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| LukeSki |
Jun 10 2008, 08:43 AM
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So is it true that the automatic 2008 accents get higher mpg on the highway then manuals? not sure about city driving
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| LukeSki |
Jun 10 2008, 01:08 PM
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ahh that makes it clear, thankyou
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| TroyHansen |
Jun 15 2008, 02:47 AM
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QUOTE(DAIadvisor @ Jun 14 2008, 08:41 AM) Alot depends on your driving too. I hit 38.7 MPGs last fuel up with manual on my base 08. Here's what helps: 1. Don't idle - for me warm up is exactly long enough to put the seat belt on and engage the gear shift. 2. Use neutral as much as possible when applicable - down hill for example. I found certain areas around my house where I can coast in neatral for about a mile. It really helps. 3. Use 4 PSI more in your tires that standard 30. Especially if you drive alot of highway. 4. Don't shift higher than 2.5-3k unless you need to. 5. Don't use your headlights or fan unless you need them. (Yeah, that's pushing it but it really helps. Load on your alternator will impact your fuel consumption. Basically, don't run your lights during the day, or fan / heater unless necessary). 6. Speed between 55-65 will yield the best fuel / RPM combination. 7. Don't engine brake - if your engine revs up, fuel consumption increases. :) a couple of corrections, one never take your car out of gear and roll it is very dangerous as stated int he manual and also kills economy, better off putting it in a high gear and letting the wheels turn the engine, also engine breaking is key to good economy the wheels also turn the engine no gasoline is wasted here until you idle that is why the manual transmissions get so much better mpg in the city.
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| DAIadvisor |
Jun 15 2008, 08:20 AM
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Troy, I respectfully disagree.
I still maintain full control over my vehicle even when coasting in neutral. Trick is to match the RPM when engaging gears. Obviously if you're in the highway, you have to rev the engine up before engaging drive train again. If in the city, it's a bit less crucial, but still important. When you're coasting at 600-700 RPM, I give you 150% certainty guarantee, that you use 1/4 of the fuel than you would use if driving the same speed with 2000-2400 RPM in gear. Basic mechanics, comrade.
Also, any increase in RPM will increase your fuel consumption - engine has to use gas to work, so if you engine brake - your RPM goes up and so does your fuel usage.
Again, I am not suggesting everyone drive like me, but this is what gives me the mileage that I get.
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| litesong |
Jun 16 2008, 09:21 PM
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QUOTE(DAIadvisor @ Jun 14 2008, 05:41 AM) Alot depends on your driving too. I hit 38.7 MPGs last fuel up with manual on my base 08. Were you mostly on the highway? My wife drives her Accent mostly to work which is a mix of stop & go, highway, country, & city getting 32+MPG(& rising after a cold long winter). When I get to drive it(usually to her mom's place on the highway), the tank has her work driving mostly on it. But it starts hitting 34 to 35MPG. I might think a full highway tank might get 37 to 38MPG.
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| Kuripot |
Jun 18 2008, 10:45 AM
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QUOTE(DAIadvisor @ Jun 15 2008, 08:20 AM) Troy, I respectfully disagree. I still maintain full control over my vehicle even when coasting in neutral. Trick is to match the RPM when engaging gears. Obviously if you're in the highway, you have to rev the engine up before engaging drive train again. If in the city, it's a bit less crucial, but still important. When you're coasting at 600-700 RPM, I give you 150% certainty guarantee, that you use 1/4 of the fuel than you would use if driving the same speed with 2000-2400 RPM in gear. Basic mechanics, comrade. Also, any increase in RPM will increase your fuel consumption - engine has to use gas to work, so if you engine brake - your RPM goes up and so does your fuel usage. Again, I am not suggesting everyone drive like me, but this is what gives me the mileage that I get. I'm not sure if that's true. I believe these fuel systems cut the fuel off to the engine during engine braking. I haven't read up on it too much, that's just what I've read on various threads. Can anyone else comment on that? Here is a q/a from another site that I posted: How should I be driving my manual accent for the best FE when slowing down? Should I be shifting to neutral or letting it slow down in gear? I don't know how the DFCO works on my car and I can't really find any info on it. I'd like to get a scangauge but I don't want to spend the money right now. Kuripot kuripot; Take a long phillips head screwdriver, place the