My 07 Azera (Bought in July 07, manufactured April 07), A/C sucks! We have it on full blast, at only 85 degrees outside, and it takes forever to cool down, and even then, it never gets cold. My 04 sonata will chase you out of the car. I figured it wasn't charged properly with refrigerant. I want to recharge it myself with one of the kits you can buy, but I don't know what type they use in the car. Does anyone know what type of refrigerant that is used in the Azera A/C system?

No warranty help from your dealer?

According to my dealer, they won't do anything for it since I'm over 12K miles (I got nearly 20K on her already).

Thats hogwash, the basic bumper to bumper warranty is 5 years.

Should use R-134A
I have used interdynamics Artic Freeze with geat results,special connector will only connect to low side connector so no problems.If you do not have a gauge add small amouts of freon at a time checking air temp out of vents,a/c on high.
http://www.id-usa.com/catalog.asp?CID=7

Available at wally world & most autoparts

Note,If your low side line is getting cold then you do not need any freon,could be your digital control module.
If your not sure,best to get the dealer to take care of it,speak with the service manager with your concerns.

This post has been edited by TheGetter: May 11 2008, 09:29 AM

If you need refrigerant your system has a pretty good size leak.
R-134a is what you need. Refrigerant never, ever goes bad. In a million years your refrigerant will still be good.
A properly charge system will have about 25-35 lbs ref on the low side.
DO NOT add refrigerant to a properly charged system; you will damage it.
Check to see if your compressor is running when you are getting warm air.
Obviously if it's not running your problem is elsewhere. You should be able to hear it engage/disengage at least once per minute. If your thermostat/climate control is calling for cold the compressor will stay running.
This should definitely be under your warrantee.
Good luck.

This post has been edited by rodneya332: May 11 2008, 12:09 PM

Galaxy5007,

Let me put an exclamation on two points already recommended by other members.

1. Take it back to the dealer! Insist he fixes it... or you call Hyundai.
If you putts with this without the expertise and knowledge you can ph**k it up so bad you WILL void the warranty. An 07 should be bumper to bumper till 2012.

2. DO NOT put freon in the system until you or somebody puts a gauge on the system and check the freon level in the system. Because you can ph**k it up so bad you WILL void the warranty.

3. When your think your ready to do step 2... see step 1.

There are MANY things other than low freon can cause low cooling. Even if it is low in freon THERE HAS TO BE A LEAK in the system which adding freon won't fix.

This post has been edited by raw6464: May 11 2008, 06:51 PM

I'm going to swing it down to a different dealer sometime this week. It blows cool air, but not cold air. I have a gauge and all the equipment, I just haven't had the time to look into it myself. After the fiasco at the dealer in durham (just wanted money from me, jackhead!) So I'll take it down to Fayettenam sometime during the week and get it checked. It is possible its the control module, cause when its in auto, it never gets to the desired temp, or takes forever- especially when we want heat, it blows cold air at 74 degrees, so you have to jack it up to 82 or something just to get the heat to warm you up. The A/C problem, occurs either manual or auto, doesn't matter. The heat only has the issue in auto.

When I did the Sonata, I had the same problem, it just wouldn't get cold enough. The stupid dealer said it was blowing at 52 degrees, and was fine, but when I have it on full blast, recirculate mode, and its 98 outside with a heat index of 110, that 52 degrees doesn't tell me jack! So I drained it, and put Artic Freeze in it, and it works like a champ now. Like I said, it'll freeze you out of the car!

This post has been edited by Galaxy5007: May 12 2008, 03:40 AM

Galaxy, if you can hit Durham and Fayettenam, why not try Southern States?

In November 2007 I traded my 06 Sonata for an 07 Azera.
I had the same problem with the Sonata; at times it did not cool.
The main reason I unloaded the Sonata was the climate control problem, which they NEVER fixed after four attempts. I was contemplating exercising the Lemon Law when they had the 0% finance promotion.
Sure hope the guy who purchased it can get it straightened out.
MY Azera has dual climate control thermostats but so far I've had no problems.
I am certainly keeping my fingers crossed!
Good luck at the dealer.

