I need some help, the engine lost throttle control and would only idle. till the key was turned off. after that i could crank the engine over but no start. since then i have checked the ecu for codes. no abnormal codes. just the normal ecu code, high/low. i do not have a multiuse tester, so i probed the connector with my analog multimeter. i have since been chasing my tail, mighty fast too, i have replaced the power transistor, the ecu relay, the ignition coil - only one on this car, the distributor assembly, cap and rotor. the isc servo checks out ok and moves freely. the tps postion sensor check out ok. idle switch checks ok. mps sensor checks ok. the tdc sensor and crank sensor voltages check out ok. i have not found the correct answer. maybe someone could take me by the hand and lead in the right direction.. take me back to square one if that is what need to be done. i have missed something simple and just can't see it. thanks for any help. scott(westernfleetsupply)

WOHAA,
lets go back to basics !!!!!!
When you crank the engine over, is there spark ?? is there a an injector trigger signal ??

duke: i can crank the engine over. i do not have spark. as for the injector trigger signal i am at a loss as to how to determine that. i do know i have fuel getting into the cylinders as i have wet spark plugs. but tell me how to check the ignition trigger signal. thanks a bunch.

duke i should have said injector trigger signal vice ignition trigger signal. anyway walk me through the procedure formchecking the injector trigger signal. again thanks

Hi,
Sorry, that I did not replied sooner, but I am just back from a business trip to the USA.
NOW, you say that there is no spark. We have to check for the injection trigger signal, to narrow the problem possibilities. Each injector has 2-wires; one wire is 12-volt (with ignition on, and confirm it with a test light, and is the same colour as the other injectors), and the other wire is the ground/trigger signal from the ECM (different colour on each injector). Disconnect the connector, connect a test light to battery +, and touch the test light tip to the terminal; have someone crank the engine, does the light flicker dimly ??

DUKE THANKS FOR THE HELP. HOPE YOU HAD A GOOD TIME IN LA. SORRY IF I SEEMED IMPATIENT BUT I AM DOWN TO ONE CAR AND I AM NOW THE CAR POOL DRIVER. THE ONLY PROBLEM WITH THAT IS MY CARPOOL PARTNER GETS UP AT 3:00 AND I USUALLY GET UP AT 5:30. BUT THAT IS HOW LIFE SEEMS TO GO. I TESTED THE INJECTOR SIGNALS. ALL IS WELL HERE. I HAVE POWER TO ALL INJECTORS WITH THE KEY ON. I HAVE LIGHT FLICKERING WHILE CRANKING THE ENGINE. READY FOR THE NEXT PHASE. AGAIN HOPE YOUR TRIP WAS GOOD. THANKS SCOTT (WESTERNFLEETSUPPLY)

Woohaa, how easy one forgets, after all there are not many older Excel’s around anymore.
Try this one; by the intake manifold (where the accelerator cable is mounted) there is a small resistor (called “noise filter) mounted (it has a “T” type connector), just disconnect it, and start the engine. If the engine starts, then replace the “noise Filter”. You can drive the car, but the tachometer will not work, and the auto tranny may shift funny.

duke: tried disconnecting the noise filter. :D yahoo!!!!! i have spark. now the engine poofs and chugs but i have not got it started yet. i have a manual tranny if that helps. i know i have removed the distributor and replaced it as well as the ignition coil, power transitor and ecu relay. would the changing of the ignition coil from one brand to another have a consequence? i probably have the timing off a bit. the battery at this time is getting a bit low, should i charge it up and continue? i am ready o'exalted one. thanks scott(westernfleetsupply).

:D :D :D
one function of that filter is to reduce the coil current to the tachmeter, to prevent it from overloading.
since you messed with the distributor, it is most likely out of position. At least you now have spark, and if the timing is set correct again, charge the battery, you don't have to get up at 0300 anymore.

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

This post has been edited by duke: Jun 12 2005, 02:43 PM

duke: back again, not with great news but here goes. I replaced the noise filter or as hyundai calls it the relay w/diode. plugged it back in. set the timing to about tdc. cranked the engine and no fire. she wont start. checked the compression pressures, as follows #1 - 190, #2 - 190, #3 - 172, #4 - 204. I have spark because i can now use my timing light with inductive pick up. i just can't get it to fire. help me i have fallen and i can't get up!!! thanks for your help, scott(westernfleetsupply).

this may sound stupid but my 92 excel did the same thing and it was the coolant temp sensor. My problem only happen in the winter time at first it wouldn't start until it hit 0 degrees and then after a while it wouldn't start until 32 degrees. Sucks walking to work at -10 degrees.

:57: doc; been their done that, walking in the cold in chicago in january. thanks for the tip. but in this case it was not the problem. :D duke: thanks for your help and i now have a running car. it turns out the noise filter was the problem the whole time. the later part for not starting was simple forgetfulness on my part. a good lesson for the rest of us out there. like in jeapordy the answer is 180° out. the question is why the engine would not fire and run? i plume forgot that in the four stroke you have the timing mark comes around twice. i have been so used to two strokes that one forgets to go back to the basics. again thanks guys for your help. i would not have made it through without your assistance. so for a simple six dollar part i wasted a lot of time and energy not to mention money chasing my tail. :grin: :w00t: :w00t:

back again i will try to send a picture of this car you helped me fix scott (westernfleetsupply)