I'm rapidly approaching my 60K service, and I treat my cars like I did planes in the USAF. At 60K, I'm going to do just about everything, inspect everything, clean everything, etc. My question is, how hard is it to change the timing belt on the thing? I don't have the money to take it to a shop (which is why I'm doing my own plugs, which I can figure out pretty easily). So any input on this? Also, has anyone changed the fuel filter for it? I hear its in the tank, and you have to pull it out of the tank...Not so sure about that project either.

One other thing, I backed into a barrier at Dover AFB that was moved on me overnight to get something through the parkinglot. I cracked the bumper, and I really need to replace it to get it to sit right again. Hyundai wanted 2200 bucks to replace and paint it. I tried to get the thing off, but there seems to be a tab that is welded on (on) each side down from where the tail light assembly hole is. The right side one is broken from my mistake, but the left one is intact fine, and won't budge, so I couldn't get the bumper off without breaking it (which I didn't want to do!). So I just put it back on, and did a home made repair job on it to make it look decent. I still want to get it replaced eventually, but I would see if anyone else had this problem in removing it.

Sign up at this site for free access to Hyundai Shop Manuals. There is a good description of the Timing belt repacement:

http://www.hmaservice.com/

Yes the fuel filter is in the tank. There is no description of the replacement in the shop manuals though. In fact, Hyundai states that there is an inline filter on your car, which is NOT the case. The only good description for the fuel filter replacement on these cars is on the Kia website.

http://www.kiatechinfo.com/default.asp

You have to register here too, then go to the "Tech times" link, and the procedure is about half way down the first page. This is for the in-tank filters that Hyundai/Kia uses. The fuel pump and filter can be accesses via the small panel on the floor of your trunk near the rear seats. I've never done either of these jobs myself, but I've read that you need to be really careful to not damage the pump upon reassembly when replacing the filter.

Dear Galaxy,

Not hard to do and not hard to get right. The biggest pain of the job is removing the crankshaft pulley bolt....it is torqued to 136 lbs feet. Most people try to remove this with the wrong tool ( a little Sears 3/8 drive ratchet wrench and a 4 foot pipe) and spend hours of frustration and skinned knuckles.

I love Harbor Freight for automotive power tools, only 'cause they are so dirt cheap there is no reason not to use the right tool. The right tool is a 1/2 or 3/4 drive electric impact wrench...you will wonder how you ever did struts, shocks and transmissions without it. You will need a 12 inch black anodized (impact rated) extension, and a 22mm black anodized socket. Turns 3 hours of misery into 20 minutes for two people. That *%#@ bolt is off in 20 seconds or less.

Good directions on the hmaservice.com website for timing belt replacement, and good diagrams too.

Byron

Hello,
I have the same type of Engine on my EF 2004. I saw that in Korea they sell the replacement kit that includes:

Timing Belt
Auto Tensioner
Idle Pulley
Tension Bearing
Tension Assembly
Water Pump Assembly
Water Pump Gasket
Pulley Drive Belt
Water Pump Belt

My question is: Is it needed to replace all those other parts at the 60K service? or just the belts?

what does the dealer replace when they do this service? just the belts or do they also replace all those other parts above mentioned? Local Dealer charges $500 for the 60K belt service.

How do you get the crankshaft pulley off? Is there a way to hold the pulley while you are trying to loosen the bolt holding it on? I can't figure it out, and I don't want to move the pulley too much out of time.

This will work for torquing it back on....or taking it off.

If you are doing the timing belt, you will probably replace the accessory belt too. Take the old accessory belt off all pulleys except the crankshaft. Wrap it around the crank pulley and pinch it tight with vise-grips. Tight as your can get it to grip.

Then take the slack and wrap it around something sturdy...I threaded mine thru the a-arm and tied it off. Use your impact or breaker bar (135 ft lbs is how tight it is on) and back it off. I had to use my breaker with a cheater bar to get the right leverage. I'm 6'4" and stout, leverage is your friend.

Then a month later I ran across a post that would have saved me an hour....

take your breaker bar and socket, lean it on the floor in the direction the engine rotates and bump the starter...supposed to break it loose and impact it off the rest of the way from there.

If you prefer the long way...try my route.

Chris