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Best Catch Can Kit for the Money?

26K views 38 replies 10 participants last post by  chrisberry1969@gmail.com 
#1 ·
#2 ·
I have the Add W1 v1 occ, it does a good job at catching the oil on the pcv valve side. Though if you keep the same setup as stock you will need to make sure you don't have any leaks. Since this hose goes directly to the intake manifold if you have a leak you will lose power.

Some say the Add W1 is a junk design since it uses an O-ring to seal the can where it separates. Since this can is collecting hot oil the can gets extremely hot and the o-rings stretch out and the can doesn't seal anymore. I haven't experienced the failure yet but have heard horror stories about it.

Here's a picture of the Add W1 installed in my car on the pcv side.



The Add W1 does have a baffle in the top that helps separate the oil particles from the air, though a better similarly priced option would be a Mishimoto Baffled can.

The Mishimoto has a 50 micron filter in the top and a baffle at the bottom. The only downside to this can is that it's smaller and must be emptied more often.
I haven't bought one yet but plan to buy this can soon and move the Add W1 to the drivers side on the intake.

Here's links to both cans.

Add W1 Black Baffled Universal Aluminum Oil Catch Tank Can Reservoir Tank Ver 1 | eBay

https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMBCC-MSTWO-BK-Compact-Baffled-2-Port/dp/B00OBEP51K

Best option if you want to spend the money (larger Mishimoto Baffled Can)

https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMBCC-UNI-BK-Black-Baffled-Catch/dp/B00CJ6JHCK
 
#39 ·
I have the ADD W1 as well. The large o-ring on mine failed a long time ago but I can't tell any difference without it. Been running like this for over 100K miles without issue. A little hard to loosen to empty but no big deal there.

Highly recommend!



I have the Add W1 v1 occ, it does a good job at catching the oil on the pcv valve side. Though if you keep the same setup as stock you will need to make sure you don't have any leaks. Since this hose goes directly to the intake manifold if you have a leak you will lose power.

Some say the Add W1 is a junk design since it uses an O-ring to seal the can where it separates. Since this can is collecting hot oil the can gets extremely hot and the o-rings stretch out and the can doesn't seal anymore. I haven't experienced the failure yet but have heard horror stories about it.

Here's a picture of the Add W1 installed in my car on the pcv side.



The Add W1 does have a baffle in the top that helps separate the oil particles from the air, though a better similarly priced option would be a Mishimoto Baffled can.

The Mishimoto has a 50 micron filter in the top and a baffle at the bottom. The only downside to this can is that it's smaller and must be emptied more often.
I haven't bought one yet but plan to buy this can soon and move the Add W1 to the drivers side on the intake.

Here's links to both cans.

Add W1 Black Baffled Universal Aluminum Oil Catch Tank Can Reservoir Tank Ver 1 | eBay

https://www.amazon.com/Mishimoto-MMBCC-MSTWO-BK-Compact-Baffled-2-Port/dp/B00OBEP51K

Best option if you want to spend the money (larger Mishimoto Baffled Can)

Amazon.com: Mishimoto Baffled Oil Catch Can, Black: Automotive
 
#3 ·
Catch Cans from about $30 to $300?

Thanks for the reply. I really need to avoid repeating the woes in my other Thread. There seem to be lots of various Catch Cans from about $30 to $300. (RX is at the high end. Some eBay ones seem to be little more than a Can with 2 ports and nothing inside to facilitate condensation of the Vapor.)

I had found the Add W1 but not the Mishimoto. The latter does seem like it could be a better option but it only has a 2 ounce capacity. It looks like it too has a rubber O Ring separating the tank from the upper potion of the tank. I wonder how much volume should be expected between Oil Changes and it this could handle it? How much does your Add W1collect between Oil Changes?

I've found lots of references to install one on the PVC side of an Engine, but I've never heard of adding a second one on the drivers (clean) side on the intake.


RX says: "While the catch can eliminates most of the oil and condensates which come through the dirty side, the clean side separator, as the name implies, takes care of the little bit that can come through the clean side.

Here is a brief explanation:

Anytime the throttle is opened more than 2/3, reversion pulses cancel any measurable vacuum inside the intake manifold . The PCV system at this time stops evacuating and pressure builds in the crankcase pushing oil vapors backwards out the fresh side inlet allowing ingestion. The Clean Side Separator will intercept these vapors"


I wonder if this would be the better setup?


