Below are the freeze frame results from the P0430 dtc that set my check engine lite on. Anything/everything point to a sure cat replacement? No doubt my scanner is a lot smarter than it's operator. Vehicle runs just fine, gas mileage is around 18mpg. Just don't want to replace a cat if it's not the problem.
2005 Santa Fe
2.7L 4WD
Mileage 107830
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******* 5/12/2013 3:00:30 PM *******
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Freeze Frame DTC: P0430
DTC Explanation:
P0430 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
Sensors:
Fuel System Status: S1: Closed Loop; S2: Closed Loop
Calculated Load: 41.6%
Engine Coolant Temp: 181.4 deg F
Fuel Trim B1 ST: 3.1%
Fuel Trim B1 LT: -7.8%
Fuel Trim B2 ST: 0.8%
Fuel Trim B2 LT: 0.0%
Engine RPM: 2006 RPM
Vehicle Speed: 79 km/h 49.1 MPH
Ignition Timing: 28.5 deg
Intake Air Temp: 91.4 deg F
MAF Air Flow Rate: 25.11 gm/sec
Throttle Pos Sensor: 17.3%
Do you have to go through emissions? If not, save your money and clear the DTC. chances are the light will come back on though. Lucky you it's bank 2 and not bank 1, so it's a bit easier to change out.
Hook up GDS and go to engine current data, watch the S1 and S2 signals in GRAPH MODE,, if they mirror each other, the ceramic brick is not doing it' job.. drive it all you want if Emission test not required for vehicle registration.
You have the answer here. It's the best way to check the cat for efficiency.
You need the tools to do the job in this day and age, so find a man with the tools.
If your cat is knackered, it's knackered. No problem except for emissions laws.
There are no emissions testing in my area so that's not an issue. Just wonder if any damage is being done or if the fuel mileage would be better with a new cat on that bank. It would have to increase a bunch to justify the cost. As for S1 and S2, they do not mirror each other. As I recall S2 goes up and down while S1 remains pretty constant. I turned off the check engine lite some 800 miles ago and ran a tank of Sea Foam treated gas thru it. Thought that had taken care of the problem, but I guess it didn't. Sure it didn't hurt anything though. Shouldn't my fuel trim values be similar to those of Bank 1?
Hey prybar3.. here's an idea for you. Get a spark plug 'non-fouler' adapter and screw it into the pipe and then screw the O2 sensor into the adapter. The cat is probably ok, but if they get below 95% effeciency, the sensor shows it and your CEL turns on. I used this on my '98 Lincoln and no more CEL. Should work on your Santa Fe as well. I had to drill out the hole in the adapter a little so the sensor would fit, but the threads are a perfect match. If unsure, take a plug with you. Hope this little trick solves your CEL worries! ;-)
oh.. here's a pic Spark Plug Non-Fouler | AutoZone.com
They're available at most any auto parts store.
The light comes on every year for I.
believe its the fuel you use.
I travel between states, like the light will be on
When I'm in Nevada, yet I goto California it will turn off.
Most states have poor fuel laws and requirements.
If i use high grade fuel, and a bottle of Cataclean in nNevada
The light just goes away drop back down to low grade it turns on.
California is strict and there fuel is pricey, but once i get around
a half of a tank the light goes off.
I've been through it since 2013.
Go find a video on youtube by Scotty Kilmer called Fixing Bad Catalytic Converters with Inefficiency Code P0420. He runs a gallon of pure lacquer thinner to 10 gallons of gas to clean the cat.
in many modern engine management systems, they utilize mutliple 02 sensors. the ones farther down the system usually just monitor cat efficiency. the ones closer to the block are used to determine fueling in certain open loop situations (idling, light throttle). if the sensor that manages open loop fueling goes, you have to replace it. the other one (or two)? ****'em.
I have the same fault code, except I've experienced a decrease in gas mileage, so I assume my CAT is clogged? It's had several misfire issues in the past where plug wires on bank 2 burned out. Over 200,000 miles and its the original CAT and exhaust, including O2 sensors.
Is there an alternative to a $300+ CAT replacement?
Yeah, take the CAT off and run a big, long masonry drill through it in several places :surprise:
That won't get rid of the code but it'll improve the MPG if it's being pulled down by a blocked CAT.
In a nutshell what the first O2 sensor does is measure the temp of the exhaust and set your fuel trim (rich/lean).
The second O2 sensor measures temp as well but the smog circuit (CEL) basically compares the readings of O2 sensor1 vs O2 sensor2 looking for a temperature difference indicating the cat is working.
You could have a bad O2 sensor and if passing smog is a problem I would change that first then try the antifoul extension then the cat.
No smog requirements here, my concern is the gas mileage drop. I wouldn't expect that with a bad O2 sensor, so based on the past misfires and poor mileage, I'm thinking I'm forced into a CAT replacement. I wish they had after market headers without CAT for none smog testing areas!
Masonry bit not really for steel , but honey comb probably not that hard so should work.
You will have permanent light on dash with that solution. Some times wreckers will have used units, going bolted flange to flange makes it not that difficult.
You've obviously never attacked a CAT with a drill or you would know the honeycomb isn't made of steel. It's made of rock. Well, some sort of ceramic material anyway. But a masonry drill seemed the most appropriate tool for the job :laugh:
Don't know if it is the same, but I had that code on my 1996 lexus and it turned out to be a leak in the flange on one of the rear cat flanges. You could hear the leak and actually feel the leak if you put it up on jacks and just run the engine. It is a simple fix if it is a leak as you can patch it with liquid steel exhaust patch.
Put it up on a lift and inspected the pipe. It's solid all the way through and I've never cracked the flanges. I'm thinking a new drill bit is on my shopping list...>
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