Wanted to make this for those about to tackle the job and for those that may be hesitant to do it. It's not a bad install, it does take about an hour if you don't run into any speed bumps, but a lift would help
. If we all had lifts then this probably wouldn't be needed, but this is how to do it in your driveway with rhino ramps...
First get the car on the ramps. Best to sit them up against the lip going into your garage... make sure you lined up nicely on the ramps, put e-brake on and put some wood behind the rear tires before getting under the car.
Here's where you'll be working...
3/4 socket and ratchet
7/8 flat wrench (for the o2 sensor)
flat-head screwdriver (to get the exhaust hangers off)
and some PB Blaster (just in case, you can always take it back if not needed... it eats away at corrosion and makes it easier to get the o2 sensor off)
And you'll hate me for this, but you need some new hardware for the rear connection (I threw the bags away from the nuts and bolts I bought and forgot what pitch the stock hardware is). It's ok though, you can use some nuts and bolts that you may have sitting around (test fit them first so you don't end up in a predicament) or you may want to take off one of nuts from the studs in the back and take it to your local auto parts store before getting started....
Unplug your battery and get under the car with your tools easily accessible. This car is pretty low and long, so it's a lot of fun with just ramps
Here's where to start... This is the MP/DP connection, and a shot of where the o2 sensor unplugs from (the easy side). You'll see an orange connector hiding to the right of the flanges, that's the electrical side of the o2 sensor. These two nuts are 3/4", take them off and unplug the o2 sensor. Also, there are some metal clips holding the sensor's wire to the car, may as well pry them back and get that ready to go as well.
While your there, grab the 7/8 wrench and start trying to break the sensor loose, If it's not budging, soak the threads in PB Blaster and let it sit while you work on the other areas...
Onto the rear. Much easier to get to if you crawl in from the sides of the car. Same deal, 3/4" nuts that you'll wanna take off. There's also a crossmember that you'll notice here. That will get in your way when taking it out, but also makes it easier when putting the new pipe in... Your call on whether or not you take it off.
After the pipe is loose, move on to the hangers. I don't have a pic of them, but I just grabbed my screwdriver and gave it all I got. They can be a pain if you don't get a good angle on them and your car is sitting 12" off the ground, but it's worth it... Don't forget to go back to the o2 sensor if it's been soaking. If you still cant get it, finger tighten the nuts back on the pipe and drive around your block to warm it up. PB Blaster on hot connections will make it as easy as it will get...
There's no magic trick to getting the pipe out, just rock it back and forth and fight with it a bit; luckily the DP is a flex pipe so you got some wiggle room. And finally it's out:
and the new pipe:
Please do yourself a favor and get anti-seize so you don't have wrestle with the sensor or the nuts any longer.
Reverse engineer the new pipe on, using your new nuts and bolts for the rear connection and coating all threads in anti-seize. I reused the stock exhaust gaskets and don't have any leaks. Make sure to plug in the o2 sensor. You can see that FabWorx has a pretty viable solution for the o2 sensor so you don't throw a CEL (I haven't). It repositions it a little bit, and pulls it away from the exhaust stream a little.
Impressions: There was a very slight increase in exhaust noise. There's a more bass like tone coming from the floor boards, but nothing real noticeable. If someone came over and swapped out your pipe without you looking, you wouldn't even notice... Until you feel the added power. No droning at cruising speeds and again, it's just ever so slightly more aggressive sounding than stock. If noise is your thing, you may wanna look into axle back options... If your worried about noise, don't worry... it's good. FabWorx has been a pleasure to deal with, Toni gives great customer service and listens to feedback. He's quick to ship things out as well (these are made to order). All in all, I would've just gotten this pipe and skipped the whole intake thing, as this actually made a noticeable difference in power. But I love the sounds that turbo's make, so the intake stays (BTW, got the intake from FabWorx as well). Now on to the intercooler
*Let me know if I missed something.