I just contacted RX Speedworks and said:


"Hi, I'm looking for the most cost effective method to avoid Carbon buildup in my 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0t Limited. I just had to get the Head rebuilt and the Dealer said it's due to Carbon Build up causing the Head to overheat resulting a Plug ground strap failure that took out an exhaust valve.
He says the only effective remediation is to pull the manifold and clean the intake valve area every 40,000 to 60,000 Miles.
Will your system eliminate this? Can you advise what percentage of contaminants remain after using your Catch Can with & without a clean side separator. Of course this all assumes your system will fit on the Sonata 2.0t engine.
Your prompt reply would be appreciated.
Regards,
Jim"



By the way RX claims this will improve mileage: From their FAQs "The average is 1-3 miles per gallon depending on the vehicle application."

I hope you and other members will post here with your experience on any Catch Cans with the 2.0t Hyundai Engine.


Thanks for the assist. :wink:
 
#4 ·
You already know to stay away from the cheap cans on Ebay,so thats good...:smile: Several members are using the Add W1 can with success as well as the Mishimoto can. I decided on the UPR can which was first installed on our 2014 YF. That same can is on our 2015 LF.

I would have no problem putting any of the above on my car. Below is a link to a thread on the UPR can made quite some time ago.Which of the three is the best? I cannot answer that,but,all three of these will work and limit some of what normally would go back into your engine.

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/lf-2015-sonata-i45/406402-upr-catch-can-long-term-evaluation.html
 
#5 ·
Not sure about the others, but the ADD W1 that I installed has a dipstick which is a very nice feature. No need to remove cup to check level. In the 6 months it has been on, I doubt I have collected more than one ounce.................. which makes me feel good about engine condition.

The comments on the "O" ring make no sense. There are many more rings installed in much hotter places and they function fine. That can is in an air flow area, the oil is mixed with air, I doubt it gets that hot. Even if it did, a good part would have no problem.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks Airforce1.


I read all the posts, (& everything else I can find) and from what I gathered there and elsewhere it seems the amount of fluid captured is somewhat directly proportional to climatic conditions. I live in Metro Vancouver, BC, Canada which is quite moist (Temperate Rainforest) but rarely sees freezing temperatures. Dryer climates would obviously not have the humidity in the air that would increase the volume od condensate produced. I read a lot of post from Florida, and some videos too, where folks routinely have full catch cans - especially in summer when - according to one video - it rains almost every day in the summer. I can't find any posts from the west coast of North America (Seattle, Portland, etc.) to see how they fare (similar climate to Vancouver), but I'm thinking I'll need something the size of an Add W1 can here if I only want to change it every Oil Change.


I'm blown away there isn't more noise about this issue as it's inherent to all Direct Injection engines regardless of OEM => unless they take mitigation measures. I've only been able to find install videos for the PVC side. So I need to know if putting it on the "clean side" offers much benefit. (So far I see a very minor amount is caught on that side.)


As my car has been under warranty until the recent episode, I typically have let the dealer do any tinkering other than I changed the plugs, filters, etc. So I don't even know where the "clean side" hoses connect. I'm planning on installing one soon but will probably get it from the USA as availability here seems poor. If I go with an Add W1 can, I'm thinking of drilling and tapping a hole to put a drain tap in the bottom like I saw on the McNally cans at RX Speedworks.


All comment will be appreciated. ;)
 
#7 ·
The earlier Add W1 cans came with a cheap nylon looking hose.Not sure if they still ship with the same hose.If you do go with that can,
do yourself a favor and buy better hose at your local auto parts store.Its very economical and will stand up much better to under hood heat over time. Unless you mount the can in a very tight spot,you really do not have to have a drain on the bottom,but,thats your choice. I have a petcock at the bottom of mine,but,I have never used it. I prefer to unscrew the bottom of the can where I empty the contents into a measuring cup and then clean and wipe it with brake kleen. I have spare o-rings that seal the can but still use the original going on more than 2 years.Either way,you should be fine.
 
#9 ·
After extensive research about two years ago, I picked the Saikou Michi OCCs (PCV&Intake). I have both the PCV and IC cans with the added ball valves and extended drain hoses for very easy, no mess draining. They are hand made with brackets included and work very well in my application. However, I don't think you really need to put the OCI on the IC side like I did. Save your money and just do the PCV side. It took about 10 weeks for them to come due to extreme back-order but I think they are well worth the money. Their design is recognized as one of the better ones on the market.

Hi Gents,


I'm leaning towards the Add W1 can due to a lot of positive information so far. RX Speedworks never responded on their McNally can, so I guess they aren't interested. I checked out the Saikou Michi and like that it comes with a bracket made to the Sonata, and a built in drain, but I can't find any drawings or photos of the inside components. I'm wary of hollow cans with nothing in them.


