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> 3.3l - Replace Oil Filter Holder Thingy
sopclod
post May 28 2008, 09:26 AM
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This has been driving me nuts since we got this car, but every time I change the oil I damage the thing that holds the oil filter just a little bit more (that little o ring is so hard to remove).

Where can I get a replacement?
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babstude
post May 28 2008, 09:47 AM
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not sure if NAPA or any of the big guys would have this - you may have to get it from the stealership - check NAPA or Pep Boys though ..
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timk22
post May 28 2008, 11:34 AM
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Here you go:

cap, stem and valve - items 46, 47 & 64 in the pic:

#46: Cap - 263513C100 $4.44

#47: Valve Assy - 263603C100 $3.70

#64: Core - 263523C100 $3.36

Wouldn't hurt to have a spare valve assy and core just in case.........prices from Delray Hyundai.


QUOTE(sopclod @ May 28 2008, 09:26 AM)
This has been driving me nuts since we got this car, but every time I change the oil I damage the thing that holds the oil filter just a little bit more (that little o ring is so hard to remove).

Where can I get a replacement?
[right][snapback]164661[/snapback][/right]


This post has been edited by timk22: May 28 2008, 08:00 PM
Attached File(s)
Attached File  Oi__Filter_Parts.JPG ( 21.12K ) Number of downloads: 126
 
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kn5owa
post May 28 2008, 12:45 PM
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I bought the whole stem assembly as a spare when I bought my LX's.

Anything made of plastic and subject to heat and oil deposits is destined to break.

So far, nothing has broken but you're right - the little o-ring is a bear to get off. And I bet it could probably be reused many times (without removing it).

This post has been edited by kn5owa: May 28 2008, 12:47 PM
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sopclod
post May 28 2008, 02:19 PM
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Perfect, that's what I've been looking for! Thanks!
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dogstar
post May 28 2008, 02:21 PM
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QUOTE(kn5owa @ May 28 2008, 10:45 AM)
I bought the whole stem assembly as a spare when I bought my LX's.

Anything made of plastic and subject to heat and oil deposits is destined to break.

So far, nothing has broken but you're right - the little o-ring is a bear to get off.  And I bet it could probably be reused many times (without removing it).
[right][snapback]164698[/snapback][/right]



Why risk your engine for the sake of an o-ring?

Just cut the o-ring off, reasonably careful use of a razor or wire cutter should be able to cut it easily.
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kn5owa
post May 28 2008, 11:56 PM
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QUOTE(dogstar @ May 28 2008, 02:21 PM)
Why risk your engine for the sake of an o-ring?

Just cut the o-ring off, reasonably careful use of a razor or wire cutter should be able to cut it easily.
[right][snapback]164718[/snapback][/right]

I just leased a new Ford Taurus to add to my collection of two Sonata LX's (the Taurus is much better for long trips).

Although, the Sonata's are not the worst cars to service by any means, the Taurus is a piece of cake. The air filter is right up front on top and the oil filter is a "spin-on" type filter which is also right up front - but on the bottom of the engine.

The filters are in plain view - easy to access - and no O-rings etc to mess with.
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SonataRobbie
post May 29 2008, 01:14 AM
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QUOTE(kn5owa @ May 28 2008, 10:56 PM)
a new Ford Taurus...is much better...
[right][snapback]164901[/snapback][/right]

That's ludicrous! Ye shall henceforth be banished from the planet for such a preposterous statement!

LMAO!
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ddix1026
post May 29 2008, 07:02 AM
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you mean the re-labeled Ford Five-Hundred? its a much bigger car, so it should be better on "long trips"...

not sure in what other way a Ford would be better...

Ford.. ick... never again.. bad things
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V6Limited
post May 29 2008, 11:43 AM
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Makes me nervous about my first oil change, now. That filter looks nothing like what I'm used to. :o
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Tommer
post May 29 2008, 12:29 PM
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I kind of like the new filter. It can be messy, if you're not careful when you pull it out of the holder, and drip oil onto your mill. The o-rings aren't a problem at all. I use a dull awl, and it pulls them out easily. When you reassemble it, make darn sure you oil up both o-rings. It makes reinstallation WAY easier. Don't over-tighten!

It is easier than trying to take off an old style filter, when it's way underneath your engine, and you're using ramps, and the filter gets STUCK on. I've seen that a few times, and that blows.

This post has been edited by Tommer: May 29 2008, 12:29 PM
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kn5owa
post May 29 2008, 06:13 PM
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QUOTE(V6Limited @ May 29 2008, 11:43 AM)
Makes me nervous about my first oil change, now. That filter looks nothing like what I'm used to.  :o
[right][snapback]165020[/snapback][/right]

There are plenty of "how-to" posts on the forum about oil/filter changes.

On the V-6, it is not physically demanding - but a little like changing a watch battery. There are bunch of little details to watch out for.

As the main said - change the O-rings and oil them. Also, use a new "crush" water and make sure the area on the pan where it goes is clean when putting things back together. That 5W-20 W oil is like water and it is easy to wind up with a very slow leak if not careful.

At the beginning, the first thing to do after removing the engine cover is to completely loosen the filter cap, then lift it straight up an inch or so to drain any residual oil. Otherwise, you will slop oil on the engine when lifting the whole assembly out. - see the previous post on the subject.

When re-torquing the filter cap, simply tighten it until it stops rotating - it will come to a very abrupt halt.

There have been many many posts on the forum about dealers and shops who did not change the filters, put in only a couple of quarts of oil, and otherwise screwed things up - so do it yourself if you can.
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scotty7
post May 30 2008, 06:41 PM
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I've use a small set of needle nose pliers to pull off the bottom o-ring. Just make sure you have a hold of the assembly tight while pulling off the o-ring or you'll detach it from the filter cap. The pliers seem to work well for me, I haven't damaged the center filter assemble yet.
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