I don't know where southern states is. Never been there. Pinehurst is open now as well, but I rather go to Fayetteville, since I gotta go down there anyways. Its a 30 minute drive from here to there, where its an hour and 20 minutes to Durham. I think there is a dealer in Cary, but again, I'm not familiar with that area so much (even though I worked construction up there for 6 months, lol).

Today, the check engine light came on for no reason. I reset it by pulling the ECU fuse, and its out, and it hasn't come back on after driving it around like a mad man. So I don't know if the fuel cap was loose, or what. Either way, I gotta take it down and get the A/C looked at and the wheels rotated and balanced (my steering wheel shakes pretty bad at 70. I'm just about at 20K miles now. Other than that issue, nothing else really to note on the car. The back window shade tends to vibrate alot with the radio on, but whatever.

Galaxy, southern states is up here in Raleigh. It's a huge and reputable dealership group. I bought a new '02 Regal from them in '02:



And they did good deals for me on both Azeras.

The body shop, not so hot, but the sales and garages are really pretty good.

Bring up your car for maintenance and we can go out for lunch and a pint, on me! :beer:

BTW, Thor vibrates out on the highway around 65-70, with 1600 miles. Haven't really checked Soo-Dae yet. I hope this isn't one of those suspension "bugs" that plague a car, like the BMW E34 (5-series '89-'95). Great, great cars (aside from the Nikasil-lined V8) that had an incurable 55mph balance problem from day 1.

Have you checked your cabin air filter?

I was running into the same problem with A/C feeling like the vent setting on cold, but once I replaced the cabin filter, I can freeze myself in minutes.

Well, I took it down to Lee Hyundai in Fayettnam, and they looked at the A/C and couldn't find nothing wrong with it, as I figured. It is working okay now...It just seems to take forever to get comfortable on a hot day like today was.
The idiot told me that the engine light came on cause the fuel cap wasn;t tightened at one time. I ALWAYS make that thing click like 10 times...so I don't know what the heck. Then the guy charged me 42 bucks to reset the light. On my Sonata, if it comes on for that stupid reason, take it off, and put it back on, and a few miles later the light goes out. But on this thing, they have to clear the code every time. I even reset it myself by pulling the ECU fuse, but it came back on. If it comes on again, I'm going to take it back there and have them keep reseting it for free until they find out whats REALLY causing it.

The wheel vibe is a combo of two things, first the wheels were out of balance (front 2). The second cause is that the brake rotors are warped. They wanted to charge me 140 bucks to get them turned, but I held off and pulled them myself so I can see if I can get them turned at a machine shop or car quest. Alot cheaper that way.

You could REPLACE the rotors for half that much.

And it's a shame you're letting them reset the DTCs for $42 a pop; 1.3 reset procedures and you could buy yourself an OBD-II code reader at Sears and reset them yourself! (As well as read your DTCs...)

The number 1 reason for warped rotors is uneven lug nut torque.

that or overtorquing the crap out of them, which I have had done before. I need to buy a torque wrench for sure, so it gets done right. Whats the torque on the lug nuts in inch lbs?

As far as an OBD-II scanner, what kind should I get, and where does it plug in here (I can probably find it, but I'm being lazy atm).

Do you have over 60,000 miles on your Azera and your warranty is no longer valid?

David <><

Well the lug nut torque spec is in ft-lbs. You can pick up a ft-lb wrench anywhere, the car parts store, Sears, etc. The cheapest will be Harbor Freight or Northern Tools. There's a Harbor Freight in Raleigh and Northern Tool in Cary - may be one closer to you. In ft-lbs, the spec is roughly 60-80 ft-lbs, but if you have a wrench, I'd just set it to 80 ft-lbs (960 in-lbs).

Unless you're getting a scanner with live data feed diagnostics (like fuel trim, engine speed, etc.) I don't really know that there is any big difference between them. They are pretty basic tools, you plug it in, read the codes, then you can delete them. Those more advanced handheld scanners are cool, and you need to compare features - but they're also very expensive, $300-$400 range. I would rather buy software for my laptop; better display, more information, more functionality, easier updates, etc.

I haven't plugged a scan tool in to the Azera yet but I think every OBD-II vehicle has the port somewhere in the driver's foot well, under the dash.

Good luck!

:beer: