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2004 santa fe front brakes

1K views 9 replies 5 participants last post by  MyDaughtersCar 
#1 ·
Calipers move slightly. Pins greased. Master cylinder or caliper pistons? Both front tires. Pads are fine...
 
#4 ·
Master cyclinders seldom wear out on newer cars IMO. Look for dark spots on metal tubing from possible leaks, you are in the rust belt.

You may have a bit of air in system which limits proper piston travel. It could even be back brakes contributing to problems.

Get a 2" long piece of plastic tubing. Hyundai brakes ar normally bleed in a diagonal pattern, pass rear to driver front being first cross.

I like to use the small piece of tubing so I can see any air bubbles coming out, fluid in hose also reduces air going back in.

But even just garavity bleeding with out second person might be good enough for now.
 
#6 ·
So the long story is, I bought new rotors and pads for both front tires 2004 Santa Fe only to find that the caliper pins were seized on both front tires. This vehicle had been sitting for months. I had changed the rear rotors and pads months before that but can't remember if I removed the reservoir cap prior to compressing the pistons. The rear brakes work fine but the calipers (dismantled & greased) only move slightly in the front. I didn't bother with the rotors or pads in the front as the pads on both tires were fine and the calipers seemed to be the problem. Thoughts?
 
#7 ·
DIismantled and greased means pistons were removed?

If so obviously they would need to be bled as well. Seized pins prevent piston from moving properly for pushing out air bubbles during bleeding process.

Proper bleeding procedure is to not force dirty fluid through your abs system and back into reservoir, but to crack bleeder and dump fluid from calipers. New calipers should be profilled with fluid before installation to help with bleeding.
 
#8 ·
No, I didn't take the pistons out. Just compressed them. I removed the caliper pins, cleaned, greased and put them back on...should I try bleeding all four brakes? Some people tell me the master cylinder works the front and back brakes separately? Is that true? Should I remove the pistons? Do they screw in and out? The calipers compress slightly on both front tires, (just not enough to grip the rotors), so it seems a little weird that both calipers would go at the same time.
 
#9 ·
No don't remove the pistons, you will get even more air. The pistons front and rear press in fairly easily if not seized, c lamp and one old pad Works pretty well. Calipers can last for 200k miles sometimes.

Car sitting shouldn't just get air, neither should seized caliper pins .

Was master cyclinder low from just sitting without being used?
If it was then either flex hose or one of the metal lines might have a pin hole.

The Pistons when braking only travel very little, it's the strong clamp force gripping rotor that stops car.

Front and rear linked via proportioning valve, more braking is done by front wheels.

Diagonal bleeding of all four wheels with a helper and a piece of clear hose stuck on bleeder screw for air visibility , might show what's happening. Gives bleeder screws a hard tap straight on top with hammer, helps free up rusted threads a little.
 
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