Ok, I have had the car for about 14 months and has 14,300 miles. I use Castrol Syntec 5W-20 , I know this oil is recommended per the manual. It is also like water. The leak happens about 1000 miles before I have to change it . This happens every time at 2000 miles. Looks to be comming from the oil filter canister and forms a little pool on the transmission . Here is my question , where does the oil filter O-ring go, could i be putting it in the wrong slot? Would it be worth it to change to a 10W-30? What kind of oil do you people use? TIA

Bryan

There should be two O rings, are you changing the big one and the little one ?

http://jerrystout.us/sonata/tsb/diy_oil_change.pdf

Scroll down to page eight.

Ye, I change the O-rings with every oil change.

Are you lubricating the seals with oil prior to installation? Is filter loose or tight when the oil is dripping?

Yup, Lubricating them and i hand tighten the filter till it stops and give it a quick jerk to tighten it more. . I am going to change the oil this comming weekend. Would it be benificial if I change to a 10W-30 or stick with 5W-20, as 5W-20 is like water.

exact same thing happened to me and i thought the tranny was leaking i used mobil one synthetic 5w-30 the dealer towed the car and told me it was a bad filter!! I thought that cant be i payed 11 bucks for a new filter got home and opened up the oil filter and that sucker was on their tight, the dealer lied and said they put a new one on it was the same Fram filter i put on. The only problem was that the filter cap was not on tight enough!!!!!!!!

That is what I have been thinking, but it is on fairly tight. What kind of oil do you use? I been with 5w-20... thinkin bout goin to 10w-30..not sure yet.

honestly the oil is not your problem i always use synthetic it dosent get cold in TN so the 10 is good and i vary between 30 and 40 when it gets really hot just double check the o-rings make sure the filter is on that plastic rod correctly and tighten that oil filter cap then see what happens if that dosent fix your problem check with the dealer

Well, I brought it to the little hyundai shop here in Korea and they looked at it. They asked my wife being she is Korean if I change the O-rings when I change the oil. I said every time... they asked cuz it is flat where it meets the inside of the oil filter canister. So they cleaned it up and replace the O-rings and tightened it down with an oil filter wrench. Told my wife to tell me to keep checking on it everytime you are done driving and look where it is comming from. They drove it for bout 10 min and no leak..so who knows... I asked if the water like 5W-20 would be the problem and they said no..so it is good that my 10 yr warranty carry over here. I'll keep up with the progression.

My mechanic has been with Hyundai for many years and happens to be a good friend, told me that my 3.3 v6 doesn't like anything other than 5W-20 and if i switch I may be asking for trouble. I don't believe it matters what brand as long as its 5W-20.
I am not sure if the I4s are the same. :thumbsup:

Frank

True, the 5W-20 is like water, but you will still have your leak with the other oils.

I had a problem with the so-called "crush" washers - either they were scratched or dirty - causing a nuisance type slow leak. I also thought it might be the 5W-20 since it was the first time I used it.

But the leak was mechanical in nature as yours surely is. Maybe, the top (larger) O-Ring is defective or cross fitted or whatever, But I guarantee you a change of oil won't fix a mechanical problem.

I have been changing the oil/filters on two LX's for three years now and the whole "cartridge filter" thing is getting a little tiresome - at least they are on top.

I just leased a 2008 Ford Taurus which uses a "spin - on" filter so easy to access, a chimpanzee could change it.

You know, worst case, if you just want to rid yourself of the leak, there are some pretty darn good additives that stop oil leaks. My Cherokee was leaking so much around the main seal once that it caused noticeable smoke (dripping on the manifold). After adding this stuff, I still get drops under it, but hardly ever enough to affect levels on the dipstick or cause smoke.

Well, I took it to the Hyundai shop again today after them replacing the O-rings a few days ago and it has stopped leaking. I brought to them my Fram oil filter and O-rings. They compaired the fram to the genuine Hyundai ones and the hyundai are slightly bigger and look to be made with better quality rubber. Ill get some pix up in a few....Might I add these guys have been more than generous(sp) and patient with me, I am used to the american smart **** "i dont know" attitude.

(IMG:http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h181/ImpSS/Sonata/Aug08092.jpg)
(IMG:http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h181/ImpSS/Sonata/Aug08091.jpg)
(IMG:http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h181/ImpSS/Sonata/Aug08090.jpg)
(IMG:http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h181/ImpSS/Sonata/Aug08089.jpg)

This post has been edited by kyhwa777: Aug 30 2008, 05:55 AM

Both I and a riend had the same issue and it was that we were not tightening the oil filter cannister cap tight enough, I enfed up using a strap wrench on mine and after I hand tighten it as far as possible, i use the wrench, she will turn with the strap wrench until she bottoms out and then will turn no more.

This is an all too common occurrence with second source (sometimes any source) parts. Watch out for stuff from the third world. I noticed that the Purolator oil filters for the Sonata are made in India.

Buy at your own risk. Right now, some Chinese plumbing parts are giving me fits. Also, Fram oil filters, in general, have a lousy reputation.

On the plus side - oil/air filters at my dealer have dropped quite a bit.

Yup, I agree... why buy aftermarket, when you can get a Hyundai filter for like $7 or $8, and not have problems like this... in my mind it's too big of a hassle and risk just to save a couple bucks.

This post has been edited by LilBean: Aug 30 2008, 03:37 PM

Say what you will about third wold filters, but both the MAHLE and MANN oil filters for my BMW 750il are made in India and recommended by BMW

I would assume BMW monitors the quality.

But, I can assure you, based on many decades of experience, that nothing is more frustrating than to finish some complicated, filthy repair job and then find out that the job is botched because of defective parts, and has to be done over again.

This post has been edited by kn5owa: Aug 30 2008, 09:34 PM