Washer Pump Problem

Dirty Bob,

We never know how much to appreciate a good
windshield washer until the roads get gnasty. I suppose the
most important thing to do is look at how the washer pump
works. It is a simple DC motor that is bi-directional. One
direction pressurizes the front washer outlets and the other
direction pressurizes the rear washer outlet. The direction
is determined by the multi-function switch. I have attached
a schematic diagram for use in your troubleshooting, it is
the front washer system.
Assuming the pump reservoir has plenty of juice and
that neither the front or rear washer functions work, the
most likely cause is the pump motor located at the
bottom of the reservoir. You can get at the bottom of
the reservoir by removing a couple of metal screws in
the lower part of the passenger front wheel well. You
may need to remove a plastic push pin mid-way up the
splash guard in the wheel well to bend the splash guard
enough to get at the electrical connector on the pump.
If you can get at the connector to verify the presence
or lack of control voltage you will be able to determine
whether or not the pump is faulty or the wiring to it has
an issue. This can be a bit awkward as you have to
bend the plastic bumper/wheel well shield to get at the
pump and connector, most uncomfortable and a bit
risky.
In order to get at the reservoir and pump unit to take
it out and have full access to it, you need to take off the
front bumper cover! Yes, the designers didn't make this
vehicle for the DIY mechanic. Gone are the days of
removing and replacing high failure items like washer
pumps. Once the bumper cover is off, you will have full
access to the washer reservoir and pump units. I know
this as I had to remove this large bumper cover to get at
the AC components when I replaced them.
First, let's make sure my assumptions shown earlier
are right. Is there plenty of fluid? Can you hear the
pump wind up when you energize it? Might need to have
your helper actuate the washer system while you listen
for the pump to actuate. Do this test with the engine off
and the key in the run position, less distraction. If you
don't hear the motor run, you will need to start chasing
faulty components, pump, connectors, wire harnesses,
multi function switch, you will see all the interacting
components on the attached schematic. Make sure to
test the rear washer also, you might get lucky and have a
plug in a feeder hose, most likely not, but you never
know.
If the pump is silent and you think it has given up the
ghost, you might want to just R&R it. That will mean
taking off the front bumper cover. If you do that, you
should get some plastic push pins in advance because
you will destroy some of them removing the bumper
cover. Do your preliminary checks and hope you do not
have to take the bumper cover off, although it is not that
big a deal. It took me three hours the first time and one
hour the second time, I use caution as I disassemble
things now, the old "Bull in the china closet" days are no
more for me, too costly.... Let us know the results of
your engine off testing and we can move forward from
there.

Best regards,
Paul

 

Do simple things first,find the fuse for that pump.If it works,than You need to flush really good all guts of the system,including end holes of the jets.They clog sometimes.

 

if the wipers move the fuse is good - if front and rear not spray, its proabaly the pump

 

Bumper Cover Fasteners

Bob,

Should you decide to remove the bumper cover,
you will encounter roughly 15 plastic fasteners that hold
the cover on the vehicle. I destroyed about half the
fasteners I removed, they were old and brittle.
Take a look at the link below and note the cost for
a pack of 10. I have attached a couple of photo's so you
can see what you will get.

detail KSPEC KDM Performance Center

These fasteners will cost anywhere from 1.25 to 2.00
each on E-Bay or from the dealer. The parts I bought
from KSPEC are Hyundai OEM and they were .50
each. I was so impressed that I bought an extra pack
for future use. There is one drawback, it takes about
6 weeks to arrive after you order them. They are sent
via mail from Korea.

I do not work for them, just am so pleased with the
product I feel compelled to share a quality product.
Even if you don't remove the bumper cover, someday
you will need to and having those fasteners is a real good
idea, in my opinion.

Good luck with the pump repair,

Paul

 

I replaced my pump this summer. The bumper cover stays on unless you are replacing the reservoir (which shouldn't need to get done). Take the wheel off. The wheel tub can be loosened as in the first reply, then pry the plastic apart and the pump is visible. You might get a bit wet when you pull the pump, the reservoir will drain when you wiggle the pump off. I'm assuming you have a rear washer so make sure you get the right pump. I got mine off eBay and it was a Hyundai OEM part and all you do is unplug electrical, wiggle it out of the reservoir, unplug the 2 hoses, and put the new part in. Don't reverse the two little hoses that feed the front & rear.

Initially I thought I had clogged nozzles. After air flushes and fine wires to probe the sprayers, I gave up and bought the pump. Worked great.

This is a half-hour job if you are prepared. If you have a lot of mud or whatever in the wheel well, spray it out first away from where you are working.

Bruce

 

Paul,
Do you find your schematics through a google search or is there a specific place you go to get them?
John

 

Hyundai Data

Hi John,

Back when HMA was a free site, I used it faithfully.
Now that it is a pay for use, I avoid it like the plague. I
work in a library in Wichita and we have a free service
that card holders can use from home. It is so-so as far
as reliable and thorough.

My first database of choice is in the Kansas City
Public Library. Quite close to you I would think... They
have two sources you can use, one is only available in
the library work stations and the other is for home use.
Home users can access the "Chilton's" data base for auto
repair. I have noticed that the data is the same as that
was available at the HMA site. The Chilton indexing is
quite challenging, but I think I figured out how to navigate
through it.

I recently broke down and bought an '06 Electrical
Troubleshooting Manual for my Santa Fe on Ebay for
$18 shipped to the house. That is my first
recommendation to anyone who will listen. The Hyundai
schematics are a little different than most vehicles, but
you can figure them out with some study. Most of what
I attach iin my forum posts come from the KC library.
Just get a card and use the internet to keep from
having to chase schematics around, you can even get at
pictures of components that are worth a thousand words.
Take a look at the following link and check out the
Chilton's database when you get your card. This type of
data are available all over the US if you know where to
go to get it. Know that your tax dollars are making it
available at your local library.

If you need a particular schematic, drop me a PM and
I'll reply with an attachment in the form of a PDF.

The Kansas City Public Library Catalog Search. Less Searching. More Reading.

Look under "Research Resources" for databases. The
drop down menu will take you to an alphabetical listing
of all the free databases you can dig into. Good stuff.
Oh, the in library auto database is "ALLDATA" FYI

Good luck in your DIY efforts and "Go Royals"!!!!

Paul

 

Thanks everyone
George in California