So hi everyone. My names Ryan and I just bought a new 09 2.4 limited and love it so far! I have about 800 miles on it now and want to know when you guys first changed your oil? I'm thinking about doing it early to get all of the wear metal out. I also wanted to know what brands of oil and wt's you guys reccomend. Do you guys take that big plastic piece off to do oil changes or just reach through the hole to get the filter out? Whats a good jacking point in the front to put it on my jackstands? What OCI's do you guys run on these 7500? or 3000? like the manual says. Do you guys use conventional oil or synthetic? I realize thats a lot of stuff to ask but any info would be helpfull, thanks!

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I do mine every 3000 miles and i use whats on the oil cap i believe for mine (i have a V6) its 5W20 or 5W30 one of those two and i only use Pennzoil.Ahhhh i forget that the 2.4 have oil filters under,well look at it this way if you can get to it dont take off the plastic if you cant then take it off otherwise your just doing more work.Your manual should inform you and jack stand point if not you can find them here http://www.hmaservice.com/ register for free and theirs tons of useful information.
Again Welcome to the Hyundai Family!

This post has been edited by V6 Sonata: Aug 7 2009, 01:03 PM

Welcome! And congrats on your new Sonata!

I have 98,000 miles worth of oil changes on my '07 Sonata 2.4L, all done be me in my garage.

It's not difficult nor expensive but explaining it will take a while. Since I'm at work now, I'll post a write up tonight or tomorrow.

Regards,
GEWB

I have a '09 Sonata GLS 2.4 and did the first oil change at around 3,000 miles. It is easy to change the oil on this car. 5w/20 is the recommended oil. I used Pennzoil Platinum but any high quality oil will do. There is not much price difference between the synthetic and conventional oil. Since I'm doing the labor myself, I don't mind spending a few $ more for higher quality oil and I don't feel uncomfortable going with a longer change interval like 7,000 miles.

The Hyundai filters from the dealer are really good quality and I don't have to worry about voiding my warranty with some defective brand X product. They don't cost much more so I always use them. You shouldn't have to remove the plastic shrouding under the engine.

Good luck with your car.

I have an '07 2.4L which now has 98,000 miles on her (I call her "Nelly"). I have done EVERY oil change on her myself as up until this spring I drove 1,000 miles a week.

I have used Mobil Clean 7500 synthectic blend as my go-to oil and Bosch filters. I have used Penzoil Platinum once or twice and used Chevron dino as an AutoRx rinse once.

Other than the AutoRx rinse, my oil change interval runs 5,500 to 7,000 miles depending on conditions (drive conditions, weather, time available). With the 90% highway driving I did the MC7500 or PP could easily do 7,000 to 7,500 miles (my oil analysis report came back "stellar" a while back).

As to first oil change, it's up to you - just don't exceed the manufacturer's limit. Your filter will catch any metal flakes. As to filter brands, don't use the least expensive but also no real need to use the most expensive.

Now to changing the oil and filter on the 2.4L.

>>> IMPORTANT - if you do not remove the plastic splash guard that covers the bottom of the engine, oil can (will) drip a LOT onto it, run along the width and start draining on the floor a foot or two away! What a mess...don't ask.

> First, drill several holes (around 3/16" diameter) in the splash guard lip right by the drain plug, that way any oil that drips drains out the holes into the catch pan. (I drilled four holes one half to one inches apart.)

> I use a plastic newspaper wrapper around the filter to catch the drainage and rarely have any drips to clean up! <<



Materials:

> 5 qts oil - I use Mobil Clean 7500 (dino / synth blend) which I bought at 95 cents a qt (Checker Auto on-line order only, store pick up), 10W30 for summer, 5W30 for winter (still have about 80 quarts in my personal strategic oil reserve)
> Bosch Premium filter (#3312) - buy one get one free at Checker (when on sale) = $3 ea (I buy the max allowed, typically have four to eight in my stash)
> 80mm 15 flute oil filter "cap" wrench - use with 6" extension and 3/8" ratchet
> 17mm wrench - for drain plug
> Plastic wrapper from newspaper - place up over filter before removing (no drips!)
> Oil waste pan
> Floor jack
> 3 pound hammer
> Cut off neck of 16 oz or 1 liter water bottle (1.5" down from the neck) - use as funnel to fill oil

