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Car might be totaled...

25K views 65 replies 20 participants last post by  DarrenBach 
#1 ·
I parked on the street when I went out to dinner tonight. Came out to flashing lights. Thought I was getting a parking ticket. As I got closer I found that parts of my car were scattered down the street. Someone drove into the back of it. Never even hit the brakes. His car was about 100' up the road. Pushed mine about 20'. I have a feeling the frame is bent too. Won't be surprised if it's totaled. Sucks... I was on my best MPG average for this tank too. At least it wasn't a full tank.



 
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#5 ·
I've dealt with a couple of totaled cars in the past. This one might be a little different. I have a feeling that I'm going to have to fight to get what it's worth. The reason I bought it was because it was a low mileage (6900), fully loaded car. Pretty much a lot of car for the money. I would have spent a lot more to buy a newer model with about 7k less miles. Don't know if any of that is going to matter.

I just looked over the car with a flashlight. The back end of the car is swayed to the right. Quarter panel on the right is bent and the paint is cracked. The trunk lid is closer to that side, back tire on the right has a slight angle and the front wheel on that side is damaged from hitting the curb. Sucks... I really enjoyed this car.
 
#6 ·
Believe it or not, they might just try to repair it!

I have a friend who works in a "Collision Center", and you would not believe what they are repairing!

What town were you in when it happened? Just curious.
 
#8 ·
Just glad you weren't in it when it happened.

That really does suck. Did the guy at least have up to date insurance? I was in 2 accidents within two months of each other. One in my 2006 Sonata and one much smaller one in my HSH (567 dollars total). Neither person had insurance... so I had 1k in deductible payments. My insurance company had 2 cars in the first (was a 4 car accident) and they are still trying to get their money 2 years later from the guy who caused it.

I do see a write off. The damage is bad and with it being the rear end I'd demand a new battery pack.

Let us know how it goes.
 
#9 ·
I've seen cars totaled for what looked to be little damage and I've seen some repaired when I I thought it wasn't able to be brought back. A buddy's RAV4 was recently hit on the driver's side front tire area. About $12k in damage and they repaired it. He got the car back a few days ago and it's not the same. Took it on the highway found it vibrating. I really like the car but don't want to go through that. The other driver has insurance and was sited. I believe it was failure to stay within marked lanes.

Looking at KBB, they show a range of $18,800- $20,600. for this car purchased thought a dealer. I see my car payment going up if I want to replace this with the same thing if it's totaled. Looking at pre-owned, I haven't found any with like this with low mileage. Most have at least 40-50k on the odometer. And I like the color too so I'd want a Venetian Red Limited with Premium Package. A new one is almost double the price that I paid for this one. It was the special one, that's why I bought it. I wasn't looking for a car at the time.

Steampunk - I took a ride to Fall River for dinner.
 
#10 ·
So... if this was your car, would you want it to be repaired if they say that it can be or totaled? Most people have said that it's totaled so I've been doing a few hours of car research in case I need to replace it.
 
#11 ·
I guess it would depend on the frame. If it's bent then yes, I'd want it totaled. The rest could be sheet metal damage and some suspension replacements. If they do want to repair just make sure to use NEW Hyundai parts and get a new battery pack.

The damage on my 2006 was 3500 (basically new front sheet metal all around and radiator and parts associated with that area. I got 8k for it when I traded it in :)
 
#12 ·
I spoke with an adjuster a few minutes ago. Asked what would happen if they decide to fix it and then it's not right in the end. He said they guarantee that it will be right if I use one of the shops that they suggest. If not, and that shop can't make it right, they will pay another shop to do it.

Also asked what happens to the aftermarket parts on the car if it's totaled. He said that I can inform the adjuster in that department if that ends up being the case. Isn't much, just the light upgrades, tint and hitch. But still, I'd want that money back. I'll have to do it all again on the next car.
 
#13 ·
sorry about your car. from the way it looks, it's most likely a total loss (i used to be an auto claim adjuster). With pretty severe damage, it's better to let them total it bc it wont drive the same (even tho they always tell u they will fix it like its brand new). You can list all your aftermarket upgrades and send it to the adjuster (it will add some value to it, but not by much). good luck on your claims process.
 
#14 ·
Im not sure if I can justify them replacing the battery pack if nothing made contact with it. I'd want new Hyundai parts and not something aftermarket or off of a salvage. The car was moved about 20' when it was hit. Got pushed into the curb too. So I have concerns on if the front suspension was damaged along with the drivetrain.

The structure under the rear bumper is pushed in, driver's side quarter has issues as does and the truck was pushed into the passenger's side quarter hard enough to leave a crease. Don't know if that side is actually moved or not.







I got a rental today, Nissan Maxima. Reminds me that I'm better off driving a hybrid. I'm not going to see good MPGs in that car and it will mostly be my fault.
 
#15 ·
The reason I say you should get a new battery pack is easy. Your car was hit in the rear end and moved 20'. You can't tell me that the entire trunk and battery pack area wasn't stressed in this crash.
 
#21 ·
Obviously you know nothing about insurance adjustment practices, or you wouldn't be making such a riduculous statement. IF this vehicle were to be repaired, the only way they wouldd replace the battery pack is if it sustained physical damage, in which case the $4K cost would take the estimate into total loss territory anyway.

To OP, please don't listen to the "if you use our shop it will be perfect BS". It's not really up to you, but push for a total loss and let the adjustor know that's the only proper way to proceed. Asking what will hypothetically happen IF they repair it is asking for trouble because it lets the insurance company know you're open to the prospect. In fact, I would be letting them know if they try to repair, you will 100% go after them for Diminished Value (DV). Repair, 45-60 days of rental, and DV would cost the insurance more than a total loss offer and 7 days of rental, but some are stupid enough to go down the road of repairing the thing.

Good luck, either way.
 
#18 ·
It usually goes by the base price of the car, the amount ($) of damage done, and the miles on the car.

This one is borderline. Could go either way, and probably would with a nudge from the owner. I wish I could see it up close and personal.

Biggest concern I (would) have is the suspension mounting point. How badly damaged is it? If you get a REAL good guy that can pull it out right then the suspension will mount right and not be an issue. If not then alignment might suffer of the thing might dogtrack down the road, and or give you handling problems. Also realize this section will be WEAK and will be the first to go if it's hit again. So look at how much intrusion there was into the passenger's compartment.
 
#19 ·
I just went out to take a peak to see how bad the mounting points are but it's kind of dark and everything is to tweaked to see tonight. One thing that I noticed is the wheel on that side is split down the middle. Didn't see that before.

I've been giving this some thought today. Financially I'd like for it to be repaired and perfect. Can that happen? Maybe. It will still always be on my mind that it had substantial damage and the car will be marked as being in an accident. Buddy recently traded a car and lost $600. because of that. If it can't be fixed, I keep finding myself looking at new models so that's going to cost me more. There are a few incentives to save $2-$3k if I can find a '14 that I like (would want the same color and options). So that and any discount from the dealer might get it into the $27k range. But still...someone running into it could cost me thousands. I really don't want to start off with a car that has 50k on it. Not that there is anything wrong with doing that. It's just a lot higher than where I started with this.

As for the old WAAF commercial, not sure. Didn't listen to that then. I do remember WALE am radio in the early '80s :)
 
#20 ·
If it is repaired by the insurance company then the only way it will be marked is if they total it. If it gets reported to CarFax it will show up as having an accident, but I've had two cars that were repaired by insurance companies and no CarFax.

If it gets totaled and then resold it will have a Salvage title, and if someone rebuilds it it will be Reconstructed. Here's a kicker..the new title will say Salvage or Reconstructed, but CarFax won't know that until it gets sold and reregistered.

So, any of you buying a car in Mass...look at the title. But then, by law, a reseller has to tell you it's reconstructed. I used to hand people the key, say "Go for a ride" and then when they came back...Oh, by the way, take a look over here...sold a lot of cars that way!
 
