Hi all

A friend and I are rebuilding the engine of a 1994 lantra. The head gasket was on it's last legs and there's quite a bit of engine ware - especially on the rockers. To be honest I haven't had much experience around engines so I can't give a very good diagnostic. That's partly the reason for the post today. -- Can YOU recommend any books/sites/postings that show the 'anatomy' of a Hyundai-lantra engine? And/Or something that can give a good description on what to look for when assessing engines? I want to be able to offer a good second opinion to my friend (who is a training mechanic) when we're; pulling the engine apart, looking for replacement parts, and rebuilding.

The exact model is: a 1994 Hyundai lantra gls 16V

If you've rebuilt the engine of an early 90s Lantra and have any warnings or suggestions please post a short message.

It's a big job, and I'm looking forward to it. She'll live again!

Thanks for your time everyone

Best regards

from

Huss

Hi huss,

I'm assuming that at this stage that you have the engine removed from the vehicle.

I believe that the engine is actually a 1.8 litre Mitsubishi unit (4g63(?))of some merit.

If you haven't already got one, get an engine stand. It makes life very simple.

Having stripped the engine down, I would suggest that you visit your local engineering shop and have them clean the block and hone/bore the cylinders. Take your crank and rods with you and get advice on linishing/regrinding of the journals. Spend a little and get the rotating mass balanced. It is definitely worth it.

The same shop should be able to freshen up the head for you as well. DO NOT SKIP THIS. I hope I've made that point.

Buying genuine replacement parts is probably your best bet, depending on the level of tuning envisaged. Replace all seals and gaskets with new. If you are going a bit hardcore, then consult a reputable tuner.

Most of YOUR effort should be directed at reassembly with emphasis on being patient and using appropriate engine building lubricants where required. Get a Haynes manual or similar and FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. Minimalise the use of, or be careful in the use of, silicon gasket products.

Replace the clutch, the water pump, check the oil pump for tolerance and replace if necessary.

Rebuilding is very satisfying and doing a great job is even more so.

Hope the above helps.

Good fortune to you.

Cheers,

Andrew :thumbsup:

Yes, the early Elantra 16v engines are Mitsubishi Sirius engines. The 1.8 is basically a 4G 6-bolt block with the same strock only smaller bore as a 4G63 (2.0). I've rebuilt a few 4G63s and even my little 1.6 version in my 95 Elantra.

Sign up for an account at HMA HERE

You'll get access to the full Factory Service Manual at the HMA site.

Once you're logged in click on "Service Information" in the upper left corner. After that it's pretty self explanatory.

If you have any particular questions, email me through the forum.

HI, I AM NEW TO THE HYUNDAI WORLD AND HAVE FOUND THAT THERE ARE SEVERAL PITFALLS WITH THE HYUNDAI/MITSUBISHI 1.8 ENGINE. WHAT I HAVE SEEN OF YOUR PLAN OF ACTION SO FAR IS GOOD. I WOULD LIKE TO ADD A FEW WORDS OF ADVICE TO THE PLAN.
WHATEVER ELSE YOU DO, REPLACE THE CAM TIMING BELT AND THE OIL PUMP TIMING BELT WITH THE BEST QUALITY BELTS YOU CAN FIND. ALSO, REPLACE THE TIMING BELT TENSIONER AND IDLER PULLEY. THESE ENGINES ARE PRONE TO HAVING THE TIMING BELT JUMP A FEW TEETH ON THE CAM PULLEY WHEN THE BELT TENSIONER GETS A LITTLE TIRED. USUALLY, IT IS THE INLET CAM AND VOILA! BENT VALVES AND OTHER UNGODLY DAMAGE TO YOUR ENGINE INTERNALS. NOT GOOD AFTER INVESTING A PILE OF $$$s IN YOUR TREASURE
A LITTLE MORE, TAKE GREAT CARE TO GET THE BALANCE SHAFT TIMING SPOT ON OR YOU WILL HAVE AN ENGINE THAT SHAKES LIKE THE PROVERBIAL DOG CR**PING RAZOR BLADES.
HOW DO I KNOW ALL THIS? I HAVE A 1994 HYUNDAI LANTRA 1.8L 16 VALVE DOHC SITTING IN MY DRIVEWAY WITH ALL OF THE DAMAGE DESCRIBED, PLUS AFTER THE VALVES HIT THE PISTONS, THE CAM LOCKED UP AND SHEARED THE PULLEY LOCATING DOWEL IN THE END OF THE INLET CAM. I HAVE NOT BOTHERED EVEN LIFTING THE HEAD. I AM GETTING A REPLACEMENT MOTOR. IT TURNED OUT CHEAPER TO BUY A GOOD SECOND HAND MOTOR (ACTUALLY A WHOLE CAR REAR ENDED) THAN REBUILDING. $300. CHEERS

