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Don't worry, it's not hard. I'm one of the most talentless mechanics I know and I managed it! Yes, you do have to remove the entire module from the outside of the vehicle, but it is a five minute job once you're there.
1) Open the boot door.
2) There are three Phillips (i.e. cross-head) screws (one piece with integral washers), one on top of the module and two on the side towards the boot. Remove these three and the whole light module will come away from the car easily. A lead taking power from the car to the lamps will remain (so don't pull too hard!) but you can get the light module about a foot away from the car - enough to get to the back.
3) Now dead easy - the bulbs are all in individual fittings and you just unscrew the fitting for the bulb you want to change. The bulbs are a bayonnet fitting, so you just twist the old one out and twist the new one in like you would with many domestic bulbs. The bulb and socket are designed so bulb can only be fitted in one orientation, so if your bulb won't go in first time, turn it through 180 degrees and try again.
4) Put it all back together and test. The brake light bulb is a double-filament bulb that does both brake light and tail-light.
For those near a branch, Halfords flogged me a pack of two own-brand replacement bulbs for about £2.50 - Part no. 380, named Exterior/Interior Bulb 12v 21/5w (may or may not be a good price but who cares, it's still not much).
Hope that's enough - also enough for anyone else lost in Hyundai's comprehensive documentation with really bad index. It isn't hard, just an initial double-take when you think; "surely they can't intend me to..." :)
Ian
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