#23 ·
You'd be better off for them to total the car. CarFax will show this as a Major accident and that will cost thousands off it when you sell/trade in.

Just my opinion, but I'd rather them total it and get a new car. That car will never be the same especially when frame/chassis damage is done.
 
#24 ·
This is what I was going to post before reading today's replies -

I searched a lot of the local dealer inventories last night and also checked to see what incentives Hyundai has for a new car. Their current incentives end on Sept 2nd so they won't apply if this is totaled and I decide to go with a new car (would save $3k off of whatever price we came up with). There will probably be something else though. Hyundai will probably want to help dealers move '14s off the lots. I've seen new Hybrids listed for $26-$27k without factory incentives. That's about $5k off of sticker. The last new vehicle that I bought was in 2007 and I bought a number of them before that. I'd order the vehicle and it would come in a couple of months later. We'd do $300. - $500. off of invoice and that ended up being fair for everyone. I'd get a good discount and the dealer would still do pretty good. Don't know if dealers still do this or not. Sound fair?

As I mentioned before, I bought this car because it had very low mileage for the year and was very well optioned. It was almost like getting a new Hybrid for $19k. Great deal on a great car that I have been VERY happy with. If it's totaled, I'm going to have to out of pocket at least $8-9k to buy another one like it. This one was a needle in the haystack and I don't think I'll find another one with very low mileages, all the options and in red (the color really makes the car for me). So I'd end up sending $8-9k to pretty much buy the same car. It would just be a few years newer and have a few thousand less miles.

With that said, I'm kind of thinking that I hope they say it can be fixed. Maybe everything will be back to normal after that and I'll continue to have the car that I really enjoy without having to spend a bunch of money. And if they do repair it and for some reason, it does have issues. then I can just get out of it by trading it in or selling privately.

I totally understand what everyone is saying about wanting the car totaled. I big part of me wants that too. But if they do that, it's going to cost me close to $10k to park that night.

So what do you think?
 
#25 ·
Here's the way I look at it. I think if they total the car out, you'll get more money than if they fixed it and you trade/sell it later.

The thing you have to really look at is how much damage was done to the frame/chassis. Everything else is cosmetic and can be changed out, however structural damage will just get worse over time. The worse part, which is why I hope you get the car totaled and not fixed, is any patch job they do structurally, you'll never see. You'll never know if that work is solid work, or a cruddy patch job.
 
#27 ·
That is something that I thought of. How much would they give me if it's totaled vs how much if I trade it in. I checked KBB and came up with a price range between $19,700. and $20,600. This was by using retail from a dealer for a certified pre-owned. They estimated mileage to be at 44k. Looking at the NADA site, they show $20,825 with 18k miles. So after I pay off my loan I'd be up about $3k if these numbers are correct.

It wouldn't be to bad if I can find a '14 like mine for about $26k. I'd be financing $23k unless I put a few thousand down. Still an expensive parking spot.
 
#26 ·
FYI, I bought my brand new (red) 2014 HSH Limited 7 weeks ago (basically, this has all the available options including the pano sunroof) for $25,438 with all dealer incentives applied (MSRP is $33,044). That's $7600 off of MSRP. Deals are possible. If the car is totaled, it looks like the current value is in the neighborhood of $13,500 so that plus ~$12,000 would get you into a brand new 2014 Limited with sunroof. I love mine and I'm sure you would too. Hoping for the best for your situation.
 
#28 ·
Doing more research I found this -

Auto insurance companies must do a visual evaluation of the damage to your vehicle to begin estimating the cost of repairs. It helps to be there with them when they survey the damage, so that you can point out anything they may overlook. Make sure that they see all damage in order to ensure a proper settlement.

Keep in mind, however, that the more damage they see, the more likely it is that your car will be declared a "total loss." Here's where it gets hairy, since, depending on how much you love or hate your car, the concept of total loss can be a bad or good thing. First, a definition of the term "total loss."