Procedure
> Run engine a few minutes to warm (not hot)
> Jack up front of car
> Remove oil filler cap on top of engine.
> Place waste catch pan under oil plug
> 17mm wrench and hammer - remove drain plug and drain oil (just needs a light tap)
>> IMPORTANT - grab and hold the metal washer on the drain plug, remove with plug - don't lose it in your waste pan!


> When drained, reinstall plug with washer. Use hammer to tap / modestly tighten. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN (it only need a couple light taps) as it WILL split the washer or strip the pan threads! Yes you can reuse the washer with no leaks - I used the same washer for 30 oil changes before replacing on my Elantra.

> Place plastic newspaper bag over filter (reach up through access hole in splash guard). Use oil cap wrench / extension / ratchet to remove old filter.
>> IMPORTANT: look up to the filter seat to be sure the filter can gasket material didn't strick to the seat or you WILL have a BIG mess to clean up!

> Place a drop of new oil on your figure and coat the gasket of the new filter. Install new filter.

> Place cut off water bottle in oil fill hole (fits perfectly!) and add 4.75 qts of oil.

> Replace oil filler cap.

> Lower car from jack.

> Start car, run for about 30 seconds. Turn off engine.

> Check for oil leaks.

> Check oil level on dip stick.

> Clean up.

Done - about 30 minutes, $8 cost (plus tax).

Regards,
GEWB

This post has been edited by gewb: Aug 7 2009, 03:14 PM

wow thanks for the replys guys! Drilling holes in the plastic dosent seem cool. I'll have to look at it. Is the drain bolt behind the cover or something? Maybe a fumoto drain valve is in order.

Can I put my floor jack right in the middle under the tow hook and use that as a jacking point?

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/00000732.gif) Ryan! Glad to see you made it over to our great Hyundai forum. When I change the oil on our I4 Sonata I always just remove the lower plastic splash shield. I tried once leaving the shield on and it was a mess. I also only use Hyundai filters, I'm only about two blocks from my dealer so it's easy for me to pick them up. I also like the fact that the same guys at the dealer see me in there buying oem parts just in case I ever need to take either one of our Sonatas in for service. I use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 in our I4 & Pennzoil Platinum 5w-20 in the V6. Both motors are so smooth and quiet with these oils that I won't use anything else. I run both change intervals at 5k miles and I did the first change on both motors at 3k miles.

I use the fram sure or Ez drain, whatever it is. No more messing up on the splash guard or drilling holes. Just use the screw in pipe that comes with it to drain oil anytime without using any tools.

I'll have to order one of those on amazon. I have one on my Honda Element and I love it, but I dident want to order one if I dident have to. Is it a PITA to get that splash guard off? is it just some 10mm bolts or is there plastic ones as well (I hate plastic fasteners)

There are two plastic fasteners that came on our 07 I4. I took them off the first time and never put them back.

Are the plastic ones hard to get off? Any problem in leaving them off? I'll probably just have to man up and do it and see for myself. I'm debating useing the PP 5w30 that you use or useing castrol edge 5w30. The castrol edge is a lower viscosity 5w30 so it wont kill my gas milage as much. Also its good for 15k according to castrol so 7500 should be a walk in the park. I also dont know if I should run some conventional through it first but seeing how I'll have to take the stupid plastic cover off I think I'll try the edge and leave it in for 7500 and call it good, but I dont know.

It might be a good thing that its not so simple to change the oil. In my element its easy so I do it every 3k just because I'd rather be on top of it and not worry.

The plastic fasteners have Philips head screws on them so they come right out. My guess is they were put there to make the original assembly go smooth. They can be pushed in by hand when putting them back, which I never did. Use whatever oil your comfortable with. I know you've been on the same oil site I frequent, that's where I learned about the Pennzoil Platinum that I tried and am very satisfied with.

