Hello,

I have just finished replacing the timing belt on my sister 2002 accent.

The worst was the Water Pump Pulley.
In the HMA Service web page they say "Remove Water Pump Pully"
Yeah right!
You have to support the motor with a jack, remove left Motor Mount,
Jack the motor enough to get access to those 4 bolts holding the water pump pully.
Hold the pully when you are trying to unscrew those bolts...

And you need a impact gun for removing the pully on the crankshaft.

They was supposed to have only one timing mark.... I found 2 ....
on the camshaft.
And the alingment mark is way down... not in 90 degres from top.

The crankshaft no problemo... was easy...

The belt cost me $65 CAN at Piece d'auto cote.
and he take me around 4-5 hours.

yeah when i was messing around with that also thought it was a btich then i made a hole above my tire so i can just put a socket on them one at a time then it became simple

Dear Ret,

If you had asked:

The forum would have told you to loosen the water pump pulley bolts just to break the torque first, while the belt was still on and providing resistance to turning. This is not in ANY BOOK, but you definitely learn this at the Skinned & Bleeding Knuckle Academy of Hard Knocks.

Also, an electric impact wrench is a lifesaver. I just finished a timing belt change on a 2002 Kia Spectra with the Hyundai Beta 1.8 liter engine (surprise!). After much frustration trying to break 125 lb feet on the bolt, went and bought an electric impact wrench, an hardened impact extension, and a 22mm impact socket from Harbor Freight Tools. they just had a sale on the 1/2 inch drive model for $39.99. Best money you will ever spend if you do any work on the suspension or exhaust system, as these are always rusted on bolts.

Also, Sears has ratcheting wrench set that is invaluable for close clearances accessing the pulleys of a tranverse mount engine. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

I condensed a 3 hour job the previous night to 20 minutes. Seriously. Well worth the one-time invesment in an impact wrench.

Byron

I actually replaced my timing belt about 2 months ago when I hit 78k. I went to Hyundai and bought the belt for $58.00 and the terror insued..

I actually started hearing like a slapping noise 3 months back and it started to annoy me because.. I keep my car prestine and it should be quiet. So, I removed the timing cover and started the car, and to my horrified eyes I saw a timing belt hobbling and slapping.. (I took my camera out to it and recorded it for future entertainment lol).

The procedure on taking the belt off qas retardedly easy;

- Loosened Alternator
- Loosened Powersteering
- Removed Drive/Acc Belts
- Removed Powersteering Pulley
- Removed Drive Pulley
- Removed Top Timing Cover
- Jacked up passenger side
- Removed passenger front tire
- Removed lower timing cover

Now it gets interesting.. this is why the job takes so long, atleast for me so learn from my mistakes please people. Avoid this and it will take under an hour.[/B]

As I went to loosen the tension pulley.. I loosened just a bit to much and the tensioner spring popped around. That was my doom for the evening.. but the order of events continue.

- Removed timing belt (Timing marks where indicated on both pulleys/wall)
- Fitted timing belt top timing pully
- Fitting timing belt around tensioner
- Spent 3 hours getting the spring clip back around tensioner
- Reverse of top half of events

Was a very loud and vulgar experience, but rewarding. My old timing belt had 8 teeth missing. So I'm glad I had OCD that day or I'd be on the side of the road.

By the way I'm new here. My name is Brandon (Hello everyone) and I live in the wiregrass area of alabama (Dothan to Eufaula to Ozark area).

This post has been edited by Brandon in AL: Jul 27 2007, 12:38 AM

The clearance (or lack of it) for the water pump/steering pulley against the wheel well is an absolute ****. And impossible to access..

I love how most posters gloss over the no-clearance issue... just remove them.. duh..

I was thinking of drilling through the wheel well and using an extension socket, but I may try jacking the engine first.. though I don't want to bust anything.

Thanks for the post, now I know that it may be possible to just jack the engine

I find it quite easy to remove install water pump pulley bolts with the proper tools procedures. But I guess thats why people pay me to do them insted of my laying on my back for eight hours drilling holes in the frame/body of my car.

I'm curious, what are the proper tools and procedure?

Same here.

The only way I found is to remove the motor mount and jack the engine with a floor jack (with a piece of wood) under the oil pan.

You can jack it pretty good without any damage...

Hi

I am replacing the timing belt on a 1999 Accent 1.5 SOHC Automatic trans.

I got the crank pulley bolt OFF with an electric impact wrench with a torque of 250lbs.

Question - how do I properly torque the bolt when I reinstall the pulley? I have a torque wrench but the crank will turn. I could probably come pretty close with the impact wrench but I'd hate to guess at it.

Thanks

Harry

I did not torque the bolt. I have just use the impact gun until it stop.

With a electric impact gun push it the max you can and it will be enough.

Regards,

Jonathan Lévesque

Break the bolts loose with the belts on or if you forget jack the motor up and use two 10mm long pattern snapon box wrenches to break the tension, take the belts off, let the motor hang and reach up from the underside and use the long pattern snappy box wrench to spin the waterpump so the bolt will screw itself out. Repeat for the other three. The pulleys can be worked off the pump if you jack the motor up and you can then remove the cover bolt hidden by the pulley. Installation is the reverse of removal. The pulley and bolts are best installed with the motor jacked up. Use a block of wood so you don't dent the oilpan as you raise and lower it.

Removing the water pump pulley on a 2000 Accent can be accomplished using a 10mm offset wrench, which allows access to the bolts recessed into the pulley center. I used this wrench: http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDisplay?...catalogId=12605

Once I had the wrench, not much problem.

Also, you could probably also use a socket cap like one of these : http://www.sears.com/shc/s/ProductDisplay?...catalogId=12605

Not much room to work with, but less risky than jacking the engine out of the engine compartment I would think.

Thanks for your input.

Maybe I'm too cheap.
but I will not buy a $11.00 tools for that job.

I prefer Jacking the motor and removing one motor mount

I dont remove the motor totally and I dont jack up too much
just enough to pass a normal ratchet.

Regards,

Jonathan Lévesque