All good suggestions so far. I will just add that you should look at removing the balance shafts from this engine if you are rebuilding it as the BS belt is a disaster waiting to happen. Plus the NVH isn't significantly increased - most people cant tell they're not there.

Google search for "4G63 balance shaft removal" and you will find scores of knowledge regarding how to do this using 1.6L 4G61/G4CR engine parts (the stock 4G61 aka G4CR motor is not fitted with balance shafts).

Thanks guys! That's all great advice.

Sorry for the late repy though, it's just that I've been flat out with other things recently. I've been so busy that the project is on the backburner for the next few months.

I think all that I'll be doing for the lantra over the next few months is reading up on the Haynes manual and checking out the HMA docs. I'll also have to weigh up if it's worth rebuilding or not.

She'll live again but just not in the next few months :)

Anyway, if you're reading this post and do have further suggestions or warnings, write a quick post. Someone out there will have the same project and need help, for sure!

Good fortune to you all

From

Huss

Hi xir8_au. Removing the balance shaft altogether may be a little risky as it is supplied with oil from the main oil gallery and to remove it would leave the gallery open, reducing oil pressure supply to the crank and big end bearings, wouldn't it?
I once worked with a firm by the name of Repco who recondition engines in Australia and we did thousands of mitsubishi engines, particularly the ones with balance shafts. Leaving the shaft out was never even considered. Cheers :grin:

Removing the balance shafts isn't really risky if you do it properly. The best thing to do is buy a balance shaft eliminator kit for a 4G63. This will come with replacement bushings for the shaft bearings. Effectively sealing off the oil ports. Also should come with a stub shaft so you can still run your oil pump but not the associated balance shaft. Simply removing the shafts will lead to immediate engine failure as you'll have no oil pressure.

Hyundai put balance shafts on the 1.6 from '94 on. My little 1.6 has balance shafts. One for the oil pump and one up front. Timing kit I bought came with new b/s belt and idler as well as timing belt and pulleys.

Anyway, during a rebuild about the only bottom end parts you want to keep are block, crank, rods, pistons, pickup tube, oil pan. Provided you don't need an overbore then you'll need new pistons. You should replace oil and water pumps.

With parts, machine shop work, fluids, hoses and other misc. expenses a full rebuild could easily be $1,000 or more.

There was a brand new, never installed, 1.8 G4 motor on ebay a few weeks ago for less than $500. Timing is everything.

You could always drop in a 2.0. 4G63's are easy to find. JDM non-turbo 4G63's usually go pretty cheap.

This post has been edited by Myetball: Aug 1 2006, 11:25 PM

Hi Graham7773, you can remove the BS no problems. To block off the oil galleries for the BS you just remove the existing bearing shell and reinstall it with the oil hole misaligned which effectively blocks the gallery opening.

The front balance shaft is removed and the hole in the timing case blocked off. The rear balance shaft is removed and replaced with a stub shaft from the 4G61 motor.

The process is detailed here:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/balance-shafts.html

edit: jinx! Myetball beat me to it. :)

This post has been edited by xlr8_au: Aug 1 2006, 11:31 PM

That brand new 1.8 is back on Ebay, or another one. Dont remember if it sold the first time.

CLICK HERE

Yep the 1.8 is back. This time it's $800+. Still cheap but I need one in Australia and freight is going to be poisonous!