^Hey.. you can't compare an Everlasting Ford to a hyundai :P

But YESTERDAY that car DID sound and run like it was blown, but magically this morning it's back to the lifter tap.. wtf happened to it yesterday that hasn't today?

I'm gonna run some cleaner thru it.. maybe BG MOA, then get the oil changed tomorrow. I hope it will make it to the oil change place. Whats funny is the car has ALWAYS had this lifter tap when it's time for an oil change. I dont know how the car knows, but sure as **** when the car is due that tapping comes. And after the oil change it goes away. Weird.

Alright as an update, I bought some K&W Fast Motor Flush.. I'm gonna use that in the crankcase and let the car idle for about 5mins.. then I'm gonna have the oil changed w/ regular oil. Then after about 1500 miles I'm gonna seafoam the crankcase, and have the oil rechanged to synthetic. Lets just hope the car makes it to the oil change place :eek:

You're not supposed to run the car for more than 5 minutes with engine flush in the crankcase, the chemical is too harsh. Do it in a place where you can change the oil yourself. You should not drive it to the oil change place with the engine flush in the crankcase.

Good point, i would put that stuff in right in the parking lot of the oil changes place, let it run for a few mins, then take it in to have a "oil change" dont i dont think oil will be coming out.. :beer:

Ya thats what i mean.. right outside the garage that it's being changed at.

But you think a lot of sludge will come out? Hopefully nothing METAL will be coming out with that oil. haha.

I can almost guarantee that metal will come out with the oil (if the oil can even drain out - the sludge has most likely solidified and clogged up the drain hole). And I'm certain that any flush that you can pour in and drain out yourself is not going to clean the amount of sludge that your motor has. Those pour-in flushes are good for cleaning a little bit of sludge, but remember that yours has enough sludge that it's blocking oil passages.

I still say from my experience that you may be able to get away with a rebuild, but probably are even past that point. If you hear metal on metal sounds (clanking or grinding, etc) then you definately have engine damage. We had one that came into the shop that had thrown a rod through the side of the block... you could stab a screwdriver into the sludge that was in the bottom of the oil pan and it was so thick that the screwdriver would stand up straight. I'd be willing to say that your is almost, if not IS, this bad, from the way you describe it.

:wacko: :wacko: thats crazy man.

It was only that one day though it made that weird noise.. now it runs fine and seems to have most of its power (though it's a LITTLE luggy.. but normal for this car at times) back, and it only has the lifter tick now.. nothing crazy.
But I'm gonna do a few engine flushes I think. Gonna see how will the K&W works. Then maybe try some seafoam or auto-rx or bg moa or something..
Man i'm just HOPING that everything is ok with this car. This is my cruiser car that I take on trips to NY :(

Just in case you don't know... BG MOA is NOT an engine flush. And AutoRX is a slow-working cleaner, it takes at least 3k miles to work.

I've been told BG MOA does a great job with sludge. Just going by what I've heard from many people :shrug: Autorx takes a while but is supposed to be hardcore.

Wish me (and the car!) luck.. I'm leaving in 15minutes to perform the operation.

Yeah, BG MOA does do a great job with sludge, but at PREVENTING it, not at cleaning it. We use it here at the shop, I just re-read the can label to make sure I wasn't missing something...

AutoRX IS hardcore, it does a great job, but may take several treatments.

go get you some of that rebuild in a can the you can drive for another five months with the CEL on hoping the motor gods will smile on you.

Apparently the motor gods are mad today. Instead of smiling, I see those **** grinning. ***** assholes.

It's a rod knock.
Anybody got a used or CHEAP 3.0l 24v dohc for sale?

What do you call cheap?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2001-Hyunda...sspagenameZWD1V

Would the 3.5L bolt up? I dont know. but here they are.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hyundai-Sed...6.c0.m245.l1318

The 3.5 WOULD bolt up to the transmission, but it would require a different ECU and the matching engine harness... a HUGE pain in the arse, not to mention more expense.

The one for the 3.0 is taken down :(

But would it be worth it to upgrade my engine to the 3.5?

Man I really need to do SOMETHING about this thing :|