:blink: Hey all I am trying a new adventure-I am going to change my own oil and air filter. My ex-boyfriend has aways changed my oil but since he is now my ex I am going to do it on my own. I have changed the oil on a car before, but never on my Tibby. I guess what I need to know is exactly where the oil drain bolt is and in what order I need to go in-its been a while. Also I have a new air filter to put in and I am just wondering if it is as easy as popping out the old and putting in the new. Maybe someone can point me in the right direction. Please help me out! Thanks a lot!!!! Megs :unsure:

This post has been edited by swimnby1: Apr 28 2005, 04:46 PM

Hey Megs!.......here`s a `How To` I wrote some time ago. There are a few U.K. store references, so for Halfords, maybe read Wal-Mart!.

Cheers,
Nick. :)

Quote:
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Obviously to be able to get under the front of the car (to reach the sump drain plug located at the lowest part of the oil-pan under the main block of the engine) we need to raise the front wheels.
There are 2 ways ordinary guys can do this, the simplest of which is to buy an inexpensive pair of ramps......the Halfords ones I bought years ago have a positive stop built into them, so there is no fear of driving off the end. I expect they cost around £20 per pair today.

The other way is to use a 2-tonne trolley-jack & a pair of axle stands......last Christmas Halfords did an amazing offer of a jack + 2 stands for £25!...I expect you`ll pay a little more now.

Anyway, run your engine for 5 mins. to warm up the oil (not boil it!) so it is thin enough to drain easily. Have the following items to hand :-

A roll of old carpet or underlay to lie on!.
A ring spanner to fit the sump drain plug......a socket set is MUCH better!.
An oil filter wrench.....a cheap tool like the g/f or wife uses to get jar-lids off!.
A cheap plastic funnel.....to keep your engine clean when pouring oil.
An oil filter .....all Hyundai`s use the same part no. (buy from a Dealership if you prefer to stay OEM).....I (of course) use Halford`s!.
A packet of assorted copper sump washers.....one will fit!.
A large container of your chosen oil (4, 4.5 or 5 litres).......
(5 litres of Halfords Fully Synthetic 5W/40 is £29.95).
Something to catch the old oil in.....slim enough to slide under the sump when the car`s raised & big enough to take around 4 litres & not slop when you move it. Consider oil-disposal.....
DON`T POUR IT DOWN A DRAIN!.

Drive car up ramps, handbrake on full (leave in 1st. gear IF you`re going to remember you`ve done so!!) chock rear wheels with bricks behind them.
This is the way I always do it, but because my car is very low, I have to jack it up a bit to slide the ramps under the front bumper....dodgy!.
OR :-
Chock rear wheels as above, apply h/brake, position the saddle of the trolley-jack centrally between the front wheels & roll it under the car until you find a solid jacking point, such as an engine mount......see Webtech/handbook if in doubt.
Raise the car slowly, ensuring the saddle stays where you intend. When the jack is fully-extended, position the axle stands under suitable strongpoints adjacent to each front wheel. Gently lower car onto stands, remove jack if it`s in your way.

Now for the quick bit!.

Open bonnet, remove oil-filler cap & insert funnel.
Get under car, position your oil-catching vessel & undo the drainplug with the ring spanner or metric socket.....it`ll be stiff so be careful NOT to round off the plug edges.
When the oil starts to flow, get out from under the car, bringing the drainplug with you. Clean it`s thread & replace the copper washer with a fresh one; get back under the car, taking it with you.
Now find the oil filter...(look at your new one to see what it looks like!)...& try to unscrew it (anti-clockwise) use gloves if you like....it`s going to get messy!. You`ll probably need to use your wrench to loosen it, then gently unscrew it & have the oil-catcher underneath as some oil will pour out, keep the filter upright to minimise spillage.
Have a cigarette while you clean yourself up & the last of the old oil drips away.Now smear a little clean oil on the rubber sealing-ring of the new filter & carefully screw it into position, tightening it as much as possible BY HAND ONLY!.
Refit the sump drain plug after cleaning the area around the hole with a rag. Tighten firmly with spanner/socket...dont strip the thread though!.
Pour fresh oil into the engine via the funnel, checking the dipstick regularly.....fill to just over the max. mark on the stick (as the filter will swallow about 1/2 pint).
Refit the filler cap, close bonnet & start engine (you did knock it out of gear didn`t you?)....NOW LOOK UNDERNEATH TO ENSURE NO OIL LEAKING!.
Return car to level ground, switch engine off, wait 5 mins. & check dipstick.....if necessary top-up to max. mark.

JOB DONE!.

BTW.>>>>>>changing the air filter is just as you wrote!.

Nice write up-
just a few things to add- the oil pan dain plug is a 17 mm, and I would strongly recommend getting a filter from the dealer, I work for a Hyundai dealer and I cant tell you how many aftermarket filters leak. If you want an aftermarket one, the valvoline filters seem pretty good as far as not leaking goes, but do not under any circumstances buy a fram filter, they almost always leak, and are constructed very poorly. As for removing the oil filter, I use a pair of channel lock pliers, the kind that are adjustable to several different opening sizes and have the jaw at a right angle to the handles. Oh and make sure when you remove the old oil filter that the old gasket comes off, as the old rubber will sometimes stick to the engine. Good luck!

:clap: Thanks guys! You are awsome. You saved the day. I hate the idea of paying so much money for something I can do myself for $20.00. I have synthetic blend oil to put in and I can't remember what type of filter I got but I'll check and if its a Fram I'll return it ASAP. Thanks again!!!!!

Megs :57: