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Update: I was able to get to the tensioner with just the upper timing cover removed so I decided to slacken off the tension to see if this fixed the whining. The whining did indeed go away and it sounded much better; thanks for your input 'Montego'.
One problem I had was that the tensioner kept slipping when I went to finally torque the bolt up to 35 ft-lb; and it made the tension far too loose. So having adjusted the tension for as tight as possible with no whine; it all slipped when trying to tighten down the tensioner bolt AARRRRGGH ! In the end I just had to do a trial and error type of thing; do the tensioner tight, and try and hold it with the allen key in the tensioner while torquing down the bolt and then checking play and whining. I have it set now so the belt will move about 10mm when pushed from the side. This is double what Haynes suggest but I need it that slack to get rid of the whine.
Measuring the tension is a bit hit and miss anyway and depends how the crank and cam settle relative to each other. e.g. the belt could be taught between the cam and crank but slack round the tensioner side so that you think its on nice and tight when it isn't. One other method I use for belt tension is to start the engine and watch the belt flutter as you rev up and then drop revs; if it just flutters a little (about 4mm max total movement from side to side), then tension is about right in my opinion. If you see no movement, it may be too tight; if its vibrating/fluttering wildly, then its too loose. But as I said the Lantra was hard to set with everything put back together as tightening the tensioner bolt made the tensioner move altering the tension. Overall its the most difficult belt change I've had to do so far; the water pump pulleys were especially awkward to reassemble as there is no room between the water pump and the inner wing (some suggest jacking the engine up to help) ! Total job time around 6 hours. Hope this experience is of help to others.
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