Hello!

It's all about mileage when gas prices go up...

My Lantra 1.8 96' has fuel consumption from 6.7 L/100km (around 35 mpg US gal) to 7.3 L/100km (around 32 mpg US gal) - local roads (avg. 80km/h) and highway (avg. 110 km/h).

Here's the stuff I've done till now:
-NGK BKR5ES-11 (set to 1.05 mm gap by the book) checked every 25.000 km
-stock air filter (replaced every 20.000km)
-stock spark cables
-use only RON 95 fuel (with 98 I got around 7.7 L/100km easy on the throttle!)
-Michelin Energy 175/65-R14 (front 2.2 bar, rear 2.1 bar)
-eng oil Agip SINT2000 10W40 (change every 15.000 km)
-transmission oil ELF 75W80
-brakes once per year checked (and cleaned pads)
-A/C only when really needed
-no extra luggage
-changing gears between 1800 rpm and 2700 rpm
-all in all...easy on the engine and brakes.

Is there anything to check of fix?? I really this car, but with no better results I'll have to change to diesel...

BTW:
I have around 200k km. Piston ring were changed on 110k km. I don't have to add up oil for whole 15k km...nice

Does anyone remember or have the official-factory mileage info of Lantra? I don't seem to find these numbers.

Thanks in advance for replying.

If you're getting 32-35 MPG then there's no problem. I can't recall ever getting higher than that.

So if this is THE max mileage out of this 1.8 L engine, I guess I shouldn't be worried too much. I hope that the stuff I did will help some of you guys lower you'r car's consumption. I must say that I really love this car although she gave me some trouble in the past, and I learned a lot about car's while owning this one.

But I'll definitely get another Elantra and it will be diesel. Definitely.




cheers

I just saw some interesting artiles on this forum about resetting car's ECU. Just want to make smth clear: if I drive for (around) 2 years with causion, is it still necessary to reset car's comp? Does the ECU overwrite older settings with more recent ones?

Thx in advance.


Mark

Well, I've done some 'homework' about ECU/PCM resetting, and I've decided not to reset mine. First of all the car is doing a great mileage in comparison to some other cars I've seen - good reason not to mess with ECU/PCM. Second of all I've seen to come to conclusion that the comp is constantly working/calculating with real-time info gathered from sensors. So if you drive slowly the comp will respond with different valve timing,air-fuel mixture etc.etc. in comparison to extreme situations - in case when flooring it. Everything has already been set in factory, so ECU constantly gathers info and compares these data (variables) with it's own (already set at factory) and responds accordingly.

Yes, ECU has some memory of it's own to store data recently gathered, so there would be no need to adopt to driving style or weather(winter,summer) all over again every time when starting the engine. But I'm sure this memory is constantly overwritten with new data coming from sensors.

And yes, there is some delay - overwriting isn't complete in a snap, it takes some time for ecu to overwrite(adopt to new driving style). This could explain sluggishness, poor acceleration, fuel usage after lots of miles of slow driving. There are also some issues about carbon deposits gathering on valves (when fuel isn't burned completely) - driving in very low rpm's. But IMO this was more problematic on older (carburettor) cars. When in gear I personally avoid going below 1700 rpm. I also avoid long idling.

This is it, I'm not gonna reset her :grin:

cheers!

Your consumption is definitely fine. The best I've had from my 2.0 Elantra is about 32 miles per US gallon, so that would fit in with your figures from your 1.8. Mine is standard though.

Well to be honest with u guys those mpgs aren't there just like that. I'm experimenting with those little magnets. Everything is still in experimental stage. I saw some stuff that they sell over the net, and I decided to make some of these things on my own. This year (with one pair of magnets) I've achieved lower emissions than last year (without magnets), and when I saw those numbers I started to believe that there is smth about this. Till now I had only one pair, and I couldn't get over 35 mpg, but after I've added another pair three weeks ago I've easily gone over 35 twice: first time I got 35.9 and second time 35.5 - both under 30-40% a/c and lots of overtaking and speeding. So this stuff really works. I'll send some pics when I'll have some time.


Cheers!

As I have promised, I'm sending some pics of the magnets. U have to create homogeneous magnetic field. Compass can be very helpful with orientation of magnet packs. I've labeled each side of magnet packs: if compass showed N i labeled that side of pack N (regardless of true N or S - doesn't matter) and the other one S. All magnet packs on the fuel line have to be turned in the same way, or it's all work for nothing! I've scrapped magnets from old computer hard drives (very strong neod magnets). Each magnet has to be broken in half because it has N and S on the same side - see link . The material also looses some of it's magnetic characteristics in high temps, so there must ba at least two to four pairs to compensate for loss. But with only one pair installed the engine seems to jump less than before. Fuel economy is not much greater because it can't get any better - maybe around 3 mpgs, but that's a lot considering all those tune-ups and regular changes and so on and this upgrade done in a snap... And no more nail-biting when testing exhaust fumes and much less engine jumping. Almost forgot: I was doing 31-34 mpg without magnets, around 34 with one pair and now I'm doing low 36's with two pairs. I'm considering to add another 2 pairs - I'm hoping to make it to 37's which wouldn't be so bad for this (rather) old model.

