Thanks Scooby. Which link is this, please? Seems strange that they don't all do it, eh? Best Regards........

Below is the copy of the piece on the Honest John site :-

"VBeen working at a Hyundai dealer in Europe for the last year, so I've driven and PDi'd many i10's.

They are generally very well made, with no major problems.

There is a degree of clutch judder in them all, but I dont think its a fault, its more a feature, probably slightly weak engine mounts allowing movement.

The 1.2 engine is a gem, free revving and powerful for its size. Also has a cam chain, so no belt to replace.

A few notes:

The middle rear seat belt buckle is hidden up a pouch in the seat back, lift the squab seat base to find it.

Every i10 I have inspected has a low coolant level from the factory. Maybe its slightly underfilled in production and may also settle in transit, but make sure its topped up when you take delivery and check it monthly as if it gets too low the engine might overheat. The coolant expansion tank is at the back left side of the engine bay, screw cap marked 'Engine coolant'. Ensure it is topped up to the 'F' full mark."

Longshot says:-

I agree, I am generally pleased with the build quality of my i10 BUT I don't agree that a juddering clutch could be described as a feature its a bit like in the old days when they used to say that British motor cycles had character this was generaly known to mean that they leaked oil and bits regularly fell off due to the vibration of a poorly designed and made engine thrashing itself to pieces.
But hey, why not if Hyundai were to bring our attention to this "Feature" before we parted with our hard earned then you would have no complaints BUT THEY DON'T DO THEY.
Its right about the seat belt buckle though.

Well I spent another half a day off work and took my juddering i10 to a second dealer, Tates in Portslade as requested by Hyundai customer services (Andy). Sure enough they confirmed it has a juddering clutch in first and reverse (2 rather important gears). I have now phoned customer services back and am waiting for them to come up with a solution.
Having spent hours travelling 5 times to 2 different dealers trying to get this fixed I expect a full refund for my faulty goods, or a new replacement. If this is not agreed by them I will be taking this to trading standards and making a fuss in the media about it. Has anyone else had to go this far?

More poor service from customer services !! Now that another dealer have agreed there is a fault with my i10 clutch I thought I was getting somewhere....customer services said I could write a letter of rejection to my dealer claiming a refund (though only to market value) or a car swap. Or they would fix it again at the other dealer in Portslade and give me 2 free services...I got that up to 3 free services. They they say I have to take it in yet again (the 6th time, I was only with their chief mechanic yesterday!!) to be diagnosed, then parts ordered, then take it in yet again for repair. I said look, just keep the car for as long as you like as long as I have a vehicle ie courtesy car (they said they would give me a hire car) I dont want to keep driving 60 miles time and again having done so many times already...so I agreed to this. But......
Then I get a call from Lenny at the dealers to book it in...ok I think...I will drive it over on the 19th and they said I can keep their car for a week until it is repaired...BUT....Hyundai have not authorised the work under warranty....even though I have had it seen 4 times and a new clutch fitted by them already!!! I would have to authorise it and pay for the clutch/gearbox examination in the likely event Hyundai would argue again it was not covered under warranty....UNBELIEVABLE....20 PHONE CALLS AND 5 VISITS TO 2 DEALERS TO GET TO THIS!!!!
If you are thinking of buying a Hyundai....DONT...until they sort their customer service out first.

This post has been edited by scoobyjones1: Oct 9 2009, 09:36 AM

I've just found and joined the forum, and yes I to am suffering a juddering clutch, and agree with all that's been said re using high revs, slipping the clutch. the dealer is going to look at it next week together with the squeaky seat belt pivot and other rattles, creaks etc. On the plus side, I like the engine, gearbox, and the lights are great.
Deebee

Sorry to hear of your problems Deebee but welcome to the forum and keep us all posted......

You are not alone! I'm off to the dealers next Wednesday, same problem. I look forward to getting it sorted but I suspect this is just the first step.