I've seen Add W1 cans that have a little external hose to show the level, but that looks like a potential trouble spot so I'll stay away from those. Besides, I can't find any drawings or photos of the inside components for that one either.


The Kia Optima store has Add W1 Version 2 catch cans with a filter on the top. I don't know the purpose of the filter, nor if it has a check valve to allow air to only pass into the can. I also don't know what impact letting air into the circuit does (positive or negative) to the engine. Do you have any ideas or comments on this? Is Version 2 more efficient? Should I not bother with Version 2 and stick to Version 1?


Seems like I've still got a few questions. Hopefully I can find the answers. :wink:
 
#8 ·
After extensive research about two years ago, I picked the Saikou Michi OCCs (PCV&Intake). I have both the PCV and IC cans with the added ball valves and extended drain hoses for very easy, no mess draining. They are hand made with brackets included and work very well in my application. However, I don't think you really need to put the OCI on the IC side like I did. Save your money and just do the PCV side. It took about 10 weeks for them to come due to extreme back-order but I think they are well worth the money. Their design is recognized as one of the better ones on the market.
 
#12 ·
I would not use a can with a top filter mount as vapors will be vented into the engine compartment.
 
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#13 ·
Hi Gents,

I'm zeroing in on a couple catch can designs but I'm struggling if these have enough volume to allow them to be routinely drained every oil change. I can't find much on the expected volume to be captured for a 2.0t. Can you comment?


Although I generally like the Saikou Michi OCCs, there is no way to clean the internals as it looks like it's Tig or Mig welded together. So I'm thinking I'll give that one a pass.


I'm focussed in on spending about $100 US max. Both the Add W1, and Mishimoto Compact are about that on eBay with free shipping to the USA. Here's the Pros & Cons for me so far:


The Add W1 is still #1 on the list as I like everything about it except the hose it comes with is supposedly crap, there is no filter, and the mount is not adjustable.


I also like the Mishimoto Compact Baffled Oil Catch Can (https://www.mishimoto.com/compact-baffled-oil-catch-can-2-port.html). It has no hose, plastic fittings instead of metal - one of which will need to be replaced to fit the Sonata anyway so I'd buy two, a little smaller with only 2 ounce capacity, no dip stick. Can install optional drain in plugged hole on bottom.


I really want to pull the trigger on one of these this weekend. My Brother wants me to get 2 so he can give one to his son who had is 2013 Sonata 2.0t engine replaced (see http://www.hyundai-forums.com/sonata-yf-turbo/478049-2013-sonata-2-0t-limited-threw-rod.html ).


So now I need to make the call for both of us. You timely input would be appreciated. :wink:
 
#15 · (Edited)
As for the Saikou Michi OCCs, you only really have to drain them (PCV side) at every OCI (~4-5K miles) and you might only get 3 or 4 oz at that (mostly in the winter for some reason). To clean the PCV OCC, it is very easy. You disconnect the side hose that goes to the intake manifold and using a short piece of spare hose, pour in some SeaFoam cleaner (say enough about fill the OCC) while having the can's drain closed (normal operating position). Let it sit for 30 mins or so then just open the drain and let all the dissolved gunk run out into your catch pan. If you set up with the ball valve (1/4 turn) for the drain and the remote drain nipple and hose (options you can order the SM OCCs with), it is super easy and very little fuss or muss. Simply reconnect the intake hose to the side port and your done.

FWIW: I opted for a two Saikou Michi OCC (PCV and Intake) with the 1/4 turn ball valves w/brass nipples, automotive hoses and clamps (complete kit including nice bolt-on mounting brackets). A really, really nice set-up and I paid ~$225 total. If I were doing this again, I would do all the same except just purchase the PCV can with all the fixin's as before and save ~$100.
 
#14 ·
I just pulled the trigger on another Add W1 can. I need another one for my intake side to catch the vapors when it's cold in the morning.

Got it from here.

ADD W1 Black Baffled Universal Aluminum Oil Catch Tank Can Reservoir Tank Ver.1 | eBay

Today I did some general maintenance and had an issue with the o-ring from the can. I couldn't find one to fit it exactly so I ended up cutting a larger one and making sure it was snug in the top of the can. Everything is sealed without leaks but I'll be looking for a replacement that can stand up to the oil and heat.

If you pick the Add W1 make sure you get another 60mm id 2mm thick o-ring just in case.
 
#16 ·
You hav egot good advice here.To add,stay away from a 2 oz. can and get the bigger one. I have collected more than that on occasion and my car is normally aspirated.
 
