Hi there,

Right, here's my situation.

I recently had new discs and pads on the front (the discs had worn right down - after 100,000 miles) and also a new clutch, as this was slipping like crazy!

I've had the car for 3 years so this was (I'm assuming) due to age.

The breaks were great, so much sharper. However, my rear brakes have been pretty much non-functional, due to the handbrake mechanism seizing up which apparently wrecks the hole caliper.

This has led to a grinding noise from the rear which now is more of a squeel at 70mph ish.

Then, the brakes go all sloppy and the clutch started slipping again!

My mechanic suggested that the hydraulic fluid for the brakes was boiling in the rear calipers and this is causing the loss of performance, for the brakes AND the clutch?!? The clutch manufacturer says they have had no bother with this clutch and model of car.

So the big question here is, do the brakes and the clutch use the same hydraulic fluid from the same reservoir? Or am I lookin at some other gremlin to explain the slippy clutch?

It's in on wednesday next week for the rear brakes to get done and I'm just hoping that's it sorted as I can't afford another clutch!

So, could anyone enlighten me? Please!

Thanks in advance

G

Dear Granular,

Just to clarify your problems:

The rear brake caliper is non-functional due to the handbrake seizing? does this affect both sides of the rear brakes? Now have a grinding noise from the rear.

The brake hydraulic system and the clutch hydraulic system are independent systems with two reservoirs and two master cylinders. The brake system is not affecting the clutch.

Proper adjustment of the park brake is one of the steps in a rear brake pad replacement. Are you sure he cleaned all the corrosion from the guide pins, or replaced? This allows your brake pads to 'float' when not receiving pressure from the caliper piston. If the pads are 'frozen', they will not release and consequently will wear very rapidly.

Also, how old is your brake fluid??? It is cheap, replace with new and bleed the air from the system. If your brakes are going soft, this is indicative of water contaminating the fluid, which converts to steam under hard braking pressure, which gives you soft brakes. Brake fluid is cheap, just replace.

If your brake fluid is old enough to become contaminated with moisture, then probably your clutch fluid is also contaminated. It is is supposed to appear almost water clear. Dark brown or black color is contaminated and old. The clutch uses DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. Replace and bleed air from the clutch hydraulic system.

Slippy clutch? open the bonnet. have a helper engage and disengage the clutch while you inspect the movement of the clutch slave cylinder and engagement fork under the bonnet on top of the transmission. Is the little rod in the end of the slave cylinder moving the engagement fork freely? If the slave cylinder rod is not moving freely, you have air in the hydraulic system. If the rod is moving/trying to move but the engagement fork is not moving then you have an improperly assembled clutch. If the rod moves, the fork moves, but the clutch still slips, then you may have a leaking rear engine oil seal that is throwing oil on the clutch friction material...which makes it nice and slippery.

Byron

l think you miss-read the post byron. the rear brakes have not yet been touched. but byron is right on his advice, l might add that there is an issue with your clutch instalation and your mechanic is trying to get out of it be telling you fairy tales. if there was any problem with leaking oil seals or hydrolics this should have been addressed at the time your clutch was done. as byron said the is no connection between the brakes and the clutch. if l were you l would insist that your clutch problem is put right free of charge

You need to replace whichever of your rear calipers is seized. But no the clutch and the brake hydraulic systems are totally separate.

Hi there,

Thankyou all for your detailed and informative responses.

They confirmed what I was kind of expecting.

Had the car in yesterday for the calipers and handbrake, that all works great now.

They also found my nearside wheel bearing to be on its very last legs, almost dragging the wheel. Could this cause the clutch to slip?

The mechanics couldn't replicate the clutch slipping! Even after 2 test drives.

When I picked up the car and drove out of the industrial estate it did it straight away in 1st and 2nd so I spun round and went straight back!

Got the head mechanic to come out with ME driving - maybe I have a heavier right foot (?!) - he had to admit that it was a real phenomenon and so will 'get something sorted for me' which I take to be either free or substantially cheaper.

I would expect a clutch designed for this car to be able to take what the engine can give or am I wrong?

Anyway, should have it all resolved next week!

Thanks again, as always very helpful. :thumbsup:

Regards

G

This post has been edited by Granular: Feb 14 2008, 06:39 AM