Cheers!

This post has been edited by marek46: Jun 3 2008, 02:18 PM

Nth else to do, so I'm writing down some of my experiences.

Wheels: Check pressure once a week or two weeks when the car wasn't driven for around 5 hrs and it wasn't in the direct sunlight which could cause additional tire heating. Keep in mind that tires heat up while driving, so don't pump too much while they are cold because they will heat up anyway and the ride will be even more stiffer and suspension will suffer a lot. Wheel aligment should be checked every two years or so to prevent excessive tire wear. This also depends on the style of driving careless-cautious on rough roads, bumps. For reducing bump effects tires with bigger 'ring' should be used. I have much softer ride with 175/65 R14 than previous 195/65 R14. For better economy I prefer tires with harder compound. I am more than satisfied with my Michelins.

Aerodynamics: Faster we go, more power is required to push forward. Imo the best way to drive is around 70km/h in 5th gear. Additional spoilers are not really needed (they do look good) but they increase drag. With removing roof carrier we can also reduce drag.

Overall weight: With removing un-necessary stuff is good, but don't remove spare wheel and necessary tools like some ppl do. Extra screwdrivers, hammer, small electric tire pump, nippers/pincers are quite helpful imo.

Suspension: Lowering the car isn't really good in the long run (but fun to drive in the beginning) because the ride is stiffer and you can feel every bump or hole. Stabilizer links should be replaced after 100 kkm for improved cornering. Stiffer suspension usually means lower speed on bumpy sections though :(.

Electrics: For improving mpgs leave a/c off while going up the hill or while accelerating. Too old and used battery requires more charging current. Never leave stuff plugged-in or any lights on over the night because old batt will be dead by morning and new one will load the alternator while charging.

Brakes: Hit the brakes too hard too many times and u'll be replacing the pads soon due to wear or 'fried' material and will be visiting petrol station more often too. Usig lower gears and brakes together helps a lot.

Mods: Magnets do help if they are correctly positioned. I've managed to achieve this and now I'm getting higher and steadier mpgs. Without magnets mpgs were differing a lot (from 31 to 34). Now they are steady between 35 and 36.

Refuel: Don't add fuel after the pump had stopped, otherwise u'll create overflow and that extra fuel will go to nothing(evaporate). Be advised that if u add up 52 litres of fuel and u'r car has only 45 litres tank, there is smth wrong with flow meter.

Engine: Standard air intake removes dust and water. Imagine driving behind a truck on a wet highway and u'r engine swallowing all those clouds of water with sports filter(?!). Standard is surely better (removes most of the water) and it has longer tube so (in dry) fine dust can be stopped sooner it even reaches the filter. It slows air flow but in the long run it is surely better for engine.
Choosing the correct oil is also important. Choose oil that u'r engine consumes the least. So not too thin because it'll go beside piston rings and not too dense because the piston rings won't be able to clean (going beside again) it while moving down. Denser oil means more friction too, so you must find the best solution for u'r car. Not necessary to take manufacturer's recomendation. Anyway, synthetics are the best option imo.

Driving style: Don't go too fast (more air resistance). Try not to move u'r hand while cornering. With additonal movement while cornering u create more tire friction. For longer tire life let the car flow through the corners and hold the steering wheel in a steady position. I've learned that my car accelerates almost the same when holding 1/3 or full throttle. Tailgating gives less air resistance but can be dangerous, so don't do this.

That's it. I'm gonna have a :beer: now...

cheers!

Just a few comments...


Tyres will be as cool as they're going to get after driving in 30 mins. Also they shouldn't be inflated to much more than a couple of psi above manufacturer's recommendations or your tyres will wear unevenly.



Your 195/65s have a larger profile (bigger ring) than your 175/65s. 65% of 195cm is more than 65% of 175cm. That is how the tyre sizes work, the 175 or 195 is the width of the tyre.



A/C uses power whether you are going up hill or down. So for improved mpg it should be left off all the time, clearly.



The improvements you have observed are as a result of everyhtiong you have doen to your car, and your more careful driving. I think that if you removed the magnets there would be no difference.



A good quality cold air intake can be at least as good for filtration as well as being better for economy/performance. But the ECU should also be altered to allow for extra fuel to match the increased airflow.



