Hello.

I hava a problem with my Azera. After a small accident (hit from pass side) I have only problems with my car.
First I had to replace one of the CATs and later on all the Oxygen sensors.
Now the diagnostics show the listed below error codes:

P0171
P0174
P2189

The car sometimes has problems with starting and the Check Engine pops up after a while.

I am located in Poland and the local Hyundai dealer gave up - they just do not know how to fix it.

Thak You in advance for any suggestions.

I can't say for sure if these Hyundai codes are for all models of Hyundai, but this may be of help:

Or maybe not. I don't see any of your error codes on the list...

http://jerrystout.us/sonata/Hyundai_OBDII_Codes.pdf

This post has been edited by Gamle-ged: May 7 2009, 04:06 PM

Jarek, 171 and 174 are "exhaust mixture too lean" on bank 1 and bank 2, respectively. It means your entire engine is running lean; the O2 sensors on both banks are picking it up. It is unlikely that you'll have bad O2 sensors on both banks at the same time so it's probably a different problem; to check this the dealer can test the voltage coming from the O2 sensors.

You could be having a fuel delivery issue. This means there may be a crimp or restriction in a feed fuel line, a problem with the fuel pump, or a problem with the fuel pressure regulator. In order to check this you (or your dealership) would check the fuel pressure on the fuel rails. Low fuel pressure will cause 171 and 174. You may need a new fuel line, may need a new fuel pump, may need a fuel filter, may need a new pressure regulator.

P2198 is O2 sensor stuck rich on bank 1 sensor 1 - it means it's indicating a rich mixture outside of spec. You have some very weird things going on with your exhaust. Given that 2198 says "rich mixture" and 171/174 say "lean mixture", you might be looking for a crack in the catalytic converter. An exhaust leak will cause too much oxygen in the exhaust downstream of the catalytic converter, which may be causing 171 and 174. The O2 sensor may be trying to adjust for a richer mixture and overcompensating for the exhaust leak.

If you have proper pressure at the rail and no crack in the exhaust manifold, I'd look at intake-side issues, namely a bad MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor or an intake leak, such as a bad intake manifold gasket or a vacuum leak. I don't know enough about this car to know what kinds of lines can get unplugged that would lead to a vacuum leak, but a visual inspection will be sufficient to locate this kind of thing.

Hopefully your dealer knows how to do all of this; these are basic diagnostics. If you were a little closer to North Carolina than Poland, I'd tell you to bring your car over and we could do it all this weekend!

Good luck - I'll post again if I think of anything else.

Hello.

Thank You very much for Your reply.
The 3rd error code code was P2189 while You were taking P2198 under consideration ;)
I have made my own research in the meantime and I have found thet P2189 is "System too lean at idle (Bank 2)"

Thanx in advance for Your further support.

Indeed I was, Jarek, you're right. All signs point to a lean mixture, so that makes it a little more clear: it's most likely an intake air leak or a fuel pressure problem. An exhaust leak is unlikely to occur on both banks of a V at the same time, but intake air issues and fuel pressure could affect both banks equally.

Hi.

Thanx again for Your fast response ;)
I have checked the air intake system and it seems all is fine.
I think it might be the fuel pump problem. I don't have the special tool but I have checked that the fuel pressure is very low. When I empty the fuel hose and connect it again to the fuel pump it takes a while for the fuel to be pumped again and the engine has trouble with starting.
There is a fuel pressure regulator in the pump which may be broken. I will try to find someone who has a tool to meassure the fuel pressure and see if it is OK or not.
Do You think that if just the fuel pressure regulator is broken I can replace it or I need to get the whole fuel pump?

Thanx again for You're help and I let You know when my problem is solved and what coused it ;)

Best Regards.

Hi Jarek, as a test of the fuel pump pressure, try cycling the key 0-1 0-1 in the ignition several times quickly, about 1 second apart. After you turn the key to position 1, the fuel pump bursts pressure to the rail in excess of normal operating pressure for about 1s in preparation for startup. If you cycle the key 0-1-0-1-0-1, then crank it, and it starts normally, it's almost certainly a pressure regulator or failed pump.

I'm not sure how this could be related to your accident but at least you'd have an explanation.

Unfortunately I do not know whether or not the pump & pressure regulator come as a single unit in these cars, but I suspect that they do. Your dealership's parts department should be able to tell you. Or, you could just look on hmaservice.com - this is a free service of Hyundai that includes technical diagrams, procedures, part numbers, technical service bulletins, etc. Spending a few minutes there would probably answer your question.

Based on what you have told me, you are very close to a solution - it is a pump or pressure regulator problem, or else it is a line obstruction. A feed line obstruction could conceivably resulted from an accident. If a steel feed line were "pinched" in any way, the pump may not be able to supply correct pressure to the rail even if it is working properly.

Good luck, and do let us know what you discover!

This post has been edited by andyman32: May 9 2009, 06:56 AM

Hi.
I have taken the fuel pump out of the fuel tank. I have cleaned it and made sure that all the plugs are well connected.
Guess what, it helped ;)))) The car starts in a normally, "check engine" is gone.

It seems that the fuel pump must have been well shaken during the crash.

Once again, thanx a lot for Your support and professional advice.

Good for you! I'm glad that helped. Without a replacement part you might beware of it - also, it's ALWAYS a good idea to replace the fuel filter, particularly after you've had the tank out or the fuel lines exposed. You don't want to deal with the results of a fouled line - you end up replacing the fuel line, filter, rail, and injectors. The filter is a cheap and simple part that's sure to keep your motor clean for hundreds of thousands of miles.

Cheers! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

I was involved in an accident about 5 weeks ago in my azzy. Someone rear ended me. After I got it out of the shop the check engine light came on. Took it back to the shop. They didn't look up the code and assumed it was because they had the car started while part of the exhaust pipe was off. They reset it but a few days later it was back on. A guy at work has a scan tool and we looked up the code. The code was for a leak in the fuel evaporation emissions system. This is the system that circulates fuel vapors to the engine to be burned up. Took it back to the shop, told them the code it was throwing and they found a crack in the charcoal canister and replaced it. The moral of the story is accidents can cause problems that will cause the check engine light to come on.

Richard, I think Jarek already decided that the accident caused the trouble codes.

However, the charcoal canister is an emissions control element in the evaporative loss system, not part of the exhaust. The tank has a check valve in the top. When the gasoline gets hot, it begins to evaporate and creates positive pressure in the tank. The fuel vapors are allowed to escape via the evaporative loss system. Rather than simply venting to atmosphere, the vapors first pass through the charcoal canisters. In some cars there is a line that runs from the charcoal canister to the intake manifold. Some of the gasoline vapours are pulled from the canister through a check valve into the intake manifold and burned, before they are able to escape to the environment. I do not know if this is present in the Azera. Without crawling under the car, I give it a 98% chance of being "yes". If vapor pressure in the tank exceeds the level of the main check valve, the fuel cap should have a secondary check valve that allows higher pressure to escape in case there is any obstruction in the evap loss system.

Cheers...

This post has been edited by andyman32: May 11 2009, 08:26 PM