As you can tell, Im new, and I dont even drive a tiburon..lol.My girlfriend does however.She has a 06 base model 2.0 liter.Its just about to hit 60k and I am planning on changing her timing belt.Any car I have owned/built, I always do waterpump, idler/tensioning pulleys and any other relative compnents. My question is, what else do you guys change when you do yours?

I personally don't change anything else unless it needs it. If you want to change all the other stuff, that's up to you.

I find if you change the antifreeze regularly, then you won't need a new waterpump anytime soon.

As far as the tensioner, well probably that's a good thing. In your case, it's not spring loaded, so you only worry about the bearings. Unless the bearings are noisy, I wouldn't change them. On the other hand, the timing belt, idler pulley, tensioner kits are pretty cheap.

I don't mess with a seal unless it's bad. Change your oil on time.

I have ordered a manual but not yet got it.What is the tensioning system on the belt? Hydrolic? I understand what your saying about the whole "if its not broke don't fix it"" but to me, if the belt is already off and your there, you mmight as well replace things that are known to fail...like pulleys.That way, all compenents age equally, eliminating the possiblity of essentially doing the same job a number of times.

Ok well join the hmaservice site for complete instructions and diagrams. It's free.

Jsinton is quite right. I just had a quick look and everything you need to know is there.
I did mine at 90 000 km and changed the tensioner and idler pully as well.
The old ones felt fine, no funny noises. But they are not expensive and with my luck the buggers
would fail after a week or two.

To join hmaservice take a look at http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t2110-online...shop-manual.htm

It is free and as good as any workshop manual.

Dear 25,

Remembering that you are at 60K miles, you should inspect the water pump for leaks, squeals, growling noise, greenish white deposit below the pump shaft. You should inspect the auto tensioner for sufficient lift...the timing belt should not give when depressed, and the tensioner maintains the belt in tight condition. Idler pulley should turn freely with no drag, scraping or growling noise. It is highly unlikely that any of these items need replacing at 60k miles.

Byron

Finally got the parts delivered and started this.As expected, the crank pulley is siezed.I did a google search and only found that the crank pulley and gears have been known to size together therefor a puller isnt the best option...how else do I get this off?I read the 2.7l have a hole you can punch through to get the pulley free..I looked and didnt notice anything on this pulley...any ideas?

Take a look at http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t40521-help33.htm

Yeah I would say if you can do it yourself, just change the belt! But if your paying someone, have it all changed except for the water pump, since its not running off the timing belt! Water pump will get you a warning before going out!

Hi Vic!! That site you posted is dead, do you know of another free online manual? Thanks

This post has been edited by Mad_Max_46: Oct 27 2009, 06:22 AM

Saw that vic...this is on the 2.0 liter and I have not seen any such pin on the pulley do the two engines use different pulleys?
Oh and mad_max, don't give techinical advice when clearly you have no buissness doing so. Thanks!

LMAO @ that? I got the same car and know how it works, because its been done before! But NP kid, just tring to help!

Ok so tell me exactly how to remove the crank pulley? And exactly what have you done yourself, engine wise?

This post has been edited by 25psitalon: Oct 27 2009, 04:22 PM

Dear 25,

Looks like you are not getting the definitive advice that you deserve. To get the crank pulley off, I recommend an electric impact wrench. Putting the car in gear and blocking the wheels just ain't gonna get it. You can buy an electric impact wrench, a 12 inch impact rated extension, and a 22mm impact rated socket at Harbor Freight Tools for relatively cheap. The nice thing is you set your timing marks before attempting to remove the crank bolt, and the whole thing barely moves a 1/4 inch to remove the bolt....if you use an impact wrench. Once you get good at it, you can change an Elantra or Kia Spectra 2 liter timing belt in 20 minutes start to finish.

After the bolt is off, the pulley can be pried off gently by using a long wide blade screwdriver, working around to pry a little up at a time, keep working around the edge and prying, and the pulley will come off with no damage. For severe rust, you can use Liquid Wrench (preferred) or WD-40 at the junction of the shaft and inner hub of the pulley.

I have done everything on cars except a premier audio install (done lots of Kenwoods and JVCs), a fancy paint job prep(Maaco does better than me), and an automatic transmission rebuild (always wind up with two extra spacers or springs).

Byron

Byron

Thanks for the reply!I was actually just referring to removing the actual pulley.I had no issues with the bolt.Im pretty into building engines/cars in general so fortunately, I have a big air compressor with every air tool imaginable..lol.I had read on another forum about a guide pin that needed to be pounded out, and was unsure if that was only applicable to the 6 cyl. That pulley is one there, but I guess Ill just pull it apart and try again.I must say, with the exception of the stuck pulley, this is the easiest dual overhead cam timing job I have ever done. I just hate that the pulley isn't bolted to the crank sprocket, it makes it much easier to remove.

To remove:

1. Remove the engine cover.

2. Remove RH front wheel.

3. Remove 2 bolts and RH side cover .

4. Remove the engine mount bracket.

5. Set the jack to the engine oil pan.
NOTE
Place wooden block between the jack and engine oil pan.

6. Remove the bolt , 3 nuts and engine mount bracket .

7. Remove the bolt and stay plate .

8. Temporarily loosen the water pump pulley bolts.

9. Remove alternator belt.

10. Remove air compressor belt.

11. Remove power steering belt.

12. Remove 4 bolts and water pump pulley.

13. Remove the 4 bolts and timing belt upper cover.

14. Turn the crankshaft pulley, and align its groove with timing mark -T- of the timing belt cover.

15. Remove the crankshaft pulley bolt and crankshaft pulley .

16. Remove the crankshaft flange .

17. Remove the 5 bolts and timing belt lower cover .

18. Remove the timing belt tensioner and idler pulley.

19. Mark the timing belt with an arrow showing direction of rotation.

20. Remove the timing belt.

To Install:

1. Align the timing marks of the camshaft sprocket and check that the crankshaft timing marks are still in alignment.

2. Install the timing belt tensioner.

3. Install the idler pulley, if equipped. Tighten bolt to 32-41 ft. lbs. (43-55 Nm).

4. Position the timing belt over the camshaft sprocket, then over the crankshaft sprocket.

5. Tension the timing belt and tighten the tensioner pulley bolt to 32-41 ft. lbs. (43-55 Nm). When properly tensioned, the timing belt should deflect 0.16-0.24 in. (4-6mm) when a force of 5 lbs. (2.2kg) is placed on the longest span of the belt.

6. Turn the crankshaft sprocket one turn clockwise and realign the crankshaft sprocket timing mark.

7. Recheck the belt tension and adjust as necessary.

8. Install or connect the following:

a.Timing belt cover(s)

b.Crankshaft pulley

c.A/C compressor belt

d.Water pump pulley

e.V belt

f.Negative battery cable

g.Engine with coolant

If you need PICS I guess I could upload some, just tell me which one you might need! Just let me know! Hope this helps!

Oh BTW liquid wrench and wd 40 is good, but I found PB Blaster is really great and fast acting!

This post has been edited by Mad_Max_46: Oct 27 2009, 10:16 PM

Bro, I have the manual. Stop copying and pasting stuff out of it. You havent read anything I said. The only issue I had was removing the pulley. I don't need instructions. Stop following me around,Its getting old. Go back to shopping for aftermarket parts for your bad **** gs.

You need to read through this thread. In it they guy explains how he got his pulley to freeup from the sprocket.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t40521-help33.htm

As I already stated, that is for the 2.7 "Gt" model, not the gs 2.0 liter. The gs does not have a guide pin to hammer out.