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2001 santa fe fuel pump relay problem

16K views 30 replies 4 participants last post by  hickman 
#1 · (Edited)
hi , we bought a 2001 santa fe 2.4 and manual trans and realized the spot the where the fuel pump relay under the hood is supposed to be plugged in has a jumper wire and no relay so i plugged a new relay in and the fuel pump will not work unless I put the jumper wire back in. i have no idea what the problem could be. does anyone know what the problem could be?
 
#2 ·
The problem could be that the ...
1. Fuse to the load side of the fuel pump relay is blown
2. The fuse to the control side of the fuel pump relay is blown
3. There is a problem in the load side wiring prior to the relay
4. There is a problem in the control side of the relay
5. The fuse box has a problem

Usually bypassing the circuit means that the person didn't want to go through the effort to have it fixed right
Either because of time limit constraints or money constraints

Either way, it is just another headache someone got rid of and you picked up

Good luck to you
 
#3 ·
avisitor lists a few possibilities but assuming the jumper is linking two terminals of the relay socket, it's pretty easy to narrow down where the problem lies.

Remove the jumper from the fusebox and with the ignition on, measure the voltage on the 4 terminals of the relay socket on the fusebox. If you have 2 terminals showing 12V then the problem is a break on the relay control wire between the engine computer/PCM and the relay. If you only have 1 terminal with 12V the problem is either a blown/missing ECU B+ fuse (see below) or there is a break/high resistance on the circuit inside the fusebox that links the aforementioned fuse and the relay.

Regards.
Scott.

 

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#5 ·
i checked the relay socket and it looks like im getting power from 2 of the terminals, one is constant and the other comes on with the key. do you know where i can find a diagram so i can find out with wire i need to look at from the socket to the ecm?
 
#8 ·
According to the attached diagram, the wire colour is Gray with an orange stripe and it attaches to the PCM on connector C21-1, terminal 20. The PCM location photo shows C21-1 is the connector at the outside left of the PCM and the connector pinout shows where on the connector terminal 20 is.

Everything was there except the wire colour :wink:
 
#9 ·
ok something is up there is no grey and orange in that spot but there is a grey and orange wire on the 4th plug (outside right) and the connector/plug is not the same as in the pic.
the car is a 2 wheel drive 2.4 4cylinder manual trans and was manufactured september/2000 which makes it 2001 I believe.
 
#10 ·
ok something is up
Your right....that diagram is wrong.

According to my Bosch software the fuel pump relay control wire is on terminal 8 of the connector and it also shows a different connector pinout too....see below. Sorry, the Bosch diagrams don't give you the wire colours but I'd assume Hyundai at least got that bit of info correct.

PCM CONNECTOR viewed from terminal side
 

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#12 ·
well it looks like the wire for terminal 8 is a yellow wire with real light black dashes and when i do a continuity test from the plug under the fuse box under the hood to the other end at the ecm there is none, so i guess i solder in a jumper and shrink tube it?
 
#16 ·
Hickman, what you found is correct, the diagram I posted is for A/T, sorry for the mistake. The diagram I just posted is for M/T.
The orange with black stripe wire from Pin#6 of the connector E/R-F at the Compartment Junction Block goes to ECM connector C22-1 Pin#8, hope this will clear all the confusions.
 

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#15 ·
No, that sounds like the EGR control solenoid that is wired to pin 6.

Are you sure your looking at the correct terminal. Notice that the diagram is looking into the PCM side of the connector. If your looking into the wire side you'll be looking at a mirror image of the diagram. I've flipped the diagram in photoshop so the new attachment is looking into the wire side of the connector while it's still plugged into the PCM.

 

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#17 ·
ok what i have is a grey wire with a couple light black dashes on pin #8 of the plug for the ecm (pic3) and it runs to a plug that plugs into the fuse block under the hood( pic2) and when i test from the relay socket in the fuse block under the hood after putting the plug back in (pic1) to the ecm plug pin#8 (pic3) it shows excellent continuity. so would that mean something wrong with the board in the fuse block under the hood? i have also included a pic of they way they had it jumperd to get the fuel pump to run (pic4) they have it jumped from the 12v with key on second from top connection in the relay socket to the bottom right connection of the of the relay socket. sorry if i have made it sound confusing.heheh
 

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#19 ·
yikes, that would be make sure the wire on terminal 8 switches to ground when you crank the engine then returns to an open circuit shortly after the engine stops cranking? is there a tutorial somewhere on performing that test? Ive never done that before
 
#20 ·
It's way too simple to need a tutorial. Take your voltmeter and connect the red probe to a 12V power supply and back probe the black probe into the wire on terminal 8 (PCM connected). When you first switch the ignition on you should get 12V on the meter for approx 2 seconds (fuel rail prime). Now crank the engine while monitoring the voltmeter. If the relay driver is OK the meter will show approx 9V while the engine is cranking. When you release the key from the crank position the meter should show 12V briefly before the voltage switches off.
 
#28 ·
To be honest, I don't see any problems running it with the relay bypassed. I personally wouldn't spend the money for a replacement PCM on a 2001 car. Not when it's running OK at least. You might just end up creating more problems fitting an unknown PCM. I'm pretty sure the Santa Fe had an inertia switch on the fuel pump circuit so there isn't any safety issue bypassing the pump relay on your car.

AFAIK, on a USA car, you can just plug a used PCM in and go. Just make sure it comes from a car of the same spec as yours. If your car has ABS brakes, for example, the replacement PCM will need to have come from a car with ABS.
 
#29 ·
yea i was wondering about just leaving it bypassed but my son works for a major wrecking yard so a used pcm would be about 30 bucks. the abs was gonna be the next question, it has spots for abs fuses, but from reading it looks like they dont all have abs brakes, any way to tell if it has abs or not?
 
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