handle on your ear and the point on the fuel injector body (any injector, doesnt matter). You should be able to hear the injector ticking as it works (engine running of course). Rev the engine up and release all throttle, you should hear the speed of the ticking go up, and if you let off the throttle completely the injector ticking should stop completely and start again when the engine is at idle RPM. Staying in gear with no pressure on the accelerator pedal does the same thing. Instead of using fuel idling, you are eliminating all fuel delivery to the engine. It can save you a lot of fuel in stop and go driving. I like to stay in top gear until my revs get down to about 1000 RPM, then downshift to keep the revs above 1000. If you do it right you will be in the right gear when it becomes necessary to reaccelerate. regards gary This post has been edited by Kuripot: Jun 18 2008, 10:54 AM
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| onetwenty |
Jun 18 2008, 10:53 AM
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QUOTE(Kuripot @ Jun 18 2008, 10:45 AM) I'm not sure if that's true. I believe these fuel systems cut the fuel off to the engine during engine braking. I haven't read up on it too much, that's just what I've read on various threads. Can anyone else comment on that? that's what I've been reading too.. engine overrun or something like that. im a recovering N user and have just been engine breaking usually.. if anyone can confirm or deny that there IS a fuel cut off while coasting in gear that'd prob. help a bit here. This post has been edited by onetwenty: Jun 18 2008, 10:53 AM
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| TroyHansen |
Jun 18 2008, 12:31 PM
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QUOTE(onetwenty @ Jun 18 2008, 10:53 AM) that's what I've been reading too.. engine overrun or something like that. im a recovering N user and have just been engine breaking usually.. if anyone can confirm or deny that there IS a fuel cut off while coasting in gear that'd prob. help a bit here. there is lol and thats what im trying to say as long as the car is in gear and you are not touching the gas pedal then there is no gas wasted as if you were in neutral and roll to a stop
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| TroyHansen |
Jun 18 2008, 12:38 PM
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QUOTE(DAIadvisor @ Jun 15 2008, 08:20 AM) Troy, I respectfully disagree. I still maintain full control over my vehicle even when coasting in neutral. Trick is to match the RPM when engaging gears. Obviously if you're in the highway, you have to rev the engine up before engaging drive train again. If in the city, it's a bit less crucial, but still important. When you're coasting at 600-700 RPM, I give you 150% certainty guarantee, that you use 1/4 of the fuel than you would use if driving the same speed with 2000-2400 RPM in gear. Basic mechanics, comrade. Also, any increase in RPM will increase your fuel consumption - engine has to use gas to work, so if you engine brake - your RPM goes up and so does your fuel usage. Again, I am not suggesting everyone drive like me, but this is what gives me the mileage that I get. But im just saying its not recommended to take your car out of gear when your driving at higher speeds, just isnt safe but you can drive how you'd like.... And you have the whole engine breaking thing backwards, it doesnt take fuel to run the engine at high rpm none the less more fuel, wheels turn the engine... during engine breaking the injectors are cut off. The only type of cars that use gas while coasting in gear or engine breaking are carbureted cars. This post has been edited by TroyHansen: Jun 18 2008, 12:42 PM
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| Tango2Go |
Jun 18 2008, 02:03 PM
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Older cars (especially carburated ) used vacuum to draw in fuel.If the engine turned Fuel was "used". Our car's ecu reads rpm's, throttle position, manifold absolute pressure ,air/fuel ratio(oxygen sensor),as well as others to adjust fuel. When the tps shows a closed throttle and the rpms are above preset idle the fuel flow is shut off to avoid a rich mixture at the o2 sensors,until the rpms reach the preset idle constant.Regardless of map(vacuum). When the tps shows movement the fuel idle circuit is then engaged . Fuel flow is then adjusted by the ecu to maintain proper air/fuel ratio to avoid problems. This prevents excess fuel build up which can cause sparkplug fouling due to core saturation,catylitic converter degradation due to fuel contamination,and excessively thin oil or bearing wash caused by unused fuel leaking down into the pan.All this ,prolonged engine life and maintainance requirements,and improved fuel economy. If you don't believe it cut the ignition off (stick) coast a few seconds and turn ignition back on. If there was fuel being fed during the coast you would experience a sudden explosion of unburned fuel in th exhaust system.(Though not recommended). :whistling: :57:
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