According to the Insurance Consumer Advocacy Network (I-CAN), a self-help Web site for consumers run by a former insurance adjustor, insurance companies define a "total loss" as:

"The cost of repair plus projected supplements plus projected diminished resale value plus rental reimbursement expense exceeds the cost of buying the damaged vehicle at its preaccident value, minus the proceeds of selling the damaged vehicle for salvage."

Huh? Simply stated, if compensating you for repairing the car, renting something in the meantime and paying you what your car has lost in value costs more than what they'd shell out to just buy you a replacement and then sell your wreck to a salvage yard, you're not going to get your car back, but a check instead.

If the estimate your insurer comes up with is questionable to you, check your policy for an "Appraisal Provision" that would allow you to get an independent appraisal of the damage, which would then be reviewed by an "umpire" jointly selected by your appraiser and that of your auto insurance company. If the two appraisers can't agree on an amount of your car's ACV and damage, the umpire steps in, basically to take one side or the other to help resolve the issue. While you have to pay for your appraiser, and share the umpire's fee, it may be worth the expense if you really feel that your auto insurance company is trying to give you short shrift.

However, given the sizable expense of fixing a damaged car, compensating you for lost resale value, rental car costs and so on, it's easy to understand why insurance companies often throw up their hands long before the repair bill exceeds the car's ACV. For example, some companies consider a wrecked vehicle a total loss when the total cost to repair it exceeds just 51 percent of the vehicle's ACV. Others don't give up until the repair bill hits the 80-percent mark.

I didn't know about the diminished value thing until I read about it here. This link provides info about it - DIMINISHED VALUE FAQS | Insurance Consumer Advocate Network

The adjuster will be coming out tomorrow so I'm finishing my research tonight. This is my first potential totaled vehicle in about 20 years. Maybe what I go through will help someone in the future.
 
#29 ·
Sorry to see your car!
If your insurance is anything like mine you may be okay.
I had my 2013 Accent total the end of December, like you I had gotten a good deal on a slightly used car, mine had 9600 kilometers on it, so when the body shop called me to warn me that he thought that the insurance was going write off my car I wasn't too happy!
The car had just over 10 grand worth of damage and was repairable, didn't look like a lot of structural damage but I am no body guy.
So when the adjuster called me to give me the offer I was extremely surprised that she gave me the total cost of a new 2014 Accent (minus the taxes) or just under 20 grand I was amazed. I had paid 16 plus taxes.
Seems that because it was a 2013 and was totaled in the model year she was able to give me full replacement pricing.
Good luck and I hope that you come out okay with whatever deal they offer you!
Cheers
 
#30 ·
When we bought our HSH in 2011 we took the offer to buy a little extra protection and if the car was totaled in the first 3 years they would replace it with a current year car.
 
#54 ·
Yea, in Canada, that appears to be standard policy. At least with Royal Bank and Desjardin insurance. I had to take advantage of it back in 2010 for a Jeep somebody T boned me in.
Except you were not bound by purchasing the same vehicle, just got the monetary replacement value of the vehicles current year. I even had an extended warranty and they kicked in that as well.
 
#33 ·
The appraisal guy just came to look it over. He said it took a hard hit but he doesn't think it hit the rear frame. The list of parts that will need to be replaced is extensive. He won't know if it will be totaled until he goes over everything that obviously needs to be replaced/fixed along with the labor to do it. I should have an answer on Tuesday.

I asked about diminished value if the car is repaired. He said that is handled by a different department of the ins co. So I'll be requesting that if they repair it.

I've heard of some ins companies replacing a vehicle with the newest model year. Don't know if mine does but I'm going to look into that incase something happens in the future.
 
#34 ·
Was the adjuster from your company or the guy who hit you?

I think Liberty Mutual is one of the "a model year newer" places.

Please ask about the battery pack. I'd hate for it to fail and have Hyundai say it's from the accident and leave your holding a 5k bill.
 
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