Hi!

I recently installed a rear O2 sensor as it was turning the check engine light on. Pulled a code on it and replaced it.

The light went out for about a week, then the light came back on. I pulled the code and now I am getting a "P0455 EVAP Emission Control System Leak (Large).

What do i look for at this point? Someone told me to make sure the gas cap was on tight. i did that and the light still didn't go out.

Help!

:liebe011:
Bob

There is a possibility it could be something with your PCV valve or like a kinked hose but more than likely you just need to have the code reset..

Well, this is what I have done so far:

Replaced gas cap,
replaced vacuum lines from air intake hose to idle sensor and idle sensor to intake, bought a new gas cap. Still no go.

Right now I have the purge control valve out. How do I test to see if it's working?

Bob

To test it you just shake it and if you hear it rattle its usually fine, you can also blow and if there is resistance its good too. these are really cheap at parts stores and it couldn't hurt to replace it. Some codes have to be turned off and won't go away when the problem is fixed so you should have it shut off and if it comes back on you still have a problem..

HOLY CRAP!

I found the problem!

My neighbor came over, he works in a garage, and he said "hey, check your gas filler pipe to see if there's any holes". I thought he was kidding. Well, he stuck his hand up into the left rear fenderwell and felt around and said "come here". So I went over and low and behold, my vent pipe was rusted in half and the filler tube had a HUGE hole in it up near the top.

I NEVER KNEW IT! I filled up with gas a LOT in the last two weeks and never even got a leak or fumes! I guess when I put gas in the nozzle was long enough to pass by that spot and get gas in the tank without a spill. FREAKY!

So, the P0455 error was due to there being NO VACUUM at all since there was no way to build a vacuum in the "rusted" open system!

Well, you all know what I'll be doing next week! Fixing the filler tube! :thumbsup:

Thanks for all your help! :beer:

Bob

The repair went fine!

I had it done in 4 hours give-or-take.

Here's some advice if you install a filler pipe:
MOST IMPORTANT: DO NOT MAKE ANY SPARKS, OR SCRAPE METAL WHILE WORKING ON THE FILLER PIPE OR WHERE IT HOOKS INTO THE GAS TANK!!!!!!!!! YOU'VE BEEN WARNED!

There are 3 tubes, Small, medium and large ones, that form the filler pipe. They all have to be unhooked down by the gas tank. They hook into rubber hoses with hose clamps. The hose clamps will be very rusted, spray them with WD40 or put a little engine oil on them to facilitate getting a flat screwdriver between them and the hoses and prying/bending them so you can get them to slide off the hoses. Use new hose clamps where the new filler tubes hook into the gas tank hoses.

The four bolts up by the gas cap will be VERY rusted and will require you to use a sharp drill bit and to drill through the heads of the screws to remove them. DO THIS AFTER YOU UNHOOK THE FILLER PIPE FROM THE GAS TANK OR YOUR COULD HAVE A FIRE! You will have to buy four stainless steel bolts down at the hardware store to bolt the new filler tube up by the gas cap.

After removing the filler pipe, use a VERY small amount of either oil or Vaseline and rub a little inside the rubber hoses that go to the gas tank. This will help the new filler pipe tubes to slide in better. I'm not sure if I hooked up the gas tank's rubber hoses to the filler tube first or if I bolted the filler tube up by the gas cap first. Do whatever facilitates you getting the filler tube into the gas tank's rubber hoses easily!

There's also another sensor up by the gas cap that you will have to unhook and reinstall while replacing the filler tube.

Have fun! In 4-5 hours you'll be done, but... BE CAREFUL! GAS FUMES IGNITE EASILY!!

DS

You speak as if you had a small fire... lol

Well...I just wanted to make it VERY clear that it can be dangerous if not done right.

It went great for me and I had no problems.

DS