#17 ·
Finally went for the Add W1 Version 1

Hi Gents,

First of all thanks for all the input and suggestions. You input narrowed the field relatively quickly. I probably could have danced around for weeks, but I wanted to make the call and get this installed soon, not only for my Sonata, but for my nephews as well. It was a tough call but I went for the Add W1 Version 1. I negotiated a deal for two units ($160 USD total with free shipping in the USA.)







I confirmed the internals looked like this:







Each PACKAGE INCLUDES:
1x Oil Catch Tank
2x 9mm fitting
2x 15mm fitting
1x 15mm hose
Necessary Bracket & Screws
Limited Lifetime Warranty



I thought this was the best value out there. Hopefully it'll work well. (I'm still amazed the automobile manufactures aren't compelled to do this as a recall.) Hopefully this will help me get another few years without another "Head" issue. :cool:
 
#19 ·
Is there a definitive connection diagram out there?

Gents,


The Add W1 Catch Cans arrived quickly (with no hose). I bought some 3/8 gas hose but I'm getting different instructions on the hose connections. The Kia Optima store looks like it's backwards (see photo), as most visuals I find have the upper hose connecting to the Inlet Port. Most typically use the original hose connected to the Outlet and use a new one for the inlet.


Is there a definitive connection diagram out there?


Thanks for the assist.:wink:


 
#23 ·
PCV hose(top hose) connects to the inlet of the can while the lower hose connects to the outlet of the can.
 
#24 ·
I installed the Add W1 Catch Can today

Hi Gents,

I installed the Add W1 Catch Can today, and put some stainless mesh inside the "filter" compartment. My location choice utilizes a hold down bolt for the coolant reservoir. I wanted not to leave a "belly" in the intake hose as not to trap any fluids in the hose. (I made it a gentle downhill slope.) I fabricated the bracket from a zinc plated steel "L" bracket I had about. I was going to paint it black but I think it fits in with the silver paint of the car and surrounding hoses.


Thanks to all who posted and helped out. :wink:
 

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#27 ·
Hi Gents,


It's been a month since I installed the Add W1 Catch Can, and I'm surprised how little it's picked up. It's only about 1/4 up the first notch on the Dipstick. I haven't been driving a lot, but some folks report a lot more volume than this. I started the car & pulled the dip stick to see if there was a vacuum and there certainly was. I was amazed how much it was pulling. So at least I know the hoses have tight connections.


How much volume do you get in a month?
 
#28 ·
It really depends on how you drive and how many miles it's been. I drive 100 miles a day for work and i get about 4.5oz combined every 1000k. Mind you this is in winter, I have a tune and I have a lead foot.

I should probably empty my catch cans tonight, I'll take pics and post them up later.
 
#30 ·
The oil change folks emptied your OCC for you?
 
#31 ·
Yeah it's strange isn't it? When I got back to NC from MI i was about 600 miles or so over oci (61,177). After the oil change I only drove the car a few times to work and then dropped my car off at the dealer for some cosmetic stuff to be fixed and billed before the 60k mile mark (it rolled over 60k on my trip).

So it was either the dealership (very unlikely) that emptied them or the oil change place. I'm curious now because it just doesn't add up. I thought I had 1380 miles worth of oil in the cans but there was very little in both. The car had 61660 when I checked the cans last night but there should have been more for 400 miles. Maybe the dealer drained it seeing how much it collected? Who knows.....

Either way the drain on the intake side is bent now and the bracket for the pcv side was bent upwards (that's probably how they thought to drain it).

I contacted Mr. Saikou and bought new ball valve drains for the cans, figure it's a good time to upgrade the drains.

I will eventually redesign the brackets but probably not till after winter.
 
#32 ·
You might check with Mr. Saikou about replacement brackets if you need them. I found the ones he provided in his kit to be excellent (especially the PCV one). I also had him add the 1/4 turn ball valves and nipples such that I could put hoses on them and bring them down slightly below the belly pan for a clean "remote drain" implementation. Works really well and pretty cheap mod. Got the idea from a OptimaForum's member post couple years back.
 
#36 ·
switched the hose and id make sense. It still fills up up very fast, as least once a week. I just installed the catch can this summer, so 1st winter. I'm hoping the $hit doesn't freeze and cause trouble. The LAP 3 UC does seem to give a pretty good boost...most of the time. But that's another thread.


ominousone
 
#37 ·
FYI: I've run this OCC on the PCV side in the original OEM closed loop configuration and I highly recommend them.

 
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