BDR

[quote name='Badly Drawn Roy' date='Oct 10 2009, 08:19 AM' post='269753']
You are not alone! I'm off to the dealers next Wednesday, same problem. I look forward to getting it sorted but I suspect this is just the first step.

BDR
[/quote

I'm going to cancel my appointment next week, as the car is just about perfect now. In desperation I tried an old mechanics trick, and I think it's no worse than all the clutch slipping we have to do to pull away smoothly. Find yourself a hill, or hold it on the handbrake, rev to 2000 rpm and hold it on the clutch for 30secs. It's perfect now, never been so smooth, and I can now pull away at 1100 rpm, even on said hill. Does anyone else think the throttle pedal action too heavy? I found I couldn't increase revs gently, it would "give" and rev to 2000 rpm+ which didn't help matters. Lost count of the number of times I've stalled it trying to trickle away in traffic, or getting in or out of a parking space. I should say at this point I'm no novice, been driving nearly 50 years, 40 of those everyday for Royal Mail (now retired) driving all types of vans, stopping and starting 100's of times a day. I've eased the throttle spring and it's a little lighter now, gentle pressure and the revs go to about 1500' just right, or is just about run in? 1400 miles now.

As a matter of interest, I'm on my second i10, had the first one for three weeks when it was changed for the one I have now. The main reason was damage to lower sills, and the underside caked in thick mud. I ran it over my inspection pit took some photos, and straight back to the dealer, and after three weeks a new car. The clutch on the first one juddered as well by the way. Hyundai's PDI is non existent, I think they wait for the customer, us, to find the faults.......

DB

Getting the clutch nice and warm does seem to help; I’ve picked that much up from other posts. I’m not sure it’s a permanent solution though; some have said that once the clutch has cooled off the judder returns. As a matter of interest did the stalling improve along with the clutch?

BDR

Mine judders all the time now, even when warm, still waiting for customer services (Andy) to call me back since Friday to give authorisation for Tates Hyundai to repair it...so far they will only work on it if I agree to pay, even though I am already on my second clutch in only 1000 miles, 200 miles of which have been trips to dealers! Total incompetents.....

My personal feeling Scooby (nothing to do with Moderator, site etc) is that you should now be seeking legal assistance - probably with one of the No Win No Fee solicitors........

Deebee says.

I'm going to cancel my appointment next week, as the car is just about perfect now. In desperation I tried an old mechanics trick, and I think it's no worse than all the clutch slipping we have to do to pull away smoothly. Find yourself a hill, or hold it on the handbrake, rev to 2000 rpm and hold it on the clutch for 30secs. It's perfect now, never been so smooth, and I can now pull away at 1100 rpm, even on said hill. Does anyone else think the throttle pedal action too heavy? I found I couldn't increase revs gently, it would "give" and rev to 2000 rpm+ which didn't help matters. Lost count of the number of times I've stalled it trying to trickle away in traffic, or getting in or out of a parking space. I should say at this point I'm no novice, been driving nearly 50 years, 40 of those everyday for Royal Mail (now retired) driving all types of vans, stopping and starting 100's of times a day. I've eased the throttle spring and it's a little lighter now, gentle pressure and the revs go to about 1500' just right, or is just about run in? 1400 miles now.

As a matter of interest, I'm on my second i10, had the first one for three weeks when it was changed for the one I have now. The main reason was damage to lower sills, and the underside caked in thick mud. I ran it over my inspection pit took some photos, and straight back to the dealer, and after three weeks a new car. The clutch on the first one juddered as well by the way. Hyundai's PDI is non existent, I think they wait for the customer, us, to find the faults.......
[/quote]

