2001 Sante Fe Alternator Replacement - Hyundai Forums : Hyundai Forum
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#1 Old 06-08-2008, 02:40 PM
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rwebber147
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I'm attempting to replace the alternator on the 2001 Sante Fe and am having trouble removing the Pivot Bolt. I removed the nut from the front of the bolt and attempted to slide the bolt rearward toward the front of the engine. It seems to run into the front of the engine before it's completely free of the alternator housing.

Is there a step that I'm missing in the process to remove the alternator?
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#2 Old 06-11-2008, 10:24 AM
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am1ll3r
Did you get it yet ?
I just replaced the alternator on my 2001 Santa Fe and I thought the same thing ...
Once you take the top bolt off then loosen the bottom just pry the alternator away from the bracket. The bracket that is holding the alternator is "C" shaped so it can just be popped out once the bottom through bolt is loosened.
Hope this helps... now on to front struts and ball joints
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#3 Old 06-11-2008, 11:36 AM
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rwebber147
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Got it!

thanks for the follow up.
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#4 Old 09-12-2009, 06:31 PM
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VarmintSlayer
Helped me as well so, Thankyou!

Took an hour of wiggling to pop it off that c shaped bracket.

My arms feel like jello.

2002 Santa Fe 4wd
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#5 Old 06-03-2010, 09:34 PM
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dno36
This thread helped me as well!!

Take off the tire and shield.
14mm nut on the bottom, 12 mm on top.

Wiggle back and forth many times!!
I found it easier getting 1 hand up next to the exhaust pipe and the other from the outside. Having both hands on it gave much better leverage and it came out in about 5 minutes. The 12mm nut for the primary wire was only removable after I had the old alternator loose, and I could turn it 90 degrees and use the firewall for a stop and get to the nut.

The biggest pain I had was......getting the darn top bolt to line back up properly (reakin freakin darn snitcher!!) The bottom bolt needs to be 'just-right' before the threads will catch for the top bolt. You cannot visually align the holes & you do not want to mess the threads up on that 12mm nutted bolt!

Saved over $300, took 3 hours of my life.........happy camper am I...

Great Forum I say!!!

Thanks

Dean
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#6 Old 06-03-2010, 10:50 PM
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QUOTE (dno36 @ Jun 3 2010, 09:34 PM)
Quote:
This thread helped me as well!!

Take off the tire and shield.
14mm nut on the bottom, 12 mm on top.
Remove the (3) 12mm bolts at top along with the bracket


The biggest pain I had was......getting the darn top bolt to line back up properly (reakin freakin darn snitcher!!) The bottom bolt needs to be 'just-right' before the threads will catch for the top bolt. You cannot visually align the holes & you do not want to mess the threads up on that 12mm nutted bolt!
That is why you removed the iron bracket, with the alternator sitting in the "U" slot, loosely start the bolt for alt to bracket, then position the bracket to start the last 2 bolts into motor... then tighten all your bolts..

Saved over $300, took 3 hours of my life.........happy camper am I...
$300 ??? We only charge $90 for labor, add part and taxes...
Great Forum I say!!!

Thanks

Dean

I cheated, only took maybe 15 minutes after I had the frame out, this one is 2WD..
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#7 Old 10-18-2011, 10:04 AM
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viktor01 is on a distinguished road
ok so I have the alternator loose bolts out but how in the **** do you get the darn thing out???????? do I need to remove the exaust the cv joint or what??? please help 01 santa fe 2wd.
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#8 Old 08-26-2012, 04:54 PM
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AndyFe
Just got the alternator off my 2001 2.4l and the engine mount is solid not c-section. The trick is to use a pry bar and gently move the square head of the bolt past the support bracket whilst someone taps on the bolt end with a drift.

The alternator comes out fairly easily out the top. grind the corner (one corner!) off the square head for easier replacement.

I had a look to see what why is wasn't charging, took the back cap off and one of the brushes fell out in three pieces!

Why do they drill a hole in the brushes? They don't fail gracefully at all.

I'd like to just buy the voltage regulator as the unit is in good condition otherwise. Due to needing to be back on the road I'll probably be forced to buy a reconditioned alternator.

Thanks for the forum it's been good to me, if anyone needs any pictures of this process let me know, I took a load,

Andy
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#9 Old 08-26-2012, 07:55 PM
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The holes in the brushes are for putting through a wire to keep them inside while you assemble the rotating shaft back in the alternator. There is a little hole in the cap too.
The voltage regulator is an integral part of the unit, underneath the little heat sink. It is not seperately sold.
Good luck,
Paul
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#10 Old 08-30-2012, 02:52 PM
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AndyFe
Just to help out anyone else who has a similar problem of a broken alternator brush, they're easy to remove from the voltage regulator.
I just bought a pair of Bosch 1 127 014 022 for the huge sum of just less than 7euros (including tax) and they fit great. Once I get them soldered in and the regulator soldered back with the rectifier it's going back on the car.
Andy
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