Actuator Assy Idle Speed - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#1 Old 01-29-2009, 02:19 PM
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SmoothGirlieGirl
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Angry

Hi again. Well, just as I acknowledge on the other thread, I took my SUV to the dealer. They did some changes and also inspected it for the 60,000 mileage tune up.

The "engine" sign was on the SUV since last saturday 24th, it's been like that for 5 days now, and they diagnosed it as: Actuator Assy Idle Speed, or some issue with the valve that deals with the slow speed.

I expressed my worry that the car might break or something and they said, you can ride your SUV cause it's not that much of a problem yet. And they gave me a quotation of the part, in order for them to buy it, since they don't have any in stock.

My question to you guys are the following:

Do I need to worry?
What's the worst that could happen?
Should I continue driving the SUV?
What does this part look like?
Where does it go and what does it do?
Is there an online car shop you could recommend, for me to try and see if I coud get it quicker than what the dealers offered?

"It's That Girl Again"
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#2 Old 02-02-2009, 09:07 PM
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Dear Smoothie,

Argh, your dealer has taken advantage of your good personality and trusting nature!

Please get the exact code from the dealer service technician. It should be on your work order file. If the dealer erased the code, and it did not come back, it may be a transient reading that has not repeated.

If the code is still there (and we don't know if you had one code or several) you can get it read for free at many auto parts stores such as Pep Boys, Autozone, Checker, etc.

Once we have the codes, we can tell you how bad it is. For instance, for severe faults your car will register a "Limp Home Mode" that signals that your engine computer is using factory default values so you can get the car to a shop. It normally is BAD to operate in Limp Home mode for more than short distances.

For the Actuator Assembly Idle speed, I need to code to tell if this is part of your throttle body position sensor.

Register for hmaservice.com. You can get the shop manuals for free, you just supply two reams of paper and a hole puncher.

Byron

Where's my bailout?
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#3 Old 02-03-2009, 11:35 AM
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SmoothGirlieGirl
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Man, I ought to B upset with the dealer for this. I haven't been able to drive in a relax mode ever since this issue came about.

Now, before I answer your question -I'm afraid I'll seem dumb by asking this but ...- can you tell me which code do you mean? Do you want me to give you the code from the problem with the engine or the code for the part they said I need to purchase??

I'm asking you this because the only code I received from them was the 35150-010 something that identifies the part. I only received mouthered explanations as to what the problem was, they didn't give me anything on paper that specified which problem I have.

As a matter of fact, I remember having asked them to PLEASE plug their sensors to my SUV computer to see if by resetting the Puter the "check engine" alert would go away. They claimed they did it... but I wasn't there to confirm or deny.

I hope U understand my possition here. I have to trust them.

They also said they dropped all the ATF fluid and replaced it with brand new Mobil ATF fluid (and charged me for 6 bottles) and I have to believe that too

"It's That Girl Again"
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#4 Old 02-03-2009, 03:47 PM
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Dear smoothie,

You are wanting the Diagnostic Trouble Code(s) that were detected and read by their fancy code reader machine. This connects to the OBD-II (Onboard Diagnostics-protocol II). It will look include P and four numbers (i.e. P0446). You definitely want to have them show you that the OBD-II code detected requires replacement of this part to fix your Santa Fe. Also, if you have a 2006 and the original owner, you are likely under the 60,000 mile limit and definitely under the 5 year limit to have this part covered under warranty. If they are covering under warranty, sure have them replace it.

As far as the Mobil ATF fluid, please have them show you on a Mobil Product Data Sheet that this fluid meets or exceeds Hyundai SP-III standards or Mitsubishi Diamond standards. If they cannot prove that the fluid meets or exceeds, they are voiding your warranty and will affect the life of your transmission.

Just to educate you, get your Owner's Manual from the glove box and look at Chapter 6 and the Maintenance Schedule. In Chapter 6 is the Recommended Fluids chart that explains the Hyundai specification required.

Your OBD-II port is (from memory) on the left driver side under the dashboard.

In the words of Ronald Reagan, "Trust but verify". The reluctance of the dealership to put anything in writing should make you suspicious.

Byron

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#5 Old 02-04-2009, 12:18 AM
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bmninada
S-girl - I would side with Byron here. 1st. I have few suggestions. I think you're being taken advantage of. Do you have someone you can count on and you can take him/her with you to the dealership? From your questions, I understand you're totally unaware of the vehicle parts/workings. That's fine and the very fact you're asking here means at least you're trying. Trust me - there are 90% more who don't know a **** thing and are regularly taken for a "ride" but blissfully they are unaware of it! Now, coming back to your problem. You had some light on, went to the dealer. They are supposed to, FIRST and FOREMOST analyze the source of the engine light. To do that they should plug in the OBD scanner. To do that look underneath your steering wheel. You'll find a portion of dashboard where OBD is written, you can yank that open and you'll see host of blue colored "plugs". Somewhere there the OBD scanner is inserted, plugged on and the scanner records a number which is the source of your engine light. The dealer, if asked is supposed to tell you that number. That's the number Byron wants. You should look at your invoice given by dealer and that should have the number written down. If not - go to the dealer and ask him for it. If he refuses and if it's a Hyundai dealership - stop going to that dealership and go elsewhere. Next - as dealer, they are NOT supposed to interchange the ATF fluid for anything BUT Hyundai. If fact, they are NOT supposed to recommend or store anything else! I find something very, very fishy here - you might have been charged for ATF flush/exchange but really they might not have done it, then this cost they are offsetting in repairing something which ideally is covered under your warranty. Take the invoice, see if it EXPLICITLY states using a non-Hyundai ATF fluid and call Hyundai USA. Tell them the dealer code, location, invoice information and what was placed as ATF fluid and what dealer told you. I can bet my dollars Hyundai USA will tell you - NO, it's NOT correct ATF fluid! Ask Hyundai USA to speak to the dealership. Tell dealership you've informed Hyundai USA about all this, see what happens.... I am suspecting at your next car problem, the same dealership might wash their hands off your vehicle and blame it on non-compliance of ATF fluid.
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#6 Old 02-04-2009, 06:05 PM
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SmoothGirlieGirl
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Thanks guys, for all the trouble in explaining things 2me. I feel like a fool 4 not noticing this B4!!!!!!!!