Longshot says

If you read the item posted on the Honest John site ( I copied it on my last post ) you will see that the people who do the PDI's think that a juddering clutch is a "feature".
I have found that my clutch will judder at any time hot or cold, I have taken to pulling away in second gear and find that this lessens the Juddering somewhat.
I have still had no reply to my emails to Hyundai UK.
I think that the i10 is a fantastic little car but what is Hyundai's 5 year warranty worth if you cant get a problem put right when the car is brand new and the dealers are very very very reluctant to accept that one even exists.
The trouble will be that when the clutch eventually burns out they will say that it is not covered by the warranty and that you must have been pulling away using far to much revs.
I am 55 years old and passed my test when I was seventeen I have driven many cars over countless miles and the last time I experienced this "feature" was on an old 1966 Austin 1100 with oil on the clutch and a shot engine mounting.
As this old banger had done high mileage I felt I really could have no complaints my i10 however is only 6 weeks old and has been juddering from day one.
I might also point out that my old Vauxhall Cavalier that I scrapped to get the new Hyundai was faultless to drive after 16 years of faithful service.

This post has been edited by Longshot: Oct 12 2009, 12:40 PM

BDR

Not sure if my last post worked so trying again

The clutch is fine today, the best it's been. I've driven 20 miles around town today, and didn't stall it once. I did feel that as well as the judder the clutch snatched causing the engine to stall, and was wondering if it was contaminated with oil. Time will tell.......

DB

When I went in for my judder, the dealer replaced the clutch, clutch assembily and gearbox, and I think the gear linkage if I remember correctly. Ever since then I have had no issues. It seems a lot of excessive things to change but I don't care as I now have a judder free I10. I wonder if in my case, quite possibly yours and others that the juddering damages the gearboxes which means that unless they are replaced as well as the clutch that the juddering continues? Not sure on this one but it did solve the problem with me.

I just bought a brand new car....why should I have to try to fix it myself?...all this will do is shorten the life of the clutch.
My i10 has been booked in again (4th time) after much arguing Hyundai have agreed to authorise another diagnosis by another dealer. I have to wait 10 days for this and they will have my car for up to a week during which time I will have a Getz. They have promised me 3 free services for my troubles but will not put this in writing. I will keep you informed and I wish to thank you for your support and advice so far.

I use more rpms and slip the clutch from cold for the first mile, if you have not used the car for a few days it stops the judder before it starts, if you let it judder it just gets worse and judders more. I always use lots of revs for the first mile just in case now.

This post has been edited by wrighty: Oct 12 2009, 03:55 PM

Mine judders very badly all the time, it even stalls sometimes...very dangerous...yours is probably not too bad Wrighty....still pretty poor though isn't it?

It did get very bad one day, the trick is to use lots of revs (3000)and pull away slowly till you are going 5 mph, then drop the revs to 1000 then let the clutch out quicly. once you have got clutch judder it just get worse, but if stop it before it starts then after 1 mile you can drive it normally.
If you are driving from cold into the rush hour traffic, then you will not be able to drive like above as you need speed to pull out into traffic, I am working around this problem till Hyundai bring out a recall or bring out a new clutch.
Sorry about all your i10

Chris

This is one of the problems about all of this, if your journey doesnt involve stopping and starting then you probably dont notice the judder too much. Unfortunately in traffic there is nothing you can do about it. In any case, since they fitted my second clutch it doessnt make any difference how I slip the clutch or rev the engine, it ALWAYS judders in first and reverse. Parking is very difficult in a tight spot too, you cant use your method for that either. Pulling out from a junction is a gamble as well, running the risk of stalling and being hit. I think the first clutch has probably damaged the gearbox, or the gearbox is out of alignment. I will let you know what they find at Tates Hyundai at the end of the month.

For most people getting to the dealer is a right pain, My bootlight fault has gone by itself as I donot want to go back to the dealer and a month passed, it is a shame that one fault could cause so much hassel, your clutch fault for you, the car is great and good valve but not if you only drive to the dealer and back. I hope they sort you out soon as it is bad for you and it looks bad for Hyundia on this forum, if they have put one clutch in then it is time to give you some extra service or swop the car, it not that old is it.
Chris

This post has been edited by wrighty: Oct 13 2009, 04:19 AM