Thanks for the info!! I'll probably do just like you said and take the cover off and never put the plastic fasteners back. Your probably right about the PP I've used the 5w20 and it seems to work very well so its probably a good idea to use the 5w30. What kinds of MPG do you get in your I4?

I don't watch MPG in either car. We only pay for gas for my wife's car, I have a company credit card for my car. My wife is not an easy driver, very hard take offs and stops. Her car is a testament to the durability of the Sonata line of Hyundai cars! I will say the I4 Sonata moves out pretty good, not as fast as my V6 but pretty darn good. I did some basic mods to both cars as you can read in my signature and the I4 really responded well to both mods. I will have to put my G-Meter in the GLS one day and see what it can do from 0-60.

Drain valve is an OK idea but I just never bothered.

The drain plug clears the splash guard but as the oil is almost drained it "snakes" back and falls just onto the lip of the splash guard. From there is travels in that lip / channel to the low point which is around the front/back center line, pools and then drains onto the floor! That's why I drilled the holes...

As to comments in this thread that it is "difficult" to change the oil, I don't find it so. Just use the plastic bag method I mentioned and you won't have a problem.

Regards,
GEWB

This post has been edited by gewb: Aug 7 2009, 09:58 PM

Not difficult to remove - philips head screw driver and 10mm socket on a ratchet...five minutes or less but longer to put it back on. I left the splash guard on as it is designed to help air flow for cooling, keeps road junk from getting into the compartment and discourages critters from trying to keep warm in the winter (just ask people who leave their cars in long term parking at Denver International Airport).

Regards,
GEWB

well I changed the oil today and it was easyer than I thought it would be. I left the plastic spash guard on and used the bag idea to get the filter off. It worked great and I dident spill a drop! I dident have any of the problems with the oil snaking back and dripping on the plastic but I'm betting that most people use ramps. I used a floor jack and jack stands so I bet I got the front end higher than most so it was at a steeper angle and dident allow it to snake back. I decided to use chevron supreme 5w30 and I'll use it for a few oci's and decide at that point if I want to switch to synthetic. Thanks for all the help and advice guys!

I have a 2008 and a 2009 Sonata. Just changed the oil in the 2008. Piece of cake. What I did was to use two inexpensive metal ramps. However, because of the clearance, run the car up on a 2x6 before the ramp contacts the tire to give sufficient clearance. As I have a lip on my garage floor the ramps were held in place so they didn't move. I just eyeballed it carefully and put my parking brake in place as I went up the ramps and finally put in the trough where the wheels sit. Once that is done, the access to the oil filter and oil plug are readily accessible. I used NAPA 5w-20 and oil filter which meets the specifications. The manual says 4.3 quarts but I question that. Personally, I think with a full oil change and filter replacement it is closer to 5 quarts. And I am one to check these things carefully. It now reads exactly at the full mark. I also picked up those nifty windshield stickers and applied one of those for a reminder. My 2009 is not ready for its first change for another 500 miles but I don't anticipate any difficulties. I'd avoid the jack stands and jack if you have the metal ramps. Much easier and safer. If you get the wrong place you could bend something and it's not worth taking the chance. Absent that, I would take it to the dealer if you have one close by and let them take care of everything but since my nearest dealer is about 50 miles away I just did it myself. You could of course take it to any other brand dealer. I would avoid the oil and change shops because they may not stand behind their work if they leave out the oil plug and you are stuck with needing a new engine. It has happened!!

I always fill it with 5w20 mobil 1 syn. First change - 900 miles, then every 5 to 6K. Since I got $10 oil change x 10 times coupon when I bought the car, I just bring the car and my oil to the dealer and let them do the work.

I am definitely going to stash these directions. My local dealer offers free oil changes and I took full advantage of this when I had my 07 Santa Fe. However, they don't do this any more (found out when I took my 09 Limited Sonata in for it's first oil change) so I will probably start changing my own oil again. Haven't change my own oil since I got rid of my 99 Mercury Cougar.