I'm in need for a new head gasket and I need help for taking the head apart. My timing belt is pretty new so it won't be changed. Where should I beging and what should I know? Do I need any special tools? How can I take the timing belt away from the head cam?

And don't say that take your car to the shop. I won't take it. I just have never took head away and I just need a little help for that.

So all the help is welcome. My basic knowledge is pretty good. My last job was changing the valve stem seals without taking head apart and when I asked help, everybody just sayed that don't do it yourself, take it to the shop. And it was pretty **** easy job when I learned it by myself.

http://img382.imageshack.us/slideshow/play...6312794yyw.smil

Come on :/

i really dont know, mayb youll can look it up in the shopmanual

Dear topini,

The procedure is pretty easy just tedious and exacting for a propoer seal. Why are you changing the head gasket, as this part is not routine maintenance? Do you have a blown head gasket? How badly did you overheat the engine?

Can you work from Hyundia Shop Manuals in English, or do you need Finnish? If yes, see
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/performa...00&brandid=4386

this tool will make the your job MUCH easier. I realize you are in Finland; this tool is shown for clarity only. this will operate from your cigarette lighter outlet.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=92349

Byron

Hello,

I blew my gasket with bleed valve :/
Yes I have english car manual and I can understand it.

But the question is, how to get timing belt off from the head (easiest way, timing belt is pretty new so it doesn't need to be replaced).

And i guess these bolts ( http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/4443/headnl6.jpg red arrow) keep the head in place? What kind of tool opens them?


I realise that these questions may sound a little amateur, but I am willing to learn and don't want to make any mistakes.

:)

This post has been edited by Topini: Aug 12 2007, 01:40 PM

Get a Accent Gasket take to Head gasket engineers and get them to make one out of copper for you.....

Ok, but I thought that this car had fuel cut when boost goes over 1bar? My boost went 1.3bar and thats when this happened. I hope that my pistons are okay...

Hey dude what where you boostong before it went to 1.3? i personaly have Boosted 1.7 on stock engine but stoped making power at 1.2 already. so if your engine wasnt setup to accomodate the correct amount of feul and Octane then u should be worried. Size OF intercooler? Feul pressure ?

the bolts you pointed to are called "allen caps" and yes they remove the head...in a scoupe they are metric size "10"

...to get the cambelt off of the timing pulleys you must take the tension off of it by pulling the tensioner back (with something that isn't sharp!) and then the belt will slip off


...and as a footnote...i think that very well demonstrates why bleed valves...and rempas should be left to people who know EXACTLY what is going to happen

I agree with the bleed valve. I was way too careless :whistling:


Yes thank you for your answer, but how can I ensure that the timing will be exactly same when I put the belt back? I have spare time next weekend and then I'm changing the gasket.

by retiming the cam and the crank.

the cam has a little hole in it around the edge somewhere, which lines up with the a little cut-out near the front of the head.

the crank has a little dot pressed into it, and lines up with the 0degress mark on the bottom cover...

but its not a simple as that....you have to know exactly where the marks are...but i think that the HMA online service manual or whatever it is has it.

Has anyone actually changed the timing belt to this car? I'm having problems with space, for example the water pump pulley, how the **** can I get it out? the job seems pretty easy if the engine would be appart :)

yeah i had that problem, because i put the water pump back on first, and then tried to put the cambelt on after.

the easiest way to get the cambelt back off is to take the pully off of the water pump, which i believe are four 8mm bolts on the outside of the pulley. And I think that you have to leave the water pump on, because it is near on impossible to put it back on with the cambelt on! good luck

The job was pretty easy, when you know how to do it :)

But one question about the head main bolts. On manual, there is tightening order and a tightening torque. Do I just put one pult, tighten it to its propper torque, then take another bolt and tighten it.

And when I'm done, warm up the car, and tighten all with given warm torque?

This post has been edited by Topini: Jan 20 2008, 07:37 PM

Dear Topini!

Wow, you are still working on this head gasket change!

The internal allen head bolts are a pre-stressed bolt. You must follow the torque sequence exactly. You should always torque in 4-5 stages with aluminum heads.

I recommend that you use a thread 'chaser' tool to make sure the block has sharp and clean threads before installing the head bolts. this reduces the chances of stripping or cross threading.

For example, with the US spec engine, you could torque in stages as follows:

1) 30 lb ft
2) 45 lb ft
3) 54 lb ft
4) drive the car 80-120 km, then re-torque hot to 61 lb ft.


The US spec information for a cold engine torque is:

Nm 70-75
Kg.cm 700-750
lb.ft 51-54

Byron

Yes, i'm still working on it. As I mentioned, i was in the army so the car was just standing in my garage. But now I got out of there and got time. The car is almost ready, I'm wondering is my timing right; here are some pics, so maybe someone can help me:

Headcam
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/4150/2008011919121ap2.jpg
Crankshaft
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/7716/2008011919122vh5.jpg

Is timing right or what? When I start my car, there is just one problem, the engine goes out if I don't help it with some gas. Sometimes it won't just go out, when it is just about to go out, it'l raise the rpm's to 3000 and then rpm's drop and then it raises them to 3000 etc. What could be the problem? I checked the wires, I didn't notice anything strange.


It was nice to hear my Scoupe growling in a long time :beer:

Can someone confirm, is my timing right. The picture from the factory manual sucks, and the timing marks can be taken in a two different way...

did you solve the problem yet?


otherwise check all your vacuum lines to the intake, and also check if he isnt getting false air somewhere.. cause its sure sounds like that.


it isnt that hard to change the timingbelt, i replaced mine once in half an hour.
you only have to remember when you start you get the no. 1 piston at tdc.
and then dont turn crank or cam any more.

as seen on the pic it looks good, but on the crank you made the pic on an angle and not straight so its difficult to see.

but if it should be one teeth of or not it shouldnt be the problem for reving high out stalling.

Greetings,

No, I have not yet solved the problem; I don't have a warm place to be and it's winter :)

But yes, as a matter of fact, it does sound like an airleakage... I just can't figure where. What about the 2 hoses connecting to the throttle body, does it matter which one goes where ( http://img203.imagevenue.com/img.php?image...y_122_102lo.JPG ).

I just losted my nerve, everything went well, and now my dear scoupe won't keep running and because of the weather studying it is a ****.

What else on Scoupes excluding air leakege causes this?
Next job is to check preasures from the cylinders (never know if one valve is stuck or something).

This post has been edited by Topini: Feb 21 2008, 06:54 PM