I was looking at possibly putting a 10" sub into the panel on the hatch door. There seems to be a lot of empty room behind the panel.

Any suggestions or concerns? I assume I would need a "Free Air" sub since it isn't all air tight.

I was just wanting to conserve cargo space.

I hadn't even thought of doing that... I was looking at the little "cubby" spaces to the left and right of the cargo area in my hatch for some custom enclosures and small subs.

I was also thinking of using some really thin subs and building a false floor that would be level with the back seats when they're folded flat...

The hatch is an intriguing idea though...

Bump for some more input.

3 things you can do. One make a fiberglass enclosure on the rear hatch.

Two: Spair tire well mount it Stealth also might be FG

3 Normal box

It doesn't need to be an infinite baffle sub. But a VERY awesome sub to get would be a ID MAX 10 by image dynamics which is a "free air sub" but you can run it in a box and it'll pound with the CORRECT airspace (important). You cant just stick a sub in any box and have it do what it should lol..




Your other problem is power for the system....


go read the red sticker on your alternator and tell me what it is. I can tell you if you need a new alternator. Ie a lot of accents have 90 amp alternators and you need about 160 amps plus to run a car audio system. Rec 200 amp really.. Then you need to do the Big 3 wire job by adding bigger main power wires.

Caps for car audio don't work. there's a BIG write up on caraudio.com 's forums about why caps suckand why you shouldn't use them. feel free to ask me questions i've been messing with car audio since 1997

This post has been edited by Glock23: Jul 29 2008, 04:26 PM

i call shenanigans on needing bigger than a 90A alt.

my '85 vw golf CL came stock with a 60A alt & i upgraded it to a 90A when it burnt out. it ran my 10" sub & amp and other speakers and head unit perfectly fine.
granted, i did have a larger battery as well.

i think a 90A alt and a battery upgrade would suffice.

getting power inside the hatch is a relative piece of cake. i did it for my scrolling led licence plate frame (which has died, haven't trouble shooted it yet.) with a sub wiring kit.

i would think the problems would be:

rattling the ever living crap out of your hatch interior panel as well as licence plate. you'll have to add a bunch of foam inside the rest of the panel as well as tape some to the back of your licence plate or you're going to drive yourself nucking futs.

weight. will the hatch shocks lift and hold the hatch up with the weight of a sub and possibly amp?

i don't know a ton about sound design, but, aren't you supposed to aim your sub sort of up towards the hatch glass to have sound bounce off of it? maybe i'm totally out to lunch with that thought.

^ +1

you dont need a bigger amp. im running 1800 watts peak and my lights dim a little bit. but nothing that would make me want to upgrade my alt yet.

and you would have to make an entire mold of the hatch because you need it to be structural enough so you can bolt it to the hatch, if not you plastic clips that hold it on would break

and you would need stiffer struts on the hatch to account for the extra weight of the sub plus counter balance so maybe 1.5 times the weight of the sub maybe a bit more.

counter balance is the weight of the sub in relation to the degree that it is at when the hatch is all the way up, from how much the sub extends past the swing arms you need to account for gravity pulling downand making the hatch want to close on its own weight.

but once you address those the rest is simple. how ever you may only reduce volume consumption by about half or so. there might be 2 inches between the pannleing and metal so you would have to build it out if you were to fiberglasss it. and you would have to watch what is in the pathe of the sub when closeing the hatch cuse i can just see something goinging through the sub cone

This post has been edited by nobodieshero07: Jul 29 2008, 08:10 PM

i have no idea what nobodieshero07 ewing sorry i am not in to electrical stuff all the 70s 80s 90s A watts but installing one on your hatch may cause you to have to lift the gate up cause of the weight and you may have to reinforce the gate two pipe thingys that hold it up cause i feel that it may fall under so much weight

Great Idea, but not practical. Mainly because of the plastic. I guess you could make a whole new back hatch interior piece out of fiberglass, but I'd say just give up a little bit of your trunk and call it a day.

I really like the false floor idea. I did that in my previous car. It looks good, and it helps maintain hatch space, so the hatch is still useful. This is important when I have to carry my daughters stroller and diaper bag around, and pick up groceries, etc...

I like the idea of the spare tire mount also.
As far as the alternator,I am running a 150rms/300 max amp and you would never even know it was there except for the sound.No lighs dimming even with the stereo blasting and ac on max.
:D

i'm talking about 2000 watt plus installs..

That's kinda what I'm looking for. 300w max and 150rms with a 10" sub just to add to the factory sound. That's plenty for me. I don't need the whole neighborhood to hear it, just a little extra to let me "feel" it.

I'm gonna looks some more and take some measurements to see what I might be able to come up with. Only the future will tell.

I have the clarion sound system from Hyundai and when I'm parked with the lights on you can see the lights dim on big bass. Imagine with AC on!

If you are looking for subs and enclosures I have a website that you might want to take a look at. I have ordered from them before with no problems.Click Here!

I'm looking to get a 1200 Watt Max: Kicker L5 Solo-Baric 12" Sub from them...price is good considering how much retail is. They have enclosures, head units, screens, etc.

If i was doing the above i'd get one of these with a 600w amp (kicker amps rock but i dont like there subs.)


Mmats :amen:


(IMG:http://www.woofersetc.com/images/products/2154.jpg)
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=2154




Or

Re audio

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=4909

(IMG:http://www.woofersetc.com/images/products/4909.jpg)



Push it with an Alpine amp :)

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...pdate+Selection

This post has been edited by Glock23: Aug 1 2008, 04:24 AM

Well, my brother in law gave me a JL Audio W08 8" sub and I bought an Alpine V12 amp for $17.50 on Ebay (I'm praying that it works)

I'm currently working on an installation idea that I got the other night. It involves the sub going in with the spare tire. The spare tire will stay. I'll keep you posted when more evolves.

I'll start another thread then.

I'm still considering mounting the 8" on the back hatch.......somehow......don't think 10" would fit now that I have really looked at it.

After some further investigation, I have found that a typical 8" sub won't fit in the rear hatch without cutting some metal. You might be able to get some 6" subs or possibly some shallow mount 8" subs. Without a custom fiberglass back panel, I don't see anything fitting well in there.



Attached thumbnail(s)

did you check the spare tire well space? I've got enough in my MC for a 15 :)


also the 2nd pic looks like you could put a FG kick pannels in for some 10's

plenty of room

This post has been edited by Glock23: Aug 9 2008, 04:15 PM

:bwekk:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t29388-just-...pics-coming.htm

wow i never thought of that good idea but will it have enough air space?