still remained. Next I went under the hood and cleaned evey ground terminal I could find (removed battery, and air filter box). The ones I cleaned were battery to chassis, transmission ground cable (located on right side of engine compartment from front, ends under removed assemblies), motor ground cable (located on left side from front, on top of motor mount ends on inner fender). Also cleaned PCM ground (located on right side of engine compartment, appx 5 small black wires terminated on inner fender. Also cleaned 2 more small black wire grounds (did not trace back to see what they were for. After I cleaned all terminals and sanded paint off all painted parts I reassembled using Di-electric grease. It's been 2 months now and everything is great. Also electrical system sems stronger ( even my remote key fob is working better) and getting 14.5 volt reading from alternator with all heavy electrical loads running. I do beleive that anyone with minor mechanical apptitude and 10 & 12 mm wrench andsockets can perform this repair. I would try this before replacing the positive or for that matter any negative cables.
good for you you already fixed your issues! keep it up dude! my starex needs to be cleaned to. lol!

regards,

kurt
================================================== ==

"always use genuine and better body repair tools for your car to maintain performance and durability!"
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#6 Old 09-02-2011, 09:28 PM
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tonino1991
I bought an Xscorpion batery terminal and some 4awg wire...

I never had the headlights dim but when I set the air to max it dimmed my dash lights... now it works great at full load.








2008 Hyundai Azera 3.3 Liters V6
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