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LED turn signal Load resistor question

11K views 25 replies 5 participants last post by  Tiger-Heli 
#1 ·
Ok, So for the last year or so, I've had LED turns I put in myself. The rear wires/bulbs were super easy to do/get to. The front ones... took some time. I got the bulbs in, no issue. I got used to the hyper flash, but really want to get rid of it. So my question is, where do I put the load resistors for the front LED's? Being that it's basically a plug in bulb with no wires to the socket, I've been at a loss for a while.

Where is the wire harness for the headlights and which wires are for the turn signals?


Thanks!


Oh, and I'M BACK!
 
#3 ·
That's great and all, but the load resistors I have that came with the LED bulbs, are "clip on wire" type. They won't plug into the fuse, unless I cut the ends off. Where is this fusebox? I'm curious. Thanks!
 
#4 ·
The fusebox is located behind the dash on the driver's side. I don't know what a "clip on wire" type resistor is but regardless, all your doing is connecting the resistors to the wires leading to the front turn signal lamps only your connecting them at the fusebox inside the car where it's dry rather than outside in the engine bay where the connections will be exposed to dampness. Connecting at the fusebox also has the advantage that both the wires you need to connect to are right beside each other, plus you know exactly where they are on the fusebox connector and what colours they are.....Simples!

 

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#5 ·
The fusebox is located behind the dash on the driver's side. I don't know what a "clip on wire" type resistor is but regardless, all your doing is connecting the resistors to the wires leading to the front turn signal lamps only your connecting them at the fusebox inside the car where it's dry rather than outside in the engine bay where the connections will be exposed to dampness. Connecting at the fusebox also has the advantage that both the wires you need to connect to are right beside each other, plus you know exactly where they are on the fusebox connector and what colours they are.....Simples!



The "clip on wire" type are like these:

https://www.superbrightleds.com/mor...gleBaseChild&gclid=CMfL1dX20NECFdGFswodpHUBjA

The blue clamp has two slots, one for the resistor wire and one for the light wire. The resistor wire side has a stop on it to stop the wire from protruding out the end of it. The slot for the wire to light is straight through. You put both wires in, then "clamp" the metal plate through both, then snap the plastic cover closed to keep anything from shorting the wire out. Once you connect this to both wires, you put a "load" on the wires, making it seem like there's an incandescent bulb in there, when it's really just LED.

Can you blow up that last picture for me? Is there two sets of orange/red orange/blue for each light, or only one?
 
#11 ·
Another idea - not sure it works on Hyundai, but it should.

On most cars the front and rear turn signals are wired together in parallel.

So you really don't have to mess with the front turn signal wiring.

Either replace your present rear resistors with these: https://www.ledlight.com/led-light-load-equalizer-3-ohm.aspx, or connect the ones you have in parallel with the ones at the rear - electrically, it works out the same way.
 
#15 ·
I don't get it. Why are you switching to LED ?
It can't be to save power, as you are just changing the low LED power and adding heat by the resistor to match up amp draw so they blink as fast.

They change signal lights on motorcycles to LED as bikes have small alternators. But they just change the blinker to a electronic one that has a set blink rate no matter the power draw.
 
#16 ·
There are a number of reasons for adding LED's (most of them not related to turn signals):


  • LED's draw less power (but if you have to add load resistors to keep the current ouput the same, that is negated.
  • LED's have a whiter, higher color-temperature light than incadescents.
  • LED's can be brighter than incandescents, if they are drawing nearly the same power (or even at reduced power).
  • LED's cycle more quickly - i.e. they go from full-brightness to off in fractions of a second as opposed to 1/2-second or so - which should lead to better visibility.
  • Not sure on the Sonata, but on the Accent, you could use switchback LED's on the front which means the parking lights would blend in with the headlights when those were on.
 
#17 ·
To answer all the questions...

Autospark - I was using these resistors: 50 Watt 6 Ohm Load Resistor

Tiger-Heli - I tried the parallel once already, and it didn't work. Thanks for the idea though.

GreyOwl - I know how to wire them, I did the rear ones just fine. The problem with the 13 HSH is that the front lights are a "plug" type, that can be completely removed from the car, without wires on it. You twist, pull, and the entire light and socket comes out of the housing. There are no visible wires in that area to put the resistors on, unfortunately.

MButkus - Because I wanted brighter, cleaner, lighting on my car? The tail lights (brake and side markers) were already LED, I changed the license plate bulbs to LED, the turns to LED, the trunk light to LED, the glove box to LED, and the dome/map lights to LED. Why? I have always done it to my cars (since 2009, when I owned my first car). They flash brighter, are faster response time (instant, compared to the "delay" of incandescent, and yes, fractions of a second matter sometimes in situations where someone needs to be alerted faster), and they look better on the car. Also, my Scion had a "flash controller" that I could buy and switch out (the thing that clicks behind the dashboard) instead of load resistors in that car. I couldn't find one for the Sonata, otherwise, I would've just went that route. I also have blue and red LED strips inside the foot wells and under the front seats to illuminate the interior. Why? Because I like it. Are you going to tell me that that's wrong, too?

Tiger-Heli - The sonata doesn't have switchback, unfortunately.
 
#18 ·
GreyOwl - I know how to wire them, I did the rear ones just fine. The problem with the 13 HSH is that the front lights are a "plug" type, that can be completely removed from the car, without wires on it. You twist, pull, and the entire light and socket comes out of the housing. There are no visible wires in that area to put the resistors on, unfortunately.
This might help then - http://www.hyundai-forums.com/2016-...681-us-ultimate-full-led-conversion-done.html

Or Shark Racing sells 1157's with built-in load resistors.

It doesn't HAVE switchbacks, but if it uses an 1157 (and has a clear lens), it COULD have them. :)
 
#23 · (Edited)
Those don't look bright at all, in fact, they say "23,000 mcd" (millicandela). It doesn't say the "angle of apex". Therefore, it cannot be calculated. I found a webpage (http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/light/mcd-to-lumen-calculator.htm), and even with a 500 degree angle (which is impossible), it's only 193 Lumens. That's not bright at all. A 90 degree angle gives you 42 lumens. that's barely visible. Those are not CREE LED's like I have now.

These (https://www.diodedynamics.com/store/led-bulbs/listed-by-size/1156/1157-xp80-pair) are the ones I have now. They are BRIGHT!!! (510 lumens) Trust me, they are worth the price. No failed LED's yet, and I've been running them for 2 years almost. (This post was for me trying to get info on the front turns for hyper flash.)

Let me show you a youtube video I have comparing the older bulbs I had (that look like the ones in your link) and my CREE LED ones. Go here:


Yeah, I know on the price, but as far as I know they are the only built-in load resistor solution.
Built in Load resistors will make the bulb/resistor fail faster. As the resistor heats up upon usage, thus causing more heat in the bulb/housing itself, and causing a premature fail. I do not suggest using built in resistor type.
 
#24 ·
Mcd and lumens for LED's do not mean much - there are too many other factors such as positioning of the LED relative to the reflectors, etc.

Yes, I agree the SR uses mainly 5050 LED's - more than the ones in your video, but not the best solution for light output.

Yes, the built-in resistor is not good for bulb life and would be best to be avoided, but for people that don't want to cut splice the OEM wiring and perhaps have a bulb that goes into a holder powered by the housing PCB, the daisy-chain Load resistors are not an option, so the choices are the SR bulbs, possibly trying to add load resistors at the fuse panel, or modifying a standard bulb to add load resistors at the housing - which has the similar drawbacks to the SR bulbs.
 
#26 ·
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