Hello, I'm hoping that someone here can help me out...

I have a 2000 Hyundai Elantra with about 152,000 miles on it. A few weeks ago, my check engine light came on, but nothing happened and it ended up going away itself. About a week after that, it stalled at a stop, but turned back on. For awhile I have felt like the car was acting a little sluggish.

Last week the car died on me while slowing down to make a turn so that I could cross two lanes of oncoming traffic. When I began to slow down, it cut out. I waited for awhile, turned it back on, and it seemed safe to drive the short distance home. It cut out after about one mile going around 40mph. I pressed the gas pedal to the floor and nothing happened at all...then the engine died. It ended up restarting later, but kept stalling every so often so I had it towed to my boyfriend's house.

At his house he checked codes and it came up with random cylinder misfire and then a bad crankshaft position sensor. He tested the resistance on these parts and they were indeed bad. So, we replace these parts, but we still have a cylinder misfire code being pulled. We replaced the spark plugs and wires, but it still pulls a code-- now for an ignition coil. So, we replace that...still, the check engine light comes on every time we clear it when we hit about 55mph, but you cannot feel it misfire at all. The stalling, however, has stopped.


We eventually gave up and decided to take it to the dealer to run a diagnostic, who is keeping it overnight to run more tests. The mechanic says he believes that we just need to replace our aftermarket sparkplug wires from Autozone with Hyundai parts (says the check engine light didn't come on running with Hyundai parts), but I'm afraid it may be the computer or something more serious.

Has anyone had a similar problem? I am at my wit's end here. I've been using Durlast wires for years and never had a problem.

Hi,

You should use parts recommended by Hyundai - it's the best way i think. What does the dealer say about your car?


cheers,
mark

ps: I had similar problems but it was faulty/worn fuel pump and spark plugs.

This post has been edited by marek46: Aug 5 2008, 03:57 AM

I just joined the forum, so it's been awhile since your post. Your problem sounds very similar to the one I just resolved with my 96 Elantra station wagon. The engine codes were reporting only a non-specific multiple cylinder misfire. Based on the recommendation of the dealer, my mechanic replaces the fuel pump and associated filters, etc. The problem returned after a few days of driving. The dealer could not provide any further information or recommendations (after $160 of diagnosis only). My mechanic then proceeded to replace one part at a time until the problem was resolved. It turned out that the problem was the fuel pressure regulator. There were no obvious problems with the part, and it passed all the tests, but when it was replaced the problem went away.

Well Elanor96, if you still happen to be looking at this thread, your post regarding the fuel injection pressure regulator helped me solve the hesitation and stumbling problem with my 2000 Elantra. Kudos to you! (and thanks of course!)

Where exactly is the 'fuel injection pressure regulator' ? I assume its after the fuel filter. How much is a new one?

A fuel pressure regulator is usually located at the end of the fuel injector rail on the engine intake manifold. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumbsup.gif)

This post has been edited by accent sport: Sep 16 2009, 10:07 AM

Hey EdGasket - the regulator was around 50 dollars at Autozone. You can order for around 40 shipped from rockauto.com.

By the way, the stumble is back, but just not as consistent as before, so I'm still looking into why the engine has a misfire or stumble from takeoff at low speeds. Not consistent - sometimes not there. Never seems to be there at high speed. I have a fuel system pressure check tool on loan and am going to check pump pressure, return pressure, etc.

My 98 Elantra is also stumbling as you describe. I tried cleaning my idle air control valve and my throttle body. Seems to have helped. The problem was worse with the AC on.

Were the codes cleared after changing the spark plugs? If not then the code will keep showing up. Of course the dealer is going to recomend Hyundai parts, they are trying to get you to spend all your money there. I bought plugs and wires off ebay and I'm running fine.

Sorry ElantraBoy, haven't checked here in a while. I had the idle control valve out and gave it a cleaning with some carb cleaner. Didn't do anything to change the stumble on takeoff situation. Interesting on the throttle body, but it looked rather good when it was inspected. Now that cold weather has set in here in New England, the problem is very subdued - it is barely noticable, but every so often, there is a trace of the stumble.

If you suspect your IDAC, just take it off - uninstall it completely - and run the engine without it. If you can drive around ok without stalling at idle with the IDAC out, but you stall with the IDAC in, this means something wrong with the IDAC or its wiring. Test it with your multimeter, the center lead to each of the side leads should give you a closed circuit. Also test its wiring circuit, you should get a voltage from the center lead to both leads, one nine volts, the other about four or five - can't remember precisely.

Also, for the misfire code, make sure that your spark plug wires are fastened securely, on both ends.

Your problem - basically stalling when trying to accelerate - did sound to me like a bad coil. I've encountered it before, so I know what you mean by it driving you to wit's end. Typically in this scenario some mechanics will unnecessarily replace all kinds of (expensive) fuel supply equipment before getting to the cause. My own simple rule of thumb - not foolproof - is that a fuel supply problem will manifest at all speeds, while an ignition problem will show at specific speed or acceleration conditions.

Frank
Frank's Friendly Cars
Maui Car Rental
www.MauiCarRental.biz