I'll talk to them and then, get back to U.

"It's That Girl Again"
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#7 Old 02-04-2009, 08:44 PM
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Smoothie,

PSST> Print this whole thread and take it with you into the dealer. Bring a friend and I hate to say it but women get treated poorly in dealerships as a general rule for buying and service. Use this thread as a check list to get your questions answered.

Byron

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#8 Old 02-12-2009, 10:55 AM
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SmoothGirlieGirl
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Hi guys! Well, I await the call from the "Hyundai advisor" who received my SUV and gave me the final invoice. As soon as he gets back to me I will ask him all this questions you mentioned. Byron, thanks for your suggestion to print this thread... I already did and it has proven very useful to me.

I agree with Bmininada, mecanics and advisors and men in general tend to think women aren't as acute as they in understanding mechanical problems or cars. I suppose it's because we don't daydream or yapp all day about our car, what wheels or brakes we put them, or because we don't share their passion in spending enormous ammount of money on a car. We are more realistic and spend in other things like clothes, jewelry and accesories to feel better ourselves, not the car we drive. That's pragmatism 2 me.

You know, I think that's biased thinking as women have a higher level of perception and imagination and I think that's what's needed to understand wiring, holes, tubes and screws.

I mean, I have another non-Hyunday mechanic to whom I go to and annoy him with my questioning... and once he explaines things to me I understand, or do so a little bit. My dad and stepfather have also helped me demonstrating how a vehicle works on the inside parts. So, I don't really like to be discarded as someone unable to understand.

Aside from my personal views, and getting back 2 the topic here, I will also take your recommendation to go with someone I can trust and I will point out that last month they gave me 2 invoices, one where they said I had to "change the Transaxle part cause there was a leakage problem" -it was only a loose screw that my mechanic fixed- and the second one where they acknowledge "there is no leakage problem" in my SUV.

I don't know, perhaps it has something to do with the fact that I purchased this vehicle at some other place than the dealership, a fact that makes them mad I suppose. Maybe that, plus the fact I'm a girl, is why they're being so misterious and erratic about their diagnostics.

I'll get back to you, after my chat with "the advisor".

"It's That Girl Again"
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#9 Old 02-15-2009, 12:32 PM
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SmoothGirlieGirl
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Here's the final result from the dealership: "The codes that the scanner found are P1505 and P1507".

This was given to me on a tiny little piece of squared white paper and, verbally, I was brushed off with the following sentence: "I don't know any part dealer in the US who would require you, the buyer, to provide this information just to sell a part. I mean, I could have given you a fake code for all you know... not that I would do that, not that we would do that, but nobody asks this unless they have a manual. If you had gone to another place they could have given you another code".

I detected some sort of resentment in that subtle warning... but I got what I wanted. Now, please, if you can, let me know if these two codes do apply to the Actuator Assy Idle Speed the dealership "recommended" that I purchased. ?????

"It's That Girl Again"
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#10 Old 02-15-2009, 09:55 PM
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DSHornet
This may be a bit technical, but here is the explanation I found for your codes:
P1505 = Idle Charge Actuator signal low of coil #1
P1507 = Idle Charge Actuator signal low of coil #2

They both pertain to the "Idle Charge Actuator," or what is sometimes called the Idle Air Control (IAC). Here's what it means:
The IAC is a modulating valve, or a valve that can be positioned at any point in its operating range. In other words, it can be open or closed at any point, like when you open a water valve on your kitchen sink to change (modulate) the flow to the rate you want. (This is as opposed to a two-position valve, which is completely closed or open with nothing in between.) The engine control computer controls the valve position to allow as much air past the throttle valve as is needed to control idle speed.

There are two electrical coils in the valve, the opening coil and the closing coil. The computer constantly sends a controlling signal to one or the other to position the valve. The IAC has a connector with three pins in it: The #2 center pin supplies +12 volts from the battery, when the ignition switch is on, to a common connection of BOTH coils. The #1 and #3 pins are the other sides of EITHER coil and are switched by the computer to ground as needed to position the valve. If a volt meter's probes are put between pin #2 of the connector from the car's wiring harness and any ground, it should show +12 volts being supplied with the key on. That tells you that there is power being supplied. If a meter is probed between #2 and either #1 or #3 of the connector on the IAC valve, it should show the resistance of the coils in the valve, which should be around 15 ohms to 18 ohms. This will show if the coils in the valve are good or bad. If you know anyone who can use a multimeter, he (or she!) should be able to determine all this.

I know this is a bit technical, but my background is in control systems with several decades' worth of shadetree mechanic work. Not to mention twenty four years in aircraft avionics systems in the US Air Force and Air National Guard. Consequently I am apt to lapse into Geek Speak at times.

Check back if I can confuse, uhhh help, you any more.

Paw-paw Don, y'all
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