I have the Accent hatch SLX manual 2007 1.6Ltr. I'm in Australia so i dunno the american equivilant to this. its the one with the leather gearstick and ABS if that helps.

Lately ive notcied on cold starts i need to hold the key a second or two after it kicks over so that the revs coe up. before that it started fine when it kicked over the revs came up to 100 or higher then settled but lately now its winter here if i take the key off just after it kicks over it feel like it will neally stall just before the revs come up.

i hope i have made sense in what i am saying. it may well be nothing and due to cold weather but i don;t like having to hold the key on a little longer than normal in case it damages the starter motor

might suggest some amsoil signature series oil....helps out with cold starts, gas mileage and helps the car run cleaner, better , longer.....

www.lubedealer.com/dkinney

it really does help out with cold starts! check your plugs too!would also suggest swappin to the synthetic tranny fluid works great in the winter and helps with mpg, and smooth shiftin.... :thumbsup:

feel free to pm me with any questions....!

Hey Mate! Welcome to The Forums :00000732:

My car has been experiencing the same issue over the last few weeks. My car is due for a service very soon, so i thought i could be something to do with that.

I agree with Tooslo that you probably need your oil and plugs changed.

Also keep in mind that the Canadian variants come with the engine block warmers, our Aussie versions definately dont. Correct me if wrong guys.

How many k's has your car done? Any Mods done?

BTW I live in Adelaide, it has been absolutely freezing the last few weeks.

Don't worry about it, usually in the summer i just hit the ignition for a split second it starts but in the winter ill have to hold it, should be fine as long as you dont hold the starter after the car is started

still got this cold start problem. i do hold the key a little longer but i think that isnt a good thing as starter is staying on after the car has started.

i've tried leaving the key in the "on" position till the fuel gauge registers before starting the car incase the fuel pump might need to kick in, as well as just turning the key straight to on.

i went to the dealer they did a scan tool test and said nothing was wrong with the car.

maybe i need an oil change i dunno if that will help. its six months since ive change the oil and do lots of short trips ( 3 miles to work) in cold weather

No no oill change required. Try a injector cleaner. sounds like your injectors are not firing at 100% effiancy. Put in a fuel additive injector cleaner, that should clean it up. YOu should be using an injector cleaner about ever 10,000km or 7,500 miles. THe fuel out there today is crappy and dirty. unless you are using high octane fuel which already has a bit of the additive. than you can double the 10k 7.5K times.

Komptek, please dont tell people this, this is highly misleading!
How can you isolate his problem with one post on the internet to his injectors, and then recommend injector cleaner, which could very well make his problem worse?
Hard starts can be caused by any number of symptoms!
bad grounds,
weak battery,
clogged fuel filter,
dirty or fouled spark plugs,
failing starter,
failing fuel pump,
clogged catalytic converter.
Dont even get me started on the emissions system.

short answer, if you still have your warranty, take it to the dealer. I wouldnt begin troubleshooting an issue like this without at least a manual of some kind. If you have a DVM, and simple test is to check your battery's voltage across the leads while cranking. You can also do a voltage drop test across engine and chassis grounds, and the ground for the starter. Both are very non-intrusive tests.

Its best to break this kind of issue down into 3 parts. You need fuel, spark, and air to start an engine. One of the 3 will cause the issue.

air - make sure you have no leak, intake portion,
spark - have to go through the charging system following the factory service manual. This will include from the battery to sparkplugs, and from the battery to the starter. Voltage test will usually be the first test, and voltage drop will usually be second which is why i suggested it.
fuel - I always trouble shoot fuel last because its the most intrusive. This would be the best place to follow the factory service manual.But it will essentially consist of following the flow of fuel from the tank to the engine. starting with the fuel pump, and ENDING with the injectors.
And if all of the above checks out fine, then its really time to get dirty with the DVM because emissions, and engine management sensors will be next.

This is very general, but the FSM will break this down and give you a concrete process to follow. Once I have my hard copy FSM, I am going to starting writing how-tos.

It was only somethign to try. your post give him a lot to look at. too much for someoen not very mechanicly inclined. mine is routine maintaince that everyone should be doing. Usually the easies fix is the right one.

If he is not mechnically inclined, thats all the more reason to take the car to the dealership, until its fixed.
running injector cleaner through the engine is not recommended maintenance. It not listed in the factory manual that came with the car.
And I will bet that its not listed as in the fatory service manual either.

the car has only done 5,000 kms. i took it to the dealer today when i did my service and they did a scan tool text and said there wasn;t any problem. thing is it does not do this all the time unfortunately. perhaps just holding the key a bit longer is enough its just it is annoying that there is a adelay in the revs comng up.

i put in 10w 30 castrol magnatec. is this a reasonable oil for weather conditions in Australia or is 30 a little low?

10w30 and 5w30 should not cause an issue in 30 degree weather.

At below freezing temperatures, a 0w-20 oil or a 0w-30 oil will circulate the oil faster than a typical 5w-30 oil. It can take 30 seconds or so to get significant oil circulation during below freezing temperatures, and five or ten minutes of driving for the oil to reach full operating temperature and for you to have full, normal oil circulation.

For those reasons, it is a good idea to try to keep your speeds under 40 mph or so for the first five minutes of driving in ultra-cold weather. And EASE your way from zero to 40 mph, don't stomp on the gas pedal.

The MAJORITY of wear on a engine occur during cold starts. One cold start puts more wear on an engine than 200 miles of cruising down the highway. So, try to avoid starting the car more than necessary. On a cold Saturday, if you have six errands to run, don't make six trips. Get the car warmed up, and run all your errands on one trip with a warm engine.

You do not need to do this, the only cold start is the first one. It takes time for the oil/engine to cool back down.

And you do not need to wait 10 minutes for oil to warm up. As long as the coolant temp is within operating range, the car is good to go. On every car I have driven it has never taken longer than 5 min, and that is at idle. My last car in 20 degree weather would be warmed up within 2.5 min of idle. If you cruise at load speeds it will take less time.