If you are changing your oil every 15,000km how are you supposed to test which oil your car uses least? That would take years! By the way it should be changed every 5000 miles or 7500km at the most if you are serious about looking after your engine and maintaining it for consistent mpg. And the manufacturer's recommendation should be followed.



Basically drive smoothly and plan your manouevers, ie look well ahead and be prepared to coast, let of the gas earlier, etc. Cruise control can also help to improve mpg.

Hello again,

As I have written:
''Nth else to do, so I'm writing down some of my experiences.''

I have found this forum very helpful and I like it a lot. I just wanted to write down and share some of my experiences with other Hyundai drivers/enthusiasts. And everything is true, I've been testing, writing down the results, testing again, and so on and on till I came to some final conclusions to which I stick to. So if some of you find this useful in solving u'r problem - excellent, great! Here are included some of the things from my 6 years period of taking notes.

Again...hope this helps!


cheers!

Hi, I own a 1996 lantra with 69,000 miles on the clock. After two years of driving this car I noticed my fuel consumption was rising. A forum I came across suggested using a chemical de-carbon spray which I managed to get from a local motor shop. The spray goes into your air intake hose and cleans up anything on its path. Inside the engine it burns all the carbon deposits from valves,pistons and combustion chamber. Evidence of carbon is seen imediately through the exhaust while you doing this process. After the de-carbon I reset my ECU by removing the negative terminal of the battery + ECU fuse in hood for 10 minutes. (Make sure you warm up engine first)

Initially I thought this was one of those talked about things, however I was amazed at the perfomance of my car after this treatment. Please try it, it works wonders. My fuel economy is up by 30% plus.

Tan

Hi,

I found out that doing regular checks and replacements isn't enough. For getting better mileage 'cheating' is necessary. Just recently I've done coolant bypass (originally inspired by Accent forum), modified std air intake, added magnets on fuel line, and started using 100 oct fuel (not cheating).

Anyway, while using 100 oct fuel I got better response while going up the hill in 5th gear. When I did coolant bypass I also removed resonator from air intake and I made it easier for front air to come inside into the intake tube (will add some pics soon). With this mod the engine is responding quicker to gas pedal, and I'm getting a nice roar above 3500 rpm. About those magnets: found out in the end that they don't help with mileage a lot, but it keeps me wondering how much brighter, cleaner(no sparks) and longer(10cm) is the flame of that burner we have for central heating after I've put three packs of magnets on it's fuel hose. I tested my car without and with magnets, and there is a big difference in exhaust quality though it's surprisingly not noticeable in (much) lower FC. I think that greater improvements can be noticed on older car models(especially with carburettor and no ECU).
I'll post some pics of the engine and some recent mileage results regarding 100oct fuel and bypass+intake mod.


cheers!

This post has been edited by marek46: Oct 5 2008, 04:47 PM

Hello,

Mileage results regarding 100oct fuel and bypass+intake mod: 32.6, 33.4, 33.3mpg (before was around 35 or 36mpg with standard air intake and no bypass mod). Btw: it's autumn here; temps are 5 C morning and 14 C midday. I was driving carefully. Haven't reset the CPU.

Both (front and bottom) air intake resonators isolated: Bad idea...don't do this.




I've read some reports about WAI (warm air intake) and I think I went into the wrong way. The car really pulls up the hill with these mods but I'm more concerned in FE(fuel efficiency) than in power. Reports say that with colder intake air butterfly-valve has to be less opened for getting the same power as with warm air:butterfly has to be opened more to get the same power. FE suffers when we close the butterfly valve(decelerating) and open (accelerating) too often. With warm air intakes valve is more opened so there is less chance of closing it completely. Warmer air also helps with cleaner burning and better vaporising of fuel. IAT(reading warmer air) retards/delays the valve timing so less power is gained - IMO for compensating this effect higher octane fuel should be used. IAT also gives CPU info for fuel/air mixture: colder=richer(more power, less mpg) and warmer=leaner(less power, more mpg). Some say that warm air may really help with quicker engine warm up and with better burn and leaner running, but it retards valve timing so no gain is noticed. Basically there should be no differences with cold(advanced timing) or warm(retarded timing). IMO the quality fuel-burn is more important on the long run(less deposits).

I'm gonna:
-undo coolant bypass,
-remove front intake tube and leave only filter-box making my own WAI,
-leave the magnets on the fuel line,
-continue using 100 octane fuel.

Engine will heat-up sooner(good), it will run hotter (bad, but not really noticeable), throttle won't get shut-off so often(good), less peak-power will be available(bad, but doesn't bother me), air travel will be half way shorter(good).

Some pictures of my next testing:



And some maintenance work:




cheers...

This post has been edited by marek46: Oct 